I just finished rebuilding the water pump and fitting new Clutch O-ring seals.

I had a dragging clutch that stalled the bike in 1st but was OK ish in 2nd and Higher.

The gearbox oil was creamy and was replaced with Motul.

I changed the two O-ring seals on the clutch piston sleeve as well ( the old ones were a bit ruffff !

I have put it all back together and bled the clutch ( Coated the Garage ceiling with fluid when pressure bleeding !! )

The oil is now fine with no water ingress but the clutch still drags ?!

I filled up the slave cylinder (in the clutch cover) and bled it back to the nipple then fitted the cover and preasure bled the rest of the system.

Does anyone have any further advice on bleeding before I take it all apart again with a view to measuring and replacing the clutch ?

Thanks in advance

JonH.

Is it the plates? See previous threads?

Your kiddin ??? The plates are out of tolerance and more than likely you need to add to the thickness to bring the clutch pack back into spec....This happens on every PRO since the beginning.......

Madmax, we had the same problem on our 200, we changed all of the 'o' rings but it didn't help with the clutch drag. Dabster is probably right, what happens to every pro clutch since the beginning is that the fibre plates absorb oil over time and increase in thickness. Gas Gas UK offer alternative thinner steel 'divider' plates in the clutch pack but you will need to measure your current clutch pack depth using a vernier caliper as per the Gas Gas USA website (link from Gas Gas UK) and order the relevant plates. An 02 pro clutch we measured had a clutch pack almost 3mm over tolerance.

As far as bleeding goes, even reverse bleeding can leave air pockets in the system, if you have got most of the air out by reverse bleeding try locking the bleed nipple and slowly pumping the lever a few times. Then hold it against the bars and loosen the nipple allowing the pressurised fluid to escape, then retighten and repeat whilst keeping an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder. It'll take a few minutes but I guarantee you will see the odd air bubble in the escaping fluid. Also make sure the master cylinder plunger is not adjusted too far into the cylinder, back it off so you get the piston to its correct resting place when the lever is fully out.

Eiger.

is it an ajp clutch, when i bled mine on my gg, the piston inside the master cylinder got stuck. casing a permanant drag, once i got the piston unstuck, it was a little better.