Has anyone got any pictures of a widened swing arm that I can use to plan my alteration. I already have the original (wider) arm, but still have minimal clearance and hence want to make the alteration. Any advice gladly received.

Sorry no photo but word of warning - if you widen it too much it will get in the way of your boots. Mine was widened on the offside only and gives approx. 10mm gap between arm & tyre.

No problem there, I have boots the size of ships, so I have already widened my pegs.

Hi,

There are many mods available, I lengthened my s/a to give more clearance at the front, reduced the right hand side arm profile to give more tyre to arm clearance, offset the rim to the right to clear the chain ( this required cutting and rewelding the hub by 1/2 an inch) also fitted spacer between sprocket and hub, then offsetting engine to the left using spacers and "leaning" on fwd mount bracket.

Ray Small did the s/arm mods

"Wheelwise" the hub and wheel mods.

I dont have any pics sorry.

After all that expense I still fall off most of the time!

triton

Hi,

There are many mods available, I lengthened my s/a to give more clearance at the front, reduced the right hand side arm profile to give more tyre to arm clearance, offset the rim to the right to clear the chain ( this required cutting and rewelding the hub by 1/2 an inch) also fitted spacer between sprocket and hub, then offsetting engine to the left using spacers and "leaning" on fwd mount bracket.

Ray Small did the s/arm mods

"Wheelwise" the hub and wheel mods.

I dont have any pics sorry.

After all that expense I still fall off most of the time!

triton

I asked a question some time ago about putting a spacer between sprocket and hub, the general consensus was don't. What thickness did you use and were there and problems ?

there are a few things to consider if you space the sproket on the hub,

Firstly, the sprocket will rub on the lip on the brake plate.. you can reduce the size of the lip.. but that will reduce it's stifness

Secondly, the spocket is a good fit on the spigot on the hub, if you space the sprocket off the hub all the load is taken through the bolts. When I bought my bike the sprocket was mounted on spacer washers, as a result the cast lugs on the hub had cracked.

With careful measuring, in my experience..

you should be able to leave the engine in its origional position (avoiding problems with the exhaust and oil pipe manifolds),

no sprocket spacer,

build the wheel off to the right to provide chain to tyre clearance

widen the swinging arm on the right only.

Re spacer, I had thought about enlarging to holes in the sprocket and having bosses on the spacer that the sprocket then sits on. Hopefully this would transfer the load onto the spacer and then to the hub. Pity you cant get dished sprockets. All hypothetical as my hub died and is going to be replaced with a dished wheel. Clearance is not an issue on the right side of my B40.

Ross

i think this is how my swinging arm was modified by M Adams. could be wrong

Vinnie

That's an interesting idea, though only provides extra clearance on one side. I guess on off set wheel should sort that out.

I have a very friendly local fabricator and I dropped my swinging arm off to him today. He is going to take off about 1cm from the inside of both legs and weld in some flat steel onto the remaining tube. That way I will get an extra 2cm clearance and maintain the strength. We will see!

Re the sprocket spacer. I have one on my bike that sits between the hub and the sprocket (talon 66 tooth). This sprocket sits perfectly well with the hub without any issues.

unless you are going to move the engine over to the left by about 30 mm you really do not need to widen the left leg.

Alan, The engine is already moved over. My last weekend riding in the mud has demonstrated an absolute necessity for gaining more clearance. The bike must have doubled in weight!