benp Posted February 8, 2009 Report Share Posted February 8, 2009 Hi there, Hoping somebody with a bit more of a clue can shed some light on my poor little 99 sherco. I bought it just before Christmas with a broken con rod and since then I have had the barrel re lined and new piston and rod fitted (along with new seals etc) I got the engine back last week and have now fitted it back in the bike. Before I wired it all up I thought I should fill the rad up. As I filled it up though, I noticed that the water was coming straight out of the base of the barrel. does this just mean that the nuts are not tight enough? or is it slightly larger and more problematic? either way do I now need to (or rather the shop) re strip the engine to check the sump for water? Any help gratefully received by an enthusiastic and keen wanna be ...... Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dabomb Posted February 8, 2009 Report Share Posted February 8, 2009 The nuts would have to be completly loose for it to leak,are you sure the gasket is clean,nothing stuck to it?Is there any damage round that area?,you say the conrod broke,check the area around the crankcase where it meets the barrel,could be cracked or something. Dont know about the sherco`s(even though i own one),but some earlier gassers have a nut to drain the crankcase. good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsnutterman Posted February 8, 2009 Report Share Posted February 8, 2009 Sounds like the engine builder is useless, I'd expect a professional engine builder to do a leak down test at the very least after rebuilding a engine, this would have shown that the base gasket is leaking. I guessing for the water to be leaking the cases must be miles out of alignment, not good! Do you really want them doing any more damage? In answer to your question no it doesn't just mean that the nuts are not tight enough. Yes the barrel will at a minimum need to come off to as you say check for water and the reason why it is leaking, as dabomb say check for damage from the broken conrod, I wouldn't be surprised that what ever cause the rod to break caused other problems too, it may have possibly bent the cases for example. There isn't a drain on the cases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 Water does not normally circulate through the base gasket. possibly the cylinder is cracked???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsnutterman Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 I though you were supposed to be a Sherco expert. You can probably tell us what the holes are for then on the front of the base gasket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dabomb Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 I though you were supposed to be a Sherco expert. You can probably tell us what the holes are for then on the front of the base gasket? Dont upset him,he has a mind full of usefull tips and info!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benp Posted February 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 (edited) Thanks all for help so far, just to update...... I have spoken to the shop. Now lifted barrel, but on prior inspection there seemed to be a gap on the front right hand side. The bolts were not overly tight. There was a small piece of sealant (?) protruding from the engine casing (not sure if this would be enough to cause the problem?) and there is no visible damage. Before going any further, having removed the sealant, I have replaced the barrel and tightened the nuts starting with the one the gap was on previously. This looked a lot better with no visible gaps or day light. I've once again filled it with water which it held this time, so I guess problem solved? although I think I now need to loosen the barrel once more, remove it from the piston and check the crank casing for water from the first mishap, clean, and rebuild once more with a new gasket? Would that be the suggested way forward? Thanks again, fingers crossed..................... Edited February 9, 2009 by BenP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsnutterman Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 If you take the barrel off again put a steel rule on edge across where the cases join together and look for a gap (or use feeler guages if you have them) between the case and rule hopefully there won't be one, if there is lets us know? The sealant may be the seal that is impregnated in to the gasket around the two coolant holes to stop the water leaking, if it is I would definitely put a new gasket in. If you've got the engine out tip it upside down to check that no water has got in with the barrel off obviously, rotate it forward so if there is any water it won't go into the bearings and it will stop any water from the coolant passages going in to the cases. The barrel should be tighten down using a torque wrench ideally to 2 kg.m, 19.62Nm (14.47ft lb) so it's not very tight i.e. don't go swinging on the spanner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsnutterman Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 Dont upset him,he has a mind full of usefull tips and info!!!! I wasn't trying to upset him, sorry if it has! I guess he was thinking of a gasgas engine as they don't have a coolant passage through the base gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 10, 2009 Report Share Posted February 10, 2009 Yep, as you stated, I had to check! Stand corrected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biffsgasgas Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Why would sherco put a water passage through the base gasket? Is the water pump inlet or outlet cast into the lower case half? I guess a close look at one would probably explain that to me. I'm just afraid of catching something.... I know that one of the case half bolts on shercos are used to drain oil. Does a case half bolt go into the bottom end on a sherco? A lot of 2 strokes out there have acess to the bottom end for pressurization and checks of the crank seals. This may save you the hassle of removing the jug again if you haven't already. --Biff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Why would sherco put a water passage through the base gasket? Is the water pump inlet or outlet cast into the lower case half? I guess a close look at one would probably explain that to me. I'm just afraid of catching something.... I know that one of the case half bolts on shercos are used to drain oil. Does a case half bolt go into the bottom end on a sherco? A lot of 2 strokes out there have acess to the bottom end for pressurization and checks of the crank seals. This may save you the hassle of removing the jug again if you haven't already. --Biff Yes Biff, this is the case, and somewhat similar to others I think, with the exception of the Gasser Pro which I had stuck in mind at time of brainfart!(beerfart) You are correct about draining the gearbox, but as far as draining the crankcase, easiest way I know would be to remove the rear mudguard and flip the bike. OR insert a small tube and apply suction, as there may be room for that. One would need the vacume pump! I have all this stuff, many do not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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