May 21, 200917 yr Got a holder!What oil should be used? is 10w 40 semi synth ok? All personal pref I think! I have tried some variety, but the factory spec states 10-40? 10-40what? Others have used anything from cheap ATF for a quicker clutch action, to 20-50 for smoother clutch action. The specialty gear oils are another option, PJ1, IPONE, Elf and such. Honda and Yam each have their own gear oils. I think in there somewhere you may have stated that you had noticed some drag on the clutch when disengaged? It may need some new plates as well soon still. FYI, I have been running the Merc spec full synthetic ATF of late. Seems OK, without too much cold stick problem.
May 21, 200917 yr Author All personal pref I think! I have tried some variety, but the factory spec states 10-40? 10-40what? Others have used anything from cheap ATF for a quicker clutch action, to 20-50 for smoother clutch action. The specialty gear oils are another option, PJ1, IPONE, Elf and such. Honda and Yam each have their own gear oils. I think in there somewhere you may have stated that you had noticed some drag on the clutch when disengaged? It may need some new plates as well soon still. FYI, I have been running the Merc spec full synthetic ATF of late. Seems OK, without too much cold stick problem. Right thats fine, got loads of the stuff, factory oil has always felt good for me, pretty responsive! how much? Factory spec is 440? Can you variate this for lighter feel atall? As for the drag, I dont think its down to plates, the bike aint really that old, maybe six months? I suspect it was to do with the nut, because when she came to the end of the shaft there was no clutch atall! The drag came on pretty suddenly, from there being no difference between neutral and the clutch in, to having to put all your weight behind to push it! Update: Cant get the ******* thing back together, the roller bearing wont fit onto the release pin far enough to allow the outer plate to fit on? how the hell? Update two: Found the cause of above problem, the rod that runs down the shaft to the hydraulic actuator thingy on the other side of the bike wont go far enough down the shaft, its about 7mm off the needed posistion, im thinking, as the levers solid that the pressure needs released, undo the bleed nipple? Edited May 21, 200917 yr by shercoman2k8
May 22, 200917 yr Right thats fine, got loads of the stuff, factory oil has always felt good for me, pretty responsive! how much? Factory spec is 440? Can you variate this for lighter feel atall?As for the drag, I dont think its down to plates, the bike aint really that old, maybe six months? I suspect it was to do with the nut, because when she came to the end of the shaft there was no clutch atall! The drag came on pretty suddenly, from there being no difference between neutral and the clutch in, to having to put all your weight behind to push it! Update: Cant get the ******* thing back together, the roller bearing wont fit onto the release pin far enough to allow the outer plate to fit on? how the hell? Update two: Found the cause of above problem, the rod that runs down the shaft to the hydraulic actuator thingy on the other side of the bike wont go far enough down the shaft, its about 7mm off the needed posistion, im thinking, as the levers solid that the pressure needs released, undo the bleed nipple? Ok then, we use 450ml on a drain and fill for the things. 10ml makes little difference, but you will not alter the clutch feel with the quantity, only the grade or thickness(viscosity) will change that, or the additives in the fluid that may alter the frictional properties. If the plates were fine up untill the recent event, then they are probably still ok. That rod should push back into the slave cilynder under some light pressure,"IF" your clutch lever adjuster screw is set to allow a full return in the master cilynder piston, which then opens the return port so the fluid can flow back up to the resivoir, as these always need just a bit of slack so they can work properly. Should be no need to crack bleeder and or possibly induce air into the system. Or you could remove the two retaining screws on the slave cyl, and push the piston back in manually, but fact one still applies.
May 22, 200917 yr Author Everythings back together, now I have no drive? almost as if the clutch is pulled to the bar? What now?
May 22, 200917 yr Hows the lever feel, does it have the normal resistance or feel disconnected? Might pay to pull cover & pressure plate off to check if push rod is returning fully & is seated inside end piece that forces pressure plate open as thats only thing that would give full slip as stuffed plates still grip a little Shouldn't take too long to check
May 22, 200917 yr Author Thats all fine, was told to bleed it? Although the lever feels fine! Level in the master cyl was low, and the bikes been on its side for the past week! Any tips on quick bleeding?
May 22, 200917 yr Get master cylinder at highest point & use small pulls to see if any air comes up line, have heard that putting cable tie around lever & bars overnight with lever partly back can help. Otherwise best method is to fill from the slave cylinder with a syringe & tube- messy tho
May 23, 200917 yr Ok, just crack the bleeder on the slave cyl briefly to see if fluid spurts out and your drive returns, then shut it off just as quick. Did you get the rod to return? did you check the lever pin adjuster? Or did you just cram it all back in?
May 23, 200917 yr Author Wound the lever pin adjuster right out, removed the slave from the bike and reset it manually, will try bleeding later... the midges got a bit much last night!
May 23, 200917 yr Author Sorted guys, thanks for all the help! the final problem was easily sorted... The nut had come loose, again! Now tightened upto 50lb ft instead of 45, and held on with a load of loctite!
May 24, 200917 yr B*****ks, those things do not normally come off by themselves especially that quickly! Tell us what you really did wrong? I know you fingered something, it is OK, we all learn that way! You see, now you know, and are almost a pro! maybe?
May 24, 200917 yr Author You got me, okay Was reading the wrong side of the torque wrench Edited May 24, 200917 yr by shercoman2k8
May 25, 200917 yr Well done then, now you also know to pay careful attention to the scales on ANY calibrated unit! AND if you must perform a conversion from metric or to some other form of measure, double check ! ALWAYS! I hope you used the blue locktite!
May 25, 200917 yr Author I'd checked and double checked, then turned it ound and realised it wasnt set properly Blue loctite and 'sticks like ****' mixture, nut will not be coming loose anytime soon! Edited May 25, 200917 yr by shercoman2k8
May 27, 200917 yr Aye, good lad! You are now ready to proprely review all the other material on the RYP site IN DEPTH! and make sense of it all in your head! A firm understanding on just how things work is a big plus! You have passed the test! With a B, should give you a C for lyeing!
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