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Txt270 Workshop Manual


scotty97
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Does anyone know where i can get a WORKSHOP manual for a 1999 txt270. the front forks on my bike seem a little soft and could do with a bit more rebound, but i wanted to change the fork oil before playing with the adjusters to get it set up for my weight and style. or could someone who has done this write me a small procedure including the amount of oil to put back in, and where you fill them too. any help would be great.

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Incidentally, a few days ago, I've changed springs, oil seals an oil on my TXT. You must blow old oil by means little caps on the bottom part of bottles. You must fill in with 300 cc (SAE 5 in my case) removing the upper caps.

Here you are some pictures of the work:

Fork parts:

0feda344.jpg

Removing oil seals:

51eea007.jpg

d0239496.jpg

8dfe7fdb.jpg

Refilling with new oil:

03c19899.jpg

I hope these images can help you.

Saludos

Edited by mecajental
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Does anyone know where i can get a WORKSHOP manual for a 1999 txt270. the front forks on my bike seem a little soft and could do with a bit more rebound, but i wanted to change the fork oil before playing with the adjusters to get it set up for my weight and style. or could someone who has done this write me a small procedure including the amount of oil to put back in, and where you fill them too. any help would be great.

You can probably accomplish both extra rebound and more preload without taking the forks completely apart (the 99' has a removable collar so it's a little different to work with than the newer types).

Remove the forks from the bike, but before starting, loosen the top tripleclamp capscrews and carefully back off the top caps a little to make them easier to remove later (the topcaps use an o-ring to seal and should only be snug, the clamping action of the top tripleclamps will make sure they do not back off any).

Hold the topcap and unscrew the upper tube, collapsing it into the bottom leg and drain and flush the forks and let dry out.

To change the preload bushing (it's usually a grey PVC tube on the top of the spring) pull down on the spring, which will allow the preload bushing to drop down and you'll see a jamnut under the topcap. Slide an openend wrench on that (you can release the pressure on the spring then) and then loosen the topcap a little. You'll then want to unscrew the topcap off the damper rod, but pull down on the spring a little so when the topcap seperates from the rod it does not go flying off. You'll then be able to slide off the PVC spacer.

You'll want to make another spacer about 5-8mm longer to replace the one you took off (it's called "Schedule 40 PVC pipe", which has thick walls and you can get it at a hardware store) and reassemble the damper/spring assembly.

The forks take 300cc's of 5-weight fork oil. Since you want a little more rebound, use a 7.5 or 10 weight fork oil in the right leg, which houses the rebound cartridge. Usually the best way to add the oil is to collapse the upper tube down, tilt the fork leg a little and slowly dribble the oil in between the spring coils.

Whenever you stiffen the spring in a fork, you provide more compression resistance but reduce the rebound resistance (damping effeciency is reduced), so you may want to back the topcap compression adjuster (left fork) all the way out and screw the rebound adjuster (right fork) all the way in, and LIGHTLY bottomed out (most riders find the GasGas forks work well with the compression full off and the rebound full on). Just about all damping adjusters on any suspension components that use a needle/orifice are somewhat fragile so handle them with a light touch.

Clean the insides of the tripleclamps, reassemble the tubes in the clamps (the capscrews go about 15-18 ft lbs torque, and use anti-seize on the threads). Start tightening with the top tripleclamp bolts, push on the forks to center them, tighten the lower tripleclamps bolts (alternating the bolts so as to tighten them evenly), center forks again, tighten axle, center forks, tighten axle capscrews ( only about 6-8 ft lbs and use anti-seize) and them install the fork brace last.

I think that covers the high points and others will fill in the gaps.

Cheers.

Jon

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i think the 98 has the 3 bit forks and the need for the C spanner, but the 99 doesnt...? correct me if i'm wrong, there's a video on youtube detailing the strip down of the 99 forks. some old guy and beard? gasgas something or rather?

i'm gonna freshen mine up soon and up thw weight, but first will try that clickers trick as at the mo my comp is fully in, the rebound wouldnt move i dont think...

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