dickielumpkin Posted July 1, 2009 Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 Hello My son has a 2002 250 in pretty good nick apart from the clutch...whatever we try it seems to operate like an on/off switch. The plates have been cleaned, springs are good and adjusted properly, hydraulics are properly bled.... anyone got any suggestions? Many Thanks....Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laser1 Posted July 1, 2009 Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 (edited) What are you using for clutch lube? Some (like ATF-F) can be pretty grabby. Also - you can take 2 opposing springs out (250cc) if the clutch is in otherwise good shape and it will help make it much more progressive. I have seen were some recomend different levers as well, but have not heard of good results with that. Edited July 1, 2009 by laser1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobtlr Posted July 1, 2009 Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 hey i have the same on my 3.2 (only a problem when slippery conditions) i have noticed there are different slave clutch cylinders for sale for the beta 270, as the item looks like the one on the sherco mayby it wil fit on a sherco to? i don't know where they are for sale i know 2 people thet have them on there bikes so i'll infrom where they got it. regards bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted July 1, 2009 Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 Removing two of the springs worked on my mates rev3, makes the clutch really light and really nice to use but will slip on a big high gear climb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 2, 2009 Report Share Posted July 2, 2009 The shortie levers do have a longer mechanical advantage to the sweet spot on the lever, making them more progressive. Some have reported good success running the 15-50 wt oil in the box to slow the clutch a bit. I have been running the -2 springs, as I like the light lever feel, yet it seems as though one must revert back to the light ATF to get a full engagement POP when you want it. This setup seems to waver a bit depending upon how hard and fast one dumps the clutch, all a tradeoff. The thicker oil just seems too slow with -2, very smooth but slow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted July 2, 2009 Report Share Posted July 2, 2009 I was actually quite impressed how the Pro Gasser clutch is put together and how you can alter the speed/lightness of it by swapping the steel plates for thinner or thicker ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geebee Posted July 2, 2009 Report Share Posted July 2, 2009 Hi Have you tried dressing the slots in the clutch basket and the grooves in the clutch hub where the clutch plates and metal plates rise and fall when the clutch is operated. The wear on these items can cause the clutch to stick. Regards Geebee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laser1 Posted July 2, 2009 Report Share Posted July 2, 2009 The shortie levers do have a longer mechanical advantage to the sweet spot on the lever, making them more progressive. Some have reported good success running the 15-50 wt oil in the box to slow the clutch a bit. I have been running the -2 springs, as I like the light lever feel, yet it seems as though one must revert back to the light ATF to get a full engagement POP when you want it. This setup seems to waver a bit depending upon how hard and fast one dumps the clutch, all a tradeoff. The thicker oil just seems too slow with -2, very smooth but slow. Couple of buddies on Shercos tried ARC levers and they didnt seem to get much effect - not enough for them, maybe a better rider would notice the difference. Do you just use shorties? I know exactly what you mean on the slower enguagement on the -2 springs and different fluids. I have recently switched to a lighter spring on my Pro and found the same thing. Like you said - tradeoffs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1oldbanjo Posted July 2, 2009 Report Share Posted July 2, 2009 (edited) I just wanted to mention this - I have not tried this method on any bike but did read about it 6 months ago in a road test I found on the internet. A magazine was testing a trials bike that had a Yamaha or Honda engine in it and found the clutch to be too aggressive. The factory mechanic took the case cover off, took out the springs and a metal plate and put a small 1mm bend in one of the metal plates. The bike was then put back together and the clutch feel was vastly improved according to the magazine article. I don't know if this is a good method of solving this problem - or if it should only be used in an emergency to solve a problem in a hurry. I have also heard that lightly bead blasting the metal plates will help to solve the problem of clutches that will not release - and it may help on clutches that are too grabby. On my Sherco 2.9 the clutch got so it would not release after the bike sat overnight, and I lightly sanded the metal plates to remove the shine and the clutch worked great afterwords. Edited July 2, 2009 by 1oldbanjo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 3, 2009 Report Share Posted July 3, 2009 I was actually quite impressed how the Pro Gasser clutch is put together and how you can alter the speed/lightness of it by swapping the steel plates for thinner or thicker ones Now an expert at the 99 pieces! Get you one! How do you like them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 3, 2009 Report Share Posted July 3, 2009 I just wanted to mention this - I have not tried this method on any bike but did read about it 6 months ago in a road test I found on the internet. A magazine was testing a trials bike that had a Yamaha or Honda engine in it and found the clutch to be too aggressive. The factory mechanic took the case cover off, took out the springs and a metal plate and put a small 1mm bend in one of the metal plates. The bike was then put back together and the clutch feel was vastly improved according to the magazine article.I don't know if this is a good method of solving this problem - or if it should only be used in an emergency to solve a problem in a hurry. I have also heard that lightly bead blasting the metal plates will help to solve the problem of clutches that will not release - and it may help on clutches that are too grabby. On my Sherco 2.9 the clutch got so it would not release after the bike sat overnight, and I lightly sanded the metal plates to remove the shine and the clutch worked great afterwords. Doubt I would attempt anything that radical. Scuffing may well inhibit any cold sticking, yet I have found this even minimal with the light oil. The thicker oils are naturally going to be more difficult to break the surface tension on the plates when cold. Still always probably best to rock the bike in 4 or 5 gear with clutch pulled before startup till things rotate freely. Otherwise and even so, be sure one is pointed in a safe direction prior to placing into gear. Always bee safe with them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted July 3, 2009 Report Share Posted July 3, 2009 To be honest , I never recalled anyone complaining about the clutches being too snatchy prior to '06. Although I do think the pro riders did complain that the clutch was too slow for them and some mods were done on their bikes, yet I have no real details. I never minded the older ones, with short levers. With the '06 bike, comments were made from some about the snatchiness! And I am not totally sure what changed, other than I suspect there was a change in the springs, yet I am not totally sure because I have no real good way to measure the rates on them. And as I no longer have the older version, I have no way of comparing the plates themselves. So we have what we have, and it is still up to the driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted July 3, 2009 Report Share Posted July 3, 2009 Couple of buddies on Shercos tried ARC levers and they didnt seem to get much effect - not enough for them, maybe a better rider would notice the difference. Do you just use shorties? I know exactly what you mean on the slower enguagement on the -2 springs and different fluids. I have recently switched to a lighter spring on my Pro and found the same thing. Like you said - tradeoffs. I've had ARC levers on my bikes for a few years, they're pretty similar in shape & length to the original mid-length ones. Had to alter the pivot position for the clutch by opening up the hole in the right place then sleeving back to get the pin to push central to the piston Main reason for running them is not to alter action but to keep crash costs down & they've definately paid for themselves many times over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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