July 16, 200917 yr I'm looking to adjust the timing since it's a hard starter once warmed up. It has a Leonelli flywheel set, the technical manual (Wayne's) says 3mm piston movement before TDC for standard timing adjustment. I don't have a suitable dial to check this and I don't find nowhere the degrees that go with this 3mm. Who knows how much degrees pre ignition is needed for being standard? I do have a formula to calculate the degrees TDC from the conrod length, stroke and piston displacement. But I don't have the conrod lenght and stroke either? Who can tell? Also I found that my strobe isn't reacting when connecting the inductor clamp to the plug lead and the black and red connector to an external 12V battery. On my old 2T scooters this works fine.
July 16, 200917 yr Gday - a quick way to measure piston height is to make a tool from an old plug. Knock the porcelain out of the centre. Tap the remaining steel bit with a 10 mm tap and find a long bolt to fit in it. I grind the end of the bolt round so as to not damage anything. Then, you can screw it into the plug hole, GENTLY find TDC using the tool, and either measure or calculate 3mm in from there, set the piston to that and away you go. My tool uses 10 x 1.5 mm thread pitch so for me 3 mm equals 2 full turns in from TDC. I hope this makes sense. After you have found the correct spot once, put a mark on the flywheel to save time for next time. I just use pencil, it seems to stay there OK. Cheers, Stork
July 17, 200917 yr If yours is an '03 and still on the factory setting, they can kick back a lot and stall when chuggin' about at 3mm. If this is the case with yours, I would recommend you simply retard the back plate 3-4mm(counter CW) for a mid setting or 6-8mm for a mild setting. This will eliminate a lot of unneccessary number crunching that is totally irrelitive to the feel of the bike, for you. Easily done, easily changed. Just note the factory tic mark in the back plate and go from there.
July 17, 200917 yr If yours is an '03 and still on the factory setting, they can kick back a lot and stall when chuggin' about at 3mm. If this is the case with yours, I would recommend you simply retard the back plate 3-4mm(counter CW) for a mid setting or 6-8mm for a mild setting. This will eliminate a lot of unneccessary number crunching that is totally irrelitive to the feel of the bike, for you. Easily done, easily changed. Just note the factory tic mark in the back plate and go from there. Above is the Gospel according to Mark...just like he said:retard the timing and don't worry about the bike running poorly,that'll only happen when you rotate that stator plate to it's absolute extremities. Wayne (Copemech disciple)
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