kurt

the RC replacement motor MFA RE-540 specs say: RPM at 12.0v - 13360 at max efficiency, isn't that way to much to spin the fan? On sight I should say the cooling fan is 2000-3000 rpm

Part MT280226068, I suppose that is the in yellow part on the photo, no? I don't see how it can be avoided that the vertical bolt (red) don't touches the kick shaft when the kick assy is bolted t the shaft? That doesn't look as a good and solid fit to me, with this vertical bolt in between?

I'm aware good kick starting procedure is important, I also bring the piston first to compression with a few soft strokes on the kick, to then hit with all my weight. Mostly, with a warm up engine, is starts with 1 or 2 kicks. Maybe you some other good kickstarting tips to share? Last year I had to replace the kick, it was bent over the years in such way that your booth easily slipped off when kicking, but finally it broke at the turning point. And yes they are pricy.

Each time I maintain my trial motor I notice how some parts take a lot of extra time to clean or need early replacement. I use my GG 2007 as an example here, but newer models and also other makes are suffering the same issues. I'm sure other riders will have similar issues. It looks like that the manufactures are more concerned about the colour scheme of their next model than trying to handle these bad designs. I know this is delicate subject but I couldn't resist to ask for opinions. 1. airbox: very important to keep clean, but very time-consuming to do. What a joke is this 'valve' at the bottom? And the 2 studs inside that cover the screws of it? All these corners, the pole inside, inaccessible areas,.... makes it almost impossible to clean. The metal airfilter holder is not leakfree, just like the cover with the benji seal. And this transparent flap covering the filter, just because the top cover is leaky.... How hard can it be to make airbox leak free, accessible and easy to clean? 2. carb intake: for cleaning the airbox, I found best practice taking of the rear fender assy. But putting it back is a tricky job. It is not easy to get rubber hose completely over the carb inlet and at the same time keeping the 4 spring-nuts in place. 3 rear fender: why is it fixed with screws? One flip-over and the fender is broken. Why not using a sort of clip-on system? Some makes recently start to use a very soft, bendable fender now. 4 kick start: after some years it bends and/or brakes. And what about the fixing on the shaft? The bolt from the kick itselfs, sits in the way to get the fixing completely to the shaft with as result that the bolt on the shaft comes loose now and then. Not to mention the oil leak at the shaft itself. 5 rear linkage system after some years it is almost impossible to get it free of play, even with new parts. Some other issues are already taken care of, like the waterpump problems, fan, rear rim without spoke holes,... but I find it hard to believe that these design flaws, as I call them, still are there.

My last waterpump kit in a 2007 Pro lasted for about 4years with each month a run. Now oil getting milky. Also with the pump of (3 allen screws) water stil inside, I can see drops of coolingwater escape if I fiddle the shaft a bit. I'm wondering, can the double lip seal been mounted the wrong way? What is the correct position? The open end of the seal with the spring visble, facing the crank?

thanks for the replies, #wobblenorbed, any changes of a photo with the rubber in place mounted?

Recently I saw this part for sale suitable for most gasgas trials. I can't find this part on my 2007 model. Where is it situated? Is it rubber stop for the kick? As now it hits the foot peg hard each time on starting.

I'm still looking for a solution, to get a rear shock without play. Anyone an idea?

On my 2003 290 the frontbrake adjusting is screw is missing. I tried with the screw and spring from the clutch side but that seems to play in the threaded opening. I think this is also meant to fit a brake light? I then tried a M5 bolt but this one goes in for max 2 turns without forcing things. Also the end of the thread looks like the bolt should have a pin to go through the smaller end. Can it be it is a special thread or is it just a dirty M5? I don't like to damage the threath, who knows which adjustiing screw I need? Also the lens doesn't show anymore the oil level me think, or don't I see it?

There is some play on the top mount of the rear shock on my GasGas 300 2007. I notice this when lifting the bike at the rear end. See the photo, the top bushing or is it a silent bloc? Is this replaceable? How does stock these parts? Easy to do, or do I need a hydraulic press?

thanks for allthe usefull tips guys: @JSE: I do blow my jets the opposite way, I have lines on the vents, but I was not thinking they may be a cause, you've got a point there, I gonna have an extra look at it. @Sting32: I'm not aware if fuel here in Belgium has alcohol/methanol in it or not. We can choose Oct 95 or 98, but non-alcohol..? I've never saw it avertising or hear people talking about it... so I guess it is always with? @baldilocks: Maybe I need to try to loosen the airfilterhose between the carb and filterbox to see if it has a good and close fitting there. I thought there 4 small screws there to undo together with a metal plate? The filter almost has now muck on it when cleaning after each day out. there is also the square transparant cover inside the airbox, which takes most of the muck leaking through the badly designed cover. But mostly I have to remove (4 screws) and waterjet clean the complete rear section to get it proper. When I clean the carb/jet I don't see any dirt or water in the bowl.

On My Gas Gas Raga 300 2007, I have the standard Keihin PWK carb. Since a year or more now I'm always having a blocked pilot jet after about a 2h ride. The throttle then starts to return slowly, well not the throttle actually but the revvings itself. When the engine start doing like that I know it's time to clean the carb again. I clean the air filter about each ride in filtercleaner, and oilspray it again. I have new one now installed. I checked the fuel and installed a fuel filter. But still the jet keeps blocking, if I hold again the light, nothing. After a pressure blow and even a poke with a copper wire it's clear again and I can look trough it. I think I see then not a straight clear hole like at the main jet but more like an effect view, is it a light prism effect or so? Maybe that's just because it's so small, size 40 I thought. Wat can be the reason of this frequent blocking?

My 300 Raga is also a pig to start. It helps using the techniques suggested here, but still it's no fun to do especially when not on solid ground. What else you can have a look at is the position of the kick on the axle, I fiexed it in a rather a forward position (in rest it would be about 1-2 o'clock I guess). Then when getting the first play out of it, the kick is still in a much upper position and you can have a full stroke to kick. I also was thinking to try a 1mm cil head spacer kit that exist for these to bring the compression down a bit to ease the starting. I wouldn't mind the bit of powerloss. Not sure if I may expect good result with these?

What is an 'Edition' engine? And what means 7.5 weight?

I find it strange this flywheel weight upgrade; when it is such a good upgrade why didn't Gas Gas or Beta... fitted a heavier flywheel in the factory??? There must be some negative points also?

I found it hard to believe that a FW running engine can suddenly turn backwards due to a faulty iginition or flywheel. That should mean that the engine running at idle first stops and start again turning backward.... what kind a force can accomplish this? It is more likely to stall then if the iginitions fools up. What maybe happens is that after coming to halt on a slope (after running) that the clutch is not pulled in completely, then then engine stalls, bike rolls back on the slope and start to turn backwards.

gasgas.com/tech Here they say 650ml, but keep an eye on the level glass on the side of the casing. Should be in the middle. Also the say here: Always 5W30 (Not 10W40) while the manual says 10W40, not sure what is best?

Make sure your kick start pedal is mounted far enough to the front on the axis. So that once you get the play out of the travel and the piston is at TDC, you still have enough travel to give a firm kick. Personally I found 11h o'clock a good start position of the pedal to start the kick. 9h is far to low and will give only about 90

Thanks for all tips & answers guys; I'm still not sure if the rimband is glued on the rim or just a tight fit? Like I said, I don't recall seeing any lips or groovers were the rim band sits at. It more looks like the rimband was laying 'on top' of the rim. Also it looks like it was not easy removable without braking the glue... Is that correct for this type rim?

When I replaced my rear sprocket I needed to release 2 or 3 spokes (push in the nipple) to be able to put a ring spanner over the very tight nuts. After this operation I noticed I have a slow leaking rear tyre, flat afer a week. I had the tyre of the rim to check the rubber rim tape. In the Sherco tyre manual I found some instruction on how to the put the rim band on. It need to go under the lips right and left. But I found that on the GG 2007 Raga that the rim band is sort of glued on. Or maybe it is vulcanised rubber or so? I don't recall seeing any lips that hold the rim band. I'm not able to remove unless "braking the glue". Is that correct? Does GG rims (2007) not use lips to hold the rim band? How do I cure the leaking then? Buy a new rim band from GG?

thanks peter, I first need to buy a flywheel puller 27x1mm. I really like to use a torque wrench for the flywheel bolt/nut. I once had a sheared taper on teh crank of my oldtimer Lambretta and still not sure if the flywheel was tight enough. So since then I use a torque wrench. At first I also worked 'by feel' but then I checked with the torquewrench and I needed to do another half turn to get the right torque setting. Still I find the 40Nm in the manual very low, it is not the first error in the manual i found. I don't trust it I will go for a higher figure. Peter, I also read you post about lowering the gap between the flywheel and the external pickup from 0,5 to 0.1mm for better hot starting. I had a look at this, but the pickup is fixed with 1 hexbolt and 1 sort of stand with innerthread for the flywheel cover bolt. I'm not sure how to loosen this stand before I can move the pickup. Does it need a special key or so? Ooh also this; with the bike came a sort of metal tube (cilinder) about 30mm high, 10mm wide, only 1mm thick metal. Why is good for, I tought it has something to with the flyhweel?

I like to take the flywheel of for an inspection and cleaning. I noticed GG uses a bolt instead of a flywheel nut. The manual says torque the flywheel bolt up to 40Nm which seems very low to me, is this correct? What do you recommend/do? The technical guide for Sherco 2.9 2003 says 73 lbs/ft for the flywheel which is about 100Nm! That's quite a difference, most flywheel nuts torque settings I saw were higher, maybe it is low because it is a bolt? My 27mm flywheel puller don't fit, I'll need a special flywheel puller, it looks very fine (step 1.0?) thread inside the fllywheel. Is there any adjustment possible with the advance/retard setting of the ignition? Since the pickup is mounted outside, moving the stator is useless. There are now marks on the black flywheel, can I strobe-check the advance? What are the specs?

OK great, I have another try, it seems not so easy to check the fork oil. I'm still wondering why the 'breather' screw (next to teh adjustment screw) on the right forkleg is turning mad? On the left fork leg, I was able to unscrew it, but the right one, it looks like the thread is damaged?

I like to check the oil level on my newly acquired raga 300 '07, but I'm stuck at the fork disassembly. When I remove the left forkcap, it came lose from the fork stem, but stil it is fixed to something, how do I remove this cap? I also tried the 2.5mm hex bolt inside (see key on photo) but no difference. Then the right fork cap, when I try to turn it loose like the left side, it turns just in the middle, the red part stays fixed, in contrary to the left one which seems to be in 1 part. How do I remove this right fork cap? Also the breather bolt looks like it turns mad; the left side came out alright but this one stays in place, no matter how much I turn it, is the thread damaged? How to remove this rightside breater bolt?

thanks for the quick respons Jon, I have to admit I never done the fork before. On my Raga 300 2007 I suppose the black fork legs are aluminium? So I need to check for 160mm airspace from the oil level to the top of the leg. I still dont fully understand at what moment that I need to do the measuring? This cartridge thing is floating around in right forkleg, what is the purpose of it? So far I think what I need to do is: remove the 2 caps, remove the drain bolts a the bottom to release the old oil, remove the spring (only in the left fork leg?), then compress the fork fully down (I think this will goes easy w/o the sealing caps and spring), close teh drainholes, then fill with new oil andmeasure the remaining airspace from the oillevel to the top of the fork leg until it is 160mm, is that the right procedure? The manual says use SAE10 but in the doc file it says SAE7.5? Has is something to do with the riders wheight? Also in the top forkcaps there are 2 adjusting screws at each cap. What exactly are these doing and how to adjust them? The cap on the left side is for adjusting Compression the right cap for Rebound, but how does this work? One screw has marked +/- but the second nothing, what does the second screw do then on each cap?