shercoman2k8 Posted August 30, 2009 Report Share Posted August 30, 2009 Hey all, You may all think down upon me, but i was just wondering on anodising costs for certain parts of the bike, I'm certainly not a showoff and certainly dont have the skills to showoff with, I'm just interested in giving my bike a personal touch. It's a sherco if that gives you a better idea, were all a bit odd Anyway, parts I had in mind were; Rims - Electric blue (like the academy models) Front and rear. Cdi Bracket/engine mount - Gold Yokes - Electric Blue Thermostat Casing - Black Water Pump Cover - Electric blue (I heard these were magnesium, so it would be a spray paint job, this true?) Hubs - Black Put in colours just incase this makes a difference. Any clue on pricing? Who's best, yet cheapest for doing this kinda work? Or if you've got a lot of time on your hands, who's best for the individual pieces? I can anodise, as we spent about 3 months practicing it in chemistry, but cant get hold of the acid, anybody have any idea where i can find concentrated, or 50/50 sulphuric acid in bulk? Also, best place 'n' make of nipples and spokes for the wheels? Cheers in advance, Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 (edited) Ok, Jamie, I am sure you can find someone in the UK to do your rims and hubs for about L 500! The yokes add another 50 if you break themdown, which is a real pain and likely require a new lower bearing. Far as I know, the engine bracket is still steel! Paint it! Thermo casing is easily thrown in a plating lot, yet not worth the trouble, paint it! I doubt the pump cover is magnesium, as none have rotted away that I know ov! Yet one would need stripping and polish before Anodising or it would not look good! Good luck on spokes and nipples. The stock nipples can corrode quickly due to the plating. I have not found a better replacement other than New! Bike in shreads, possibly weeks! Edited August 31, 2009 by copemech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted August 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 (edited) No need for the bike in shreds, would be done bit by bit, as and when I can afford it... Living in the middle of nowhere with nothing really to save for, 50% of my money goes on the bike. Saw someone on ebay who will de-build, anodise the rims and rebuild the wheels for Edited August 31, 2009 by shercoman2k8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 Yea, well I will give you a few thoughts then, I do understand. Send them new nipples to do up the rims at the same time! Pre pack them with silecone grease on the threads! And supply them a bit to pre lube the nipple seats! They may not do the polished edges on the rims, ok but you may ba able to do later if they get nicked! Do not expect your rear rim to come back with the proper offset! Which is critical! Prepare to re align things! Anything you send to a plater must be as perfect as you want it beforehand, **** looks like plated ****! I personally tend to stay away from the hubs if they are in good nick, not to use the bake on paint! it does chip and turn sour! I have to order those pedal bushes in a batch! Have not had any demand since the first batch that were in testing and still on mine! I may get more, but as of now I have none to send. Even the very last one I was planning to give to Noel Smage has gone missing? I might get some on order before long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted September 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 I see your point, I think it can wait. Maybe school are looking to find items they can teach the y10's to anodise on Will probably stick to the smaller, and cheaper bits and pieces and spend the money on performance parts, anodised rims wont make me ride any better. On the other hand, couldn't exactly make it any worse Well, whenever the bushes are on order, be it next week or next year, would you let me know? Thanks Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 I will try to remember, In the mean time, ans since you posted that piccie, if you are really bored you can figure how to polish the Sherco lettering on the top end and find some nice titanium bolts or allens for the head along with a VX plug!! That will give you something to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted September 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 Well, decided to spend the money on performance stuff instead. Keihin carb and Ti frontpipe coming next week. Gonna put the wallet away and bring out the polish, buff a few things up, buff and polish up the stat casing, water pump casing and clutch casing, sod this anodied business. Quite like the black wheels. I've seen sense Making the most of it, doesn't normally hang around long. Really, should I bother with a high compression head? Heard some good things about them, and the bikes i've tried with them felt pretty responsive and torquey, but does it make that much difference? After seeing the 2010 pre release pic, im gonna keep this another year or so and make the most out of it, maybe before venturing into another brand (like that'll ever happen) Any other nice little touches anyone can think of, in here please Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 I got bored when fitting a slave cylinder kit to mine so now have a perfectly flat, works looking slave cylinder Get some bling adjusters for the carb when it arrives if you still want colour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shercoman2k8 Posted September 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 I got bored when fitting a slave cylinder kit to mine so now have a perfectly flat, works looking slave cylinder Any chance of an explanation of how, and with a picture of the final result? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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