funkyhobbit Posted November 8, 2009 Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 Hello fellas, I have an 07 250 with a clutch niggle and would like any advice please. From cold the clutch works ok, no drag or slippage. during a trial the clutch has a little bit of drag but nothing upsetting( guess its the oil heating up?) i can select neutral ok. I change the gearbox oil after every trial. My niggle is: weither hot or cold, the clutch does not have a good progressive feel. there is very little drive until the lever is almost fully out, then the last part of the lever seems a little snatchy. I have bled and checked the hydrolic side of the clutch and checked/adjusted the lever under the supervision of an experienced bike mechanic friend of mine. Could it be a problem on the mechanical problem on the pushrod assembly or on theplates/basket ? Thanks,Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the addict Posted November 8, 2009 Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 Mark, bit unusual for a Sherco clutch to work ok from cold, they normally dont work at all for first 2 metres or so, have you played about with the lever adjuster to see if it helps? bit excessive swapping the oil every trial but fair play, 20 hours is fine (200 hours for a Mont though) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbull8447 Posted November 8, 2009 Report Share Posted November 8, 2009 Hi M8 like other guy said my sherco won't release for the first few metres, try checking the plates as one might have broken up, or might even be worn, have a look at the realse bearing while your there, also check the clutch hub nut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted November 9, 2009 Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 This topic is a bit of a quagmire as much just depends upon what you want from it. Granted, they typically do not tend to stick the plates from cold with fresh oil, yet changing every ride is a bit of overkill! You did not state which oil you are using, but 10-40 is the factory recommended still. You can go to a thicker oil, which should slow the reaction. You can also go back to the "short" AJP levers, as compared to the medium length. As the lever ratio is more progressive. Your lever adjuster should be set to start dragging with the lever just off the fingers on the bars, so you have some release clearance there and still puts the "full pop" range well out from "creep" mode. Another thing is to use second gear for most all your practice operations, as it will force you to train the finger to slip the clutch and find traction! Get your finger out on the lever more when needed. Mind you, I am still running the opposite strategy, running two less opposing springs in the basket and a light ATF! Makes the clutch a bit floaty under hard acceleration, yet finds a really good slip range for average stuff! Not recommended for mor aggressive riders. Clutch doesnot seem to stick from cold as bad. Yet , word to the wise, never totally trust one when slammed into gear, as you might put yourself into a stationary object! Best thing is to always put the bikke up into 4th or 5th gear and rock it to insure the clutch is free before starting. This is just good practice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted November 9, 2009 Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 Might be time to have a look at the basket & see if theres any notches worn into the fingers, if so pull the clutch apart & get them filed out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funkyhobbit Posted November 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2009 Hi fellas, Thanks for all your input. The Trials I have been running recently have been very wet ones with some really deep-water crossings between sections. I have had some traces of emulsification in the gear oil due to water creeping into the gearbox via the case breather. The coolant level has remained unchanged. Also having to travel up to 3/4 a mile between sections at high speed puts the gear oil through the mill. I use 75wt Rock oil gear light, costs me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobtlr Posted November 16, 2009 Report Share Posted November 16, 2009 hey i have the same thing on my 4stroke clutch is quite on/off would the trick with 4 springs iso 6 work on the 320? is there a master cilinder with smaller piston then what sherco uses? regards bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted November 17, 2009 Report Share Posted November 17, 2009 heyi have the same thing on my 4stroke clutch is quite on/off would the trick with 4 springs iso 6 work on the 320? is there a master cilinder with smaller piston then what sherco uses? regards bob Bob, that is a good question, as it seems the 4T does share a common sump with bthe gearbox and motor. The -2 spring setup is just different and you would have to try it. I can still get a good "pop" out of the clutch running the thin ATF, but I just do not know if the 4T can run on that. One thought is to tru the lighter oils such as 5-30 or 5-20 and see how it feels. May not withstand a WOT dump of the clutch without some slippage, but then again, how often do you do that? Even some slippage seems to be ok on these things, just do not want to over do it. As the pro's can sit there and slip it all day, creating great heat in the fluid and clutches without problems, put your usage into perspective. The only other thing I can say is that the -2 setup can seem a bit floaty at times, but takes some adjustment, all a tradeoff!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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