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2000 Txt Fork Seals


stevenbb4
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Stevenbb4,

Heres your step by step.... Disclaimer: I did this a year ago. I may be missing a step or two but honestly if you have ever done a fork seal it is pretty self explainatory with a few improvements to jap bikes.

I did mine last winter and it was pretty easy. You will also want to replace the dust seals (those are the outer ones on the bronze cap) and replace your fluid (i used belray 5w) I have a 2000 txt 280

First i would use a strap wrench(one of those soft ones) and break free the fork caps. (These are the brass looking caps on the fork body) If you dont do this before pulling the thing appart you will need two straps (one to hold the body and the other to spin the cap)

Next loosen the top fork nuts. Again while these are held togeather by the tripple trees and the axle it is easier. If already appart then again a strap wrench to hold the fork tube. I had a thin enough wrench to get inbeween the handle bar and these nuts.

Now remove the alxe and front wheel, followed by the fender and brake caliper.

Then loosen the tripple tree's and remove one fork. (why one you ask? Because i accidently put the left on right and right on left when i was putting it back in. learn from my mistake :wall: )

Once the fork is in your hand then screw out the fork cap and slide it off the end of the tube. Here is where the seal is. Becareful there is an oring under that cap which can be cut. Once this is in your hand it is pretty explanitory on pounding them out and using a correct socket/installer/whatever in getting the new ones back in. Dust shield is also in this cap replace this too.

Now drain the fork. First back the nut at the top of the tube all the way out. Note that the spring is attached at this nut. YOU WILL NOT be able to take the spring out nor do you need to. The fork tube will fall into the body and it will stay all togeather. There is a small allen screw at the bottom of the fork. Remove that and start pumping the fork tube. This will blow all of your old fluid out. (took me 10 mins of letting it dribble to find that one out)

After its drained put the screw back in remembering to inspect that oring that seals this screw)

Now filler up! 300 cc of your finest brew. I used bel ray 5w but i am a light guy (170lbs) and i like my rebound. what you need to do is tilt the fork at an angle and pour it into the spring/tube. Try not to spill any. I used a standard pyrex for this.

After full put the top nut back in till snug. Then slip the cap with seal and dust shield over the end carefully as to not cut the seal. Slide her all the way down and tighten it up as much as possible.

Slide the fork up in the appropriate side, set your height, and tighten down the tripple tree.

Repeat with the other fork.

Put your tire and axle in along with fender. Then tighten down those caps with your strap wrench. Reinstall your caliper and torque down your upper fork nuts.

First fork took me 2 hours second took half hour. Make sure you get your tripple trees tight enough. This year I came off a log wrong and they slipped causing my wheel to divert. Those caps have holes for a spanner wrench but i didnt have the appropriate one so the strap wrench worked fine.

Remember i did this a year ago and I may be missing something but this was really straight forward. I was really surprised at the spring not comming out like any other fork i had seen but the trick is not to force anything. Easiest forks i have ever done (once i figured it out) Take your time your in no hurry.

Great website for all tech stuff on gas gas is http://www.gasgas.com/Pages/Technical/Home.html

Jon Stoodely knows his stuff.

Have fun.

Btw mine are still 100 % and the gas gas is right outside waiting for me to go do donuts in the snow! Bring on the snow!

Biff

Body is the lower portion of the fork.

Tube is the upper portion.

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