December 29, 200421 yr Hello all! I have a 04 280 pro and the plug is always wet, can anyone tell me what the correct position the clip should be on the needle jet? And also whats the point of the flap at the bottom of the airbox, it keeps letting water in Hope you all had a good xmas
December 29, 200421 yr Author thanks for the very prompt reply im out riding tomorrow and lookin forward to trying it. my carb kept freezin yestaday due to water gettin in the vents while jet washing so hopefully going to be a better day
December 30, 200421 yr I run my '04 280 Pro in the 2nd position too. I also run a 38 pilot and a #65 starter jet. I adjust my fuel screw based on the day/conditions. Try dropping the needle and listen for "pinking" under load, if it "pinks" raise it one position and try again. Remember the needle effects approx 1/4 - 1/2 throttle. Below that is pilot. Don't get too caught up in plug colour, it's a poor indication of jetting, unless you do proper plug chops at WOT...then only effective for tuning main jet. Lots of things effect plug colour, not the least is fuel quality. Jetting by feel is far more productive in most cases.
December 30, 200421 yr Can't help with carb set ups but on my '04 250 I've replaced the airbox flap with an alloy plate sealed with silicone (use the 2 screws to mount it) and left a small hole (2.5mm) at the lowest point (centre, forward edge of drain hole) to allow any water that may get in thru the airbox intake or lid to drain out. Nothing of any significance seems to get back in, well not in the Cotswolds, anyway, not even submerging it in streams or quarry ‘puddles’. This mod and then keeping the lid seal in good condition, checking the carb rubbers are aligned correctly and care with the jet-wash should all but eliminate cack getting in to the airbox/carb. r2w is right about water tracking down the throttle cable, this seems to happen more after rigorous washing/jet-washing than riding in the full brunt of the elements IME. The larger rubber air box protector and engine/radiator shield from BVM (www.bvm-moto.co.uk/bikeprot.htm#airfilterengine ) and larger air box mud flap from GasGas UK (or make your own, ‘s easy) seem to reduce the amount of muck getting into the intake area, too.
December 30, 200421 yr Author Thanks for the help altered the needle to the 2nd position before i went riding 2da and it feels like a different bike. more responsive, ticks over better and pulls at low revs where it would usually stall. do any of you know how to make it start better sometimes i have to kick it 3/4 times before it comes to life? I have changed the float level to 17mm as advised by Kev @ gasgas which seems to help but doesnt cure it. its never a problem until just before i drop it over a 12 foot rock edge facing downhill' ((or is that about 4inch). i have vertigo just prior to gettin out of bed') many thanks happy new year all
December 31, 200421 yr A richer pilot will help with starting. Try a #38. If it's cold starting that is your issue, then the larger starter jet is the answer. Mine will flash up in 1-2 kicks even in sub zero temps.
December 31, 200421 yr The starter jet is not critical to the way a bike runs, as are the main and pilot jets, so they're not too picky. I drill them. I have a very small pin-drill index, and I find the largest bit that fits, then go up 2 sizes.
January 1, 200521 yr The starter jet is not critical to the way a bike runs, as are the main and pilot jets, so they're not too picky.I drill them. I have a very small pin-drill index, and I find the largest bit that fits, then go up 2 sizes. Agreed. In a pinch, you can easily drill out pilots and mains too. I just keep a #65 starter around all the time, as I find every bike seems to benefit from it,particularly in our "less than tropical" climate
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.