eiger Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 Any of you had any experience of losing 4th gear (when selected makes noise as if teeth missing/broken) and if so idea's of costs. I was considering replacing mains too whilst it was stripped and wondered how hard it was going to hit the wallet. I've searched previous posts but can't find anything to match my query. We've not had any experience of a Sherco before and would be grateful of any hints and tips to look for on the 03 model and whether the gearbox is a common problem. Thanks Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Have a look at splatshops site to get the cost of parts #m062 & m063, they're the numbers for the 04 gears & I don't have a 03 parts book The parts books are available for download from their site-link to sherco's site & are quite helpful Best bet is to make the decision on whether you want to do the mains then strip the motor & see what you can find in there before ordering anything. Replacing the mains is a relatively easy & cheap job which I'd do anyway if going inside the gearbox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Broken or stripped gears seem extremly rare on the Sherco so there are no reported patterns here. One recent situation broke 3'rd after a sudden stoppage due to throwing a chain. Other that that, a close inspection would be neccessary. Could be just a bent fork due to a crash if all else works. Yes, if you must do it, do it all. Be done with it. Splatshop has the good viton seals as well. Keep us posted please, always good for future ref. Cheers, MC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eiger Posted February 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Thanks for the replies, much appreciated, I'll let you know how I go on. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eiger Posted March 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2010 The follow up is that I've replaced the mains and both fourth gears and it was a pretty straight forward job, only needed an impact wrench to remove the clutch housing nut and the crank gear nut on the clutch side (and a flywheel puller). I've replaced the main bearings too and things looked to be on the cheap side but the bore was pitted and piston scored so more costs are involved, but still a relatively easy job to do overall and not beyond the capabilities of most practically minded people. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 The follow up is that I've replaced the mains and both fourth gears and it was a pretty straight forward job, only needed an impact wrench to remove the clutch housing nut and the crank gear nut on the clutch side (and a flywheel puller).I've replaced the main bearings too and things looked to be on the cheap side but the bore was pitted and piston scored so more costs are involved, but still a relatively easy job to do overall and not beyond the capabilities of most practically minded people. Pete Good job then! Any idea what caused it? Top end could be done later if need be, depends upon the budjet. Many times a proper hone job and next size piston will clean things up nicely as compared to a re-plate on the things! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 I've replaced the main bearings too and things looked to be on the cheap side but the bore was pitted and piston scored so more costs are involved, but still a relatively easy job to do overall and not beyond the capabilities of most practically minded people. Can't say that a pitted bore is a good sign of a careful previous owner or a normal occurance, worst I've seen/done is distort a bore by getting water in the engine when it was hot whiloe trailriding. I'm now into my 10th year on shercos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 I'm now into my 10th year on shercos Oddly enough I am riding a 10 year old Sherco........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 I'm meant to be riding mine this week end but unless I can seal a wheel and/or get my michelin to not fire the tyre beader out after swapping it to the good wheel it looks like I'm stuck riding a twinshock in a national level event Wife is telling me 2 years of chasing leaking wheels is too long & maybe it's time to buy a mont wheel Any ideas on how to keep the beader in place long enough to seat the first side? Never had a 2000 Zippy but have owned both 99 & 01 models, 99 was a 250 & 01 a 290. Stayed on the bigger bikes since Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 I'm meant to be riding mine this week end but unless I can seal a wheel and/or get my michelin to not fire the tyre beader out after swapping it to the good wheel it looks like I'm stuck riding a twinshock in a national level event Wife is telling me 2 years of chasing leaking wheels is too long & maybe it's time to buy a mont wheel Any ideas on how to keep the beader in place long enough to seat the first side? Never had a 2000 Zippy but have owned both 99 & 01 models, 99 was a 250 & 01 a 290. Stayed on the bigger bikes since Never had a problem using a beader. It always applies enough pressure to keep the underside against the rim while sealing the top enough untill the actual tire hits the rim enough to seal. Be sure the valve core is out of the stem so you can flow enough air volume to make things happen! Good compressed air supply! Lots of proper lube on the beads and beader! Once the sides of the tire hit the inner sides of the rim, the beader should pop out and the tire take by itself and continue to inflate untill the beads pop and lock on the lips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 Thanks Cope, never seen a beader climb out either. Going to a friends in about an hour to have a go with his, wish me luck. To make matters worse my handpiece had the centre break, the bit that holds the valve open but I never blow them up with the core in so there shouldn't have been a problem there Had a call from the beta importer while at work, he's going to bring in some of the DID rims as he's sick of the problems as well including a brand new bike with a small rim. We're going to convert one of my wheels when they arrive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ham2 Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 You're not trying to seat a Vee tyre are you? I had a real problem seating one of those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted March 18, 2010 Report Share Posted March 18, 2010 the beads pop and lock on the lips. Are you talking tires........or something else that involves beads and lips?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony27 Posted March 21, 2010 Report Share Posted March 21, 2010 Nope it's a michelin, got out to friends place & he said the problem was using lube will let the beader pop out. As it was next day it had dried & the tyre popped on easy. My vee rubber tyre I fitted next day as a worst case spare(no grip if its wet), used the beader to seat first side the lubed it up real good & lent on it while rolling & air flowing constantly, went on quite easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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