rtm Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 Guys, I have a Fantic FM250 (125cc) which has been converted to a 156cc by using a liner. Its got a new Piston and ring fitted / new big end new mains and crank seals. I honed the cylinder a little but didn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b40rt Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 (edited) Clean carb again, plus filter in tank. Compressor is good, squirt carb cleaner or similar through every orifice (on the carb!) Edited February 5, 2010 by B40RT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtm Posted February 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 I used carb cleaner and my wind machine last night Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtm Posted February 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2010 Niether of the above did the trick. I tried a 200 carb and that seems to have worked. Not ridden it yet but at least it ticks over now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtm Posted February 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2010 The above cure didntwork as I thought. The bike is nearly ticking over now but fails at the last hurdle. What are the symptoms of a worn slide? or just a knackered carb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtm Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 Although I am not quite sure about why this is the case it appears the fault might be to do with the 125 to 156cc conversion. I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bilc0 Posted February 23, 2010 Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 You did'nt put your spacer back in then,if not pop it back in and ty again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtm Posted February 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2010 No I didnt. I measured the modified 125 barrel against a old 200 barrel I have kicking about. Everything appeared to be the same, I must have been wrong eh ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bilc0 Posted February 24, 2010 Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 God knows RTM,your just gonna have to play around with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtm Posted February 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2010 I checked for cracks or leak paths through to both sides of the crank cases - nothing. I removed 3mm from the skirt as per the old piston and installed it with the 3mm spacer in position. It nearly killed my trying to get it to fire up and then it ran very poorly indeed. Stripped it again removed the spacer and it runs slightly better but its still racing. Too late now to play with it tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hewson Posted February 26, 2010 Report Share Posted February 26, 2010 Why did'nt you try it first with the 3mm base spacer , before cutting the piston down ????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtm Posted February 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2010 That is a good question. The reason or rather my logic was, it once ran with a cut down piston fitted and it must have run for a good few hours as the old cut down piston was worn. & Bill Pye told me I had to cut it down as it was a converted 125! The engine also knocked when running as it something like the piston was hitting something. Its actually nowrunning the best it ever has and nearly ticks over. But it still fails at those low revs and other times it picks up and revs. I cannot find a constant. I am wondering it it could be down to float level? or maybe the needle position. Anyone know the correct float setting ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bilc0 Posted February 27, 2010 Report Share Posted February 27, 2010 (edited) Would be worth looking into your carb abit more.....Is your air screw working ok.??? Edited February 27, 2010 by bilc0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtm Posted March 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2010 After a great deal of faffing about with this fantic. I decided it must must be an air leak. So I removed the carb and simply filled the crank cases up to the inlet port height with paraffin. It drained away quickly so now I knew there was a leak and it must be into the gearbox as it was not coming out anywhere I could see. I removed the cluch cover and flooded the garage floor with paraffin. The leak was behind the crank pinion flywheel. The reason simply being the crank seal installed having a 22mm bore and it should be a 20mm bore. My excuse is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtm Posted March 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2010 (edited) We have tick over ! Apparently only the very first Fantic’s made (1978/79) had the 20mm diameter crank on the Pinion side. All of the later models were 22mm. Edited March 4, 2010 by RTM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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