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Dragging Clutch 2004 Txt200pro


tobster
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hi guys

as the title says, the clutch on my sons TXT200pro drags badly, so bad that the bike will move forward even with the clutch pulled fully in. Is this 'normal'? If not, how can I adjust the hydraulic clutch? All advice appreciated. Apart from that it is a beautiful bike and a mega step up from his previous bike (TXT70) he had last year - makes my Pinky seem very old and heavy (like me). thanks

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hi guys

as the title says, the clutch on my sons TXT200pro drags badly, so bad that the bike will move forward even with the clutch pulled fully in. Is this 'normal'? If not, how can I adjust the hydraulic clutch? All advice appreciated. Apart from that it is a beautiful bike and a mega step up from his previous bike (TXT70) he had last year - makes my Pinky seem very old and heavy (like me). thanks

First two things to check:

There is a little clearance where the lever adjustment screw meets the plunger that goes into the master cylinder (the plunger goes through the rubber boot).

That the piston is starting to build pressure as soon as the lever is pulled. If the piston seal is worn and not sealing at first movement in the normally slightly tapered M/C bore, the system will not build pressure until it travels into the smaller diameter part of the bore.

An adjustment of the lever screw back enough to allow the piston to return back to the stop completely should be the first thing to check. A rebuild kit should fix the second issue.

Jon

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Hi Jon

I was hoping you would offer some advice. I shall look at the master cyclinder as suggested. I'll also bleed the system to make sure no air has got in which might reduce the travel of the clutch. The bike runs on ATF and getting it into neutral once stationary is nigh on impossible. All part of the clutch 'issues' I guess. What volume of ATF should it be using in the gearbox? Thanks

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Hi I don't know much but a short while ago my gas gas clutch started to slip so I purchased a new clutch pack from gas gas uk & was shocked to see that the metal plates inbetween the friction plates were slightly wider than the ones already installed so presuming it was ok I installed the new pack, It then had the opposite effect of it then draggin & not disengaging, which is the same problem my Mate had with his sons 200pro so I stripped apart again & put in 1 new wider plate & 1 old thin plate, it was perfect so my mate did the same & that is now ok too, not sure if we have got similar seal problems but mine hasn't altered since doing it after goin out a few times so I'm happy it's fine

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  • 3 weeks later...
 

My local dealer told me to drain the gearbox of oil ,

Fill it with 650ml of diesil, drive around purposely slipping the clutch for about 10mins or so

Then drain and fill back up with ATF ,

Seems to have stopped my dragging problem !

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The older motors (pre-Pro) take 650 ml, the Pro's take 350ml; I've been told to run ATF type F (older stuff) and it's been working great. Poor action at the master or not enough stroke at the master will cause a drag, so will worn plates. If the plate stack isn't the correct height (too high) the slave will not have enough travel to completely disengage the stack (hence the problem skye2 was having). You can pull the side cover and the clutch basket and measure to see if you need new frictions (an '04 that's never had them replaced could be due); the adjustments at the bars are much easier so start with them.

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