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Chain tention


marius
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Compress your rear suspension until the rear axle, swing arm pivot and gearbox sprocket shaft centres are all in a straight line. At this point your chain will be at its tightest. At this point it should have about 20mm play mid way between the sprockets when the tensioner is held away from the chain. Some people set it a bit slacker to keep the tensioner up a bit away from rocks or accomodate mud build up on the sprockets. Main thing is not to have it too tight or it wrecks you gearbox bearings as well as increasing chain wear. Nor should it be so slack tensioner touches swing arm.

Cheers

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I think i can say this on here, i may get told off.

But one of the site sponsers, Trials uk, if you go to their web site they have a How 2 videos section. Chain tension is part of one of them.

Hope that helps.

You'll never get told off for promoting a site sponsor. The guys at Trials UK are a good bunch.

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I set mine with the wheels off the ground, tension untill 15mm between tension block and the swingarm.

I find doing it this way, when the suspension is compressed to where the chain is at the tightest point there is still 20mm slack.

Hope this helps.

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I agree with RichT..... set it slack so the tensioner is just off the swing arm when in the carpark. My chains last ages so i am finally doing something right. Also use the spray on Maxima Cain Wax.... brilliant stuff and i never have to degrease the chain/sprockets.

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  • 1 month later...
 

Hey guys, also a new trials guy here. (sort of)

Would that tension technique also apply to a 1998 pampera?

Thanks.

Most likely! I believe we did it the pretty much the same way on the older gasgas trials bikes, just I suggest doing it with wheels off groud (rear wheel at least). since the pamp should be heavier so "at rest" might compress more for static starting point?

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