03 250 pro gear problem neutral and jumping gear

[youthy]

Hi all happy new year. just wondering if anyone can shed some light on this subject, my 03 250 pro is getting a bitch to get into neutral sometimes even when not running! just recently it has been ticking over for a short while ( 30-60seconds ) and jumped into gear itself. Have put new clutch in recently to erradicate the common clutch drag and its been great but the neutral problem seems to be getting worse slowl. oil changed every 3 times out so that should be ok considering i only go out for a couple of hours at a time.

i have heard that there is adjustment behind the clutch caseing near the clutch basket for the gears but i dont no wether this will help or i have a more terminal problem? all help appreciated

[steve1979]

You and me both, don't know how to help but if it's any consilation my bike does excatly the same and i too have just fitted a new clutch. Neutral is always a b****r to find, i think thats just one of those things although when not running you should be able to find it...well easier.

Mine jumps into gear now and again while in neutral i just put it down to me not completly selecting neutral properly.

There is a check you can do to see if the selector needs adjusting, look it up on youtube under gas gas repair. It's in amongst the various repair video's, it's to do with placing bike on a stand then selecting 1st then slowly let the lever back up and you should hear a click when it's found it's own resting point if you have to pull the lever further up to hear the click then you definatly need to adjust same for 2nd,

but it's explained better on you tube.

Mine is also a 03 250 and also get fresh oil more than it probably needs. It'll be interesting to hear what other people say about it as mine does the excact same as yours

[laser1]

The click test procedure mentioned above is in this video - about 6 1/2 minutes into it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A80n7zq80n8

[grib]

My 2003 Pro used to be very difficult to get into neutral and the clutch dragged even with the lever back to the handlebars. I fixed it by fitting new 2004 clutch plates (different part number to 2003)and using Dexron III ATF in the gearbox as it says Here. check the clutch pack dimensions too, mine were OK, just the new plates and ATF made a world of difference.

[grib]

This is broadly similar but has some additional information.

[youthy]

thanks guys tried the click test the other day forgot to mention that. it seems i dont hear a click even if i lift the lever slightly after first has engaged etc. does anyone know what that means? All gears are selecting and working fine clutch pack dimmensions are within tolerance and no drag or slippage just neutral problem. i was advised by al the spanner not to use atf as it can cause clutch pack to swell causeing drag

[grib]

Conflicting opinions then, as so often happens; I took the advice in the Gas Gas bulletin and havent had any problems for the last 6 years.

[youthy]

sorry to sound like a fool ( i dont mind holding my hands up to being stupid) i had another look on the y tube vid and realised that the chap says " if you cant hear the click or the shifter needs lifting then adjustment is needed" so all i need to worry about now is trying to get the allen bolt of the shaft to take off the complete clutch basket. i remember looking at it when i changed the clutch plates and thinking it didnt look to clever ie, like someone had had the wrong size allen key in there before looked a bit chewed! anyone got any tips to remove this or am i safe enough tapping the closest size torques in to get a good bite on the bolt?

[jse]

i remember looking at it when i changed the clutch plates and thinking it didnt look to clever ie, like someone had had the wrong size allen key in there before looked a bit chewed! anyone got any tips to remove this or am i safe enough tapping the closest size torques in to get a good bite on the bolt?

I'm assuming you mean the Allen capscrew down inside the clutch hub. That's a special capscrew that has been drilled to allow the transmission to "breathe" and has had the head cut down for clearance when the clutch servo cylinder drops down into the hub when the clutch lever is pulled (and should not be replaced with a standard capscrew as sometimes the servo cylinder "top hat" will bottom out against the extended head and the clutch lever will stop before hitting the grip).

The previous owner probably used an old used Allen wrench to try to get it out and the worn flutes on the end of the wrench shaft quickly rounded out the capscrew as the center is shallow (due to being cut down) and there is reduced grip. You can first try a new 4mm Allen wrench or an old one with about 5mm cut off the end. If that does not work, try a T-27 Torx bit next. The T-27 will be a little larger than the capscrew hole and tapping the end of the extension it's on will help break the thread bond and force the Torx bit to cut down into the hole to allow grip to back the capscrew out.

If you are in a bind and need to ride, you can leave the capscrew and stepped washer out (don't forget to also take out that thick, stepped washer in the center of the clutch hub!) and you might get a little more oil out the breather (so keep an eye on the oil level), but otherwise it should be o.k. till you get a replacement capscrew. The pressure of the spring-loaded servo cylinder will hold the clutch basket on the shaft. I know of several riders who take out the capscrew and washer as they say it makes it easier to remove the clutch, but I personally like to keep the capscrew/washer in the hub. You can also use the Torx to re-install the capscrew if you want but you probably want to replace it soon just to be sure.

As mentioned, use a new or cut-down Allen to install the capscrew and I like to use a little blue ("servicable" type) Loctite on the threads. The new/cut-down Allen wrench tip also applies to the drain plugs on your bike which are aluminum and easily stripped out.

Jon