sidey Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Just finished putting a new motor into a sy250, all running well but cant get the back brake to work. Had to disconnect the brake line from the caliper but cant get it to bleed back up to get pressure. Anyone tell me how to bleed the rear brake on this bike?? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabby Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Just had the very same problem at a trial today on my SY, did the first half with no rear at all despite numerous bleeds, released the banjo bolt on the caliper and suddenly I had rear brakes again, I'm guessing that's where the air will be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidey Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Just had the very same problem at a trial today on my SY, did the first half with no rear at all despite numerous bleeds, released the banjo bolt on the caliper and suddenly I had rear brakes again, I'm guessing that's where the air will be. Thanks for that, will give it a go...sounds like its just a case of messing around with it until you get pressure back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scraggydog64 Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 I have spent many a miserable hour trying to bleed rear brakes. Someone advised getting an easi bleeder, Halfords sell them, job done in minutes. The only downside is you have to drill the fluid reservoir cap. Wished I bought it years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cabby Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 I have spent many a miserable hour trying to bleed rear brakes. Someone advised getting an easi bleeder, Halfords sell them, job done in minutes. The only downside is you have to drill the fluid reservoir cap. Wished I bought it years ago. Caps don't fit trials bike, or at least not the standard caps you get with the pack, I returned mine to the shop, but as you say rear brake bleed is a job from hell, mind and remove your pads, as they will probably get covered in fluid and become contaminated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weldit Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 (edited) Caps don't fit trials bike, or at least not the standard caps you get with the pack, I returned mine to the shop, but as you say rear brake bleed is a job from hell, mind and remove your pads, as they will probably get covered in fluid and become contaminated. Try using a syringe full of fluid and bleed this back up from the caliper to resivoir, have done this many times works a treat. Edited January 3, 2011 by WELDIT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scraggydog64 Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 What I mean't was you have to drill the actual fluid reservoir cap fitted to the bike. When the job is finished there is the rubber insert between the cap and the fluid. I blanked off the hole in the cap with a nut, bolt and pair of washers until I get round to ordering a new cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bowz Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Bought an eazibleed kit then drilled a red cap from lucozade bottle - fits reservoir on my gas gas (needed to add an o ring) not sure about others, saves drilling original and makes job much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ridgrunr Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 Haven't bled my Scorpa yet, but I suspect it may be like my Gassers were. Simply pushing the brake pedal wouldn't push the plunger deep enough into the master cylinder to force out all the fluid so you could never pump it up to push the air out. The air would just move back and forth in the line. On the Gassers we had to disconnect the plunger at the pivot point where it goes into the bottom of the master cylinder, then push against the master cylinder piston with something like a round screw driver that was the same size as the piston plunger. That would allow me to push it deep enough to get the air to flow out of the master cylinder line so I could pressure pump up the system to get the air out of the bleed nipple. The Scorpa's could be the same. If you are having a problem it might be worth a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tricks Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 If you've just fitted a motor then check you haven't nicked the hose coming from the reservoir to the master cylinder, an small hole in the pipe won't always leak but it will let air in. And as others mention go buy a brake bleeding kit and a large syringe, my rear brake wouldn't back bleed at all so i removed the reservoir and forced fluid back down until all bubbles stopped coming out of the caliper. Works as it should now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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