gwhy Posted May 9, 2014 Report Share Posted May 9, 2014 you can use this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC15-120V-Waterproof-Blue-LED-Panel-Meter-DC-Digital-Voltmeter-Two-wire-v-h9-/331196216262?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item4d1cd533c6 fit this directly to the battery + - via a small fuse to monitor the complete battery voltage when you are riding. Once you know that your lipos are behaving ok ( after a few charges discharges ) then there is not really a need to run the cell level monitors on the bike all the time, the voltameter i linked to is good enough to use as a battery fuel gauge, for a 48v lipo stop riding when voltage is around 41v... then use a cell level monitor to test the cells before you recharge the battery, to make sure that all the cells are approx the same voltage +-0.2v and none are below around 3.4v as most lipo problems/accedents occur when being charged due to a faulty or low voltage cell. The throttle is just a standard e-bike hall throttle so any e-bike throttle will work but you may have to sort out the wiring. I would test the output first of the hall throttle that you have fitted, it should give a signal output of 0.8v with the throttle closed to around 4v WOT, to test this use a voltmeter measuring between the gnd ( black wire on the battery ) to the signal wire that comes out of the throttle on a DC volt range. Anything less than around 3.8v output means that full throttle will not be achieved. The magnets sometimes become loose or broken in the throttle housing and this can effect full throttle and also closed throttle but can also give a non-linear voltage output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stonezone Posted May 19, 2014 Report Share Posted May 19, 2014 Thanks Gwhy,...I meant to tell you that I ordered this a while back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stonezone Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 so this only seems to work on either of my P cells, not the whole series. So i have an audible low voltage alarm connected to one and this display connected to the other (so i obviously just double the readout to keep track). Any idea why it wont work for the full 44.4 vilt pack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 If this is the meter you bought http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC15-120V-Waterproof-Blue-LED-Panel-Meter-DC-Digital-Voltmeter-Two-wire-v-h9-/331196216262?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item4d1cd533c6 then it should just work if connected to the 44.4v pack red to red and black to black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stonezone Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 yeah, i bought the exact one you suggested. It's working fine the way i have it but just strange that it doens't work for the full pack... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 That is very strange... it should be able to work upto 120v , do it light up at all ?. I have a number of these meters on a few of my bikes and the only problem I have had with them is if the voltage is below around 18v they do not give accurate readings. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stonezone Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 nope no sign of life when i plug it into the full pack. I made an adapter for the balance leads for it and another for the ghetto low voltage audible alarm i have. i'm stumped but it's still doing what I need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmski Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 Hi all, have taken the plunge and ordered LiPos for our Oset 20 48v. Ordered the following: 6 of these http://hobbyking.co....h_4S1P_30C.html 2 of these http://hobbyking.co....n_Parallel.html to parallel them together A pack of XT60 conectors 2 x low volatge alarms. Already have a LiPo charger so want to work out how to charge in parallel. Now that was the easy bit, how the f@ck do I connect them all together? I still want to use the existing Oset batteries so is there a way to add connectors from the new battery pack to the existing connectors? If anyone has time to post pics on how to link the LiPos up and connect to bike or give me idiot proof instructions I would really appreciate it. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 (edited) Looks like you have bought the wrong batteries :-( You needed 4x 6S1P you can still use the one you have bought but it makes it a little more complicated as you will have to string 3 batteries in series then parallel them up ( so more connections and wires ) what connectors have you got on the bike and on your standard batterys at the moment ? are they xt60's , can you post a small pic up edit: or you can make 2x 48v packs each 8ah, which Will be a better way to go until you get the hang of lipo Edited June 16, 2014 by gwhy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 as you have 4S lipos and you want 48v then you will need to have this arrangement when connecting to the bike , it dont have to be exactly as in the picture but it should give you some idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stonezone Posted June 16, 2014 Report Share Posted June 16, 2014 PMSKI, See the parallel and series diagram that GWHY posted on the previous page for connecting your batteries to get the 12s. I'm not sue why you can't run them 12s2p to get 16000mAH (mine is 20000mAH) but GWHY is the guy who knows and can answer (I will overheat my motor before i hammer out my whole charge my pack). For parallel charging, you can make two cables, one that will parallel them all to charge, and another that you use to run them in series to connect to the controller. Here is a good place to get very high quality ones custom made if you want to go that route (he also has youtube videos descrying his cables). For my setup I balanced each battery first (important!!!) than just soldered the parallel sets together, and connected the series via solder so it's all one pack. I balance charge it each time and can still check each cell with the individual balance leads when i want. I connect it to the Oset with XT60 and replaced the stock connector with the same so you can just swap. If you haven't been to Endless-Sphere yet, go to the various forums and there are stickies for everything basic that you need to learn (and there's a lot). Take some time to read about it all, watch some youtube videos and once you get it all going you'll be really happy with the results. I'm about to put some 24" tires on mine, but have a vacation in between so it won't be for another month or so. I'll eventually put up photos of the entire build (including kellly controller install) when i'm done with everything but that won't be for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmski Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Looks like you have bought the wrong batteries :-( You needed 4x 6S1P you can still use the one you have bought but it makes it a little more complicated as you will have to string 3 batteries in series then parallel them up ( so more connections and wires ) what connectors have you got on the bike and on your standard batterys at the moment ? are they xt60's , can you post a small pic up edit: or you can make 2x 48v packs each 8ah, which Will be a better way to go until you get the hang of lipo Thanks GWHY - I am new to this and have no idea what the different battery specs are. I was given a shopping list by another member 'Frogger' who I know from the KTM forum. He bought and uses the same batteries I purchased. So are you suggesting I parallel 2 x batteries for now using only 4 of them in total? I have never used a wiring diagram so it doesn't mean a lot to me. All I want to do is plug the batteries together, charge and use them. If this involves changing the wiring on the bike then I will not be going ahead as I have absolutely no idea about electrics. Can you give me an idiots guide to what I do? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 (edited) each battery has a number of cells in them and each cell =3.7v and the batteries you have bought have 4 cells each battery so each battery = 14.8v so you will have to series 3 batteries together to make up a 44.4v ( 48v) battery ( I would have recommended 6 cell batteries as its one less connection to worry about and it makes things a bit easier when it comes to charging) , you can do this as in the diagram that I posted on this page. As you are new to all this I would suggest that you only use 3 lipo's at a time , Don't worry about parallel for the moment as this will get a bit more complicated. The wiring on the bike will not have to be changed but you will need to make a connecting lead ... similar to this one but with a xt60 connector so it fits into your existing plug on your bike, the lead in this pic has 6mm bullet connectors and you will need 4mm connectors instead so that 3 of your batteries can plug into the lead. You will have to unplug each of the 3 batteries from the lead to charge them. I dont know if Andy would approve of this shameless plug of what I do, but I do make and sale custom battery harnesses, and many other bits and pieces for electric bikes , so If you would like any help please drop me a PM. Edited June 17, 2014 by gwhy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwhy Posted June 17, 2014 Report Share Posted June 17, 2014 Just looking at the link for the batteries that you have bought it also looks like they have 5.5mm un-shrouded connectors ( be very careful not to cause a short! ) fitted as standard so you will need some 5.5mm bullet connectors to make your lead not 4mm as I suggested in the previous post. But to be honest I would fit shrouded plugs on the batteries for safety reasons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon0881 Posted July 15, 2014 Report Share Posted July 15, 2014 This is a great thread but I have to say im still uncertain about what to do. I get the whole series boosts V, parallel boosts Ah. Most of the links to the batteries are not available anymore from HK. For convenience (or utter laziness) would someone be able to make a kit list for 24v and 36V bikes with all the bits and pieces. My sons 36v kuberg trial e should be here soon and I want to make sure he gets his use out of it. Incidentally, I have a stash of batteries in work (from a UPS, I work in IT). would they work? Ive got 6 x Yuasa NP7-12 (12v,7ah) and 2 x gsb gp12120 f2 (12v,12Ah). From what ive understood from this thread I could series the 12v7ah batteries in 3 to get the 36v but then its still only 7ah. The standard kuberg SLA setup is 9ah. Saying I cant find any more of the 12v12Ah batteries could I series that up with the 7ah one? im guessing not...... Ive got a few of IBM/Lenovo laptop PSU's, im sure I read they can be used as PSU's for the chargers too. Luckily the free-rider ive got on order comes with lipo as standard so it should be easy to replicate that setup... /Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.