April 6, 201115 yr Ok was replacing my front pads and everything was going well, then start to bleed the system and the pistons wont move!!! No matter which way I try it they wont come out, so tried to split the case and low and behold the head of the bolt is chewed to bits Anyone got any ideas on how to free them,I was think compressed air but wont this damage the seals??? as always thanks guys Edited April 6, 201115 yr by ShercoJay
April 6, 201115 yr if the pistons ar fully in and you cant split the caliper using a compressor is the only way to do it.it wont damage the seals,we do it on car calipers all the time .hope this helps .
April 8, 201115 yr I just do not understand this Isuppose. Why would you want to bleed the brakes while replacing pads? And on a '10 model?
April 8, 201115 yr Author I just do not understand this Isuppose. Why would you want to bleed the brakes while replacing pads? And on a '10 model? I always change my brake fluid when I replace my pads cope!! Abit geeky I know but thats my maintance After a bit of messing about I think its the master cylinder because there's no pressure there
April 9, 201115 yr I always change my brake fluid when I replace my pads cope!! Abit geeky I know but thats my maintance After a bit of messing about I think its the master cylinder because there's no pressure there Oh, I see! Do you have a syringe, or anything else that you might use to fix this and use for other forms of self induced mutilation?
April 9, 201115 yr No matter which way I try it they wont come out, so tried to split the case and low and behold the head of the bolt is chewed to bits Get the calliper off and in a good vice. Cut a slot down the middle of the head of the bolt (not too deep) with metal cutting blade on and angle grinder. Then use an impact driver (fat screwdriver bit) to to undo the bolt. Then take the calliper halves to a car brake repair place and they'll pull the pistons out with ease. But I too can't understand why you'd need to do all this on such a new bike Best of balance. Neo Edited April 9, 201115 yr by Neo
April 9, 201115 yr all sorted !!! Sorry Jay but we can't let you off that lightly .... How did you sort it?.... a 10 page write up will do nicely Best of balance. Neo
April 9, 201115 yr Author On a 2010 bike Yep, thing is all the dirt and mud can easy get inside, its only a rubber boot that stops it
April 9, 201115 yr Yep, thing is all the dirt and mud can easy get inside, its only a rubber boot that stops it Correct me if I'm wrong but that's the same AJP MC that's been used on many Trials bikes for many years now. Most of which give little trouble. And that rubber boot you mentioned never lets anything go past it .....unless it was defective in some way or the two screws on the cap were loose ?? Best of balance. Neo
April 9, 201115 yr Author Well that's what am putting it down to, most of the time if you look the boot isn't really giving a seal! Only other thing I can think of is when I back bleeded it, this has pushed the seals out ??? But for 7 quid am not going to complain
April 9, 201115 yr 7 quid Did you buy a new MC and or just a new MC rubber boot? Best of balance. Neo Edited April 9, 201115 yr by Neo
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