atomant Posted March 29, 2005 Report Share Posted March 29, 2005 I have noticed on my Sherco 290 that even though it has a hydraulic clutch lever, the force required to operate it is similar to that of a cable system of old. Also, the bite point is only over a few degrees of lever movement and I find this unnecessarily difficult to control. I have looked at the design of the lever itself and feel this can be greatly improved upon. My question is does anyone know of a better hydraulic clutch lever that gives a wider degree of movement at the bite point and less force to operate? If not, I will design and produce one myself Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colly Posted March 29, 2005 Report Share Posted March 29, 2005 change the springs inside the clutch plates fit it with lighter springs,? or buy a longer lever blade for increased leverage meaning it will be easier to pull? or to make sure theres no muck or any thing in give it a bleed shouldt be this becasue if it was that it problys feel spongy and have no feel to it my sherco feels spot on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atomant Posted March 29, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2005 Hmmm, The clutch springs I could take a look at for sure. I didnt want to add any length to the lever as that would mean i would have to pull it in further from the fulcrum and that would mean of course my hand position would have to change to a wider position How much lever movement in degrees do you have in your setup from disengaged to engaged and do you get a nice smooth transition between the two states? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechitlins Posted March 29, 2005 Report Share Posted March 29, 2005 I have never heard a complaint about a Sherco clutch. They are easy to pull and progressive in their engagement. If your lever is that hard to pull, make sure the pivot bold isn't too tight. Only tighten it until it affects the lever. The locknut will stay on without tightening. If the clutch disengages when the lever is uncomfortably far from the bar, back out the adjuster that hits the plunger and run the other adjuster in. Be sure to leave a little slop. I have altered a couple levers so the clutch disengages with the lever *very* close to the handlebar, but this was for a child with small hands, and the lever can only be used with one finger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikespace Posted March 29, 2005 Report Share Posted March 29, 2005 I've got the 290 as well Ian. If we're at a trial together any time soon, then you can try mine to compare at least. I used to have problems with my 280 gasser tightening up over time, and it was (as has been mentioned), the clutch plates needed repacking/adjusting, but I've not had any bother with the Sherco at all (Yet). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atomant Posted March 29, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2005 (edited) Thanks for all your comments. I will take you up on that Hinters I think I will take a look at the clutch springs as that seems to be the obvious place to start from peoples comments. However, the current lever design is adjustable with a bolt & lock nut but i have noticed that the full travel of the piston is around 8mm. The actual movement of the piston to take the bike from stationary to full engagement is approximately 1.5mm. So my point is that i have 6.5mm of travel not doing anything. If i designed a lever which gave 2mm of travel instead of 8mm then i would have better clutch control I feel. I already have a design in mind so if the new lighter springs dont help, its off to the CAD workstation for me Edited March 29, 2005 by Webmonkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marky g Posted March 29, 2005 Report Share Posted March 29, 2005 For gods sake, don't let BS have a go on your's WM if you value your back shock! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atomant Posted March 29, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2005 (edited) Glad you said that Marky G Sorry HondaRS, I probally didnt make myself clear. What i can achieve in a new design is to get around 2mm of travel (instead of 8mm currently) on the hydraulic piston with the lever travelling the full distance as it does now. This means I can make an approximate 4:1 mechanical advantage decreasing the force required to pull the lever considerably. I expect for most people, their current setup works for them ok, but if your left hand isnt that strong then any lever which requires less effort should be a good thing. I need to do some more research first but i have no doubt this isnt very difficult to do Although you do make a good point about changing the master cylinder ! Edited March 29, 2005 by Webmonkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikespace Posted March 29, 2005 Report Share Posted March 29, 2005 I think although the design will be possible, and will definitely provide improvements as far as force required, it may be awkward to ride in practice. I could imagine for a kids bike, where you're trying to get them to feel for the clutch biting, then it may be useful, but for most of us, we don't want to be pulling the clutch in all the way each time. That may prove more tiring than the tougher small movements. You could design a 4 foot long kickstart Ian That would be much easier to kick over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atomant Posted March 29, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2005 (edited) Yeh sure, I agree .. peeps dont want to be pulling the lever full distance for sure. But currently, I have the opposite extreme.. I have next to no movement on the lever taking me from stationary to full engagement so somehwere in between is what i would like. As HondaRS mentioned, A good solution is to change the master cylinder but I dont know whats available on that so need to check that out.. Just for the sake of it, Ill do a design and post it on here in a week or two Edit: I have checked out the info from Sherco and they dont recommend pre-loading the piston and thats what i would have to do so a rethink is needed A 4ft kick start .. Could do that but Marky G reckons that if you jump on that the bike would do a 360 degree spin Edited March 29, 2005 by Webmonkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikespace Posted March 29, 2005 Report Share Posted March 29, 2005 Fair one. I reckon if you try mine, you'll probably see that yours maybe needs a revamp internally. The clutch plate kits are pretty cheap from memory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atomant Posted March 29, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2005 Whos the person we use for spares for sherco's in our area m8? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikespace Posted March 29, 2005 Report Share Posted March 29, 2005 I go to David Jones Newtown 01686 625010 Mainly because of Graham Evans and how much he puts in to trials locally. Good to give him some back. He's marking out the Welsh Trophy this weekend, ever involved with Mid Wales ACU, etc etc Doesn't often ride himself, but puts the work in constantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atomant Posted March 29, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2005 Ok, i just gave them a ring and he will get back to me in the morning with a price and availability of a clutch set Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bikespace Posted March 29, 2005 Report Share Posted March 29, 2005 He should be able to give you a good idea of the measurements for the clutch plates to confirm if they have gone out of spec. I've not had to do it with the Sherco yet, but the GasGas was an absolute definite. If the clutch was getting tight, the spec was always off. Worth checking before you splash out your hard earned maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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