Adjusting rider position on a 72 MAR

[yellow_cad]

Right now I have a pretty much stock 72 MAR. It has what appears to be a stock four inch high bar and stock foot pegs. I am new to trials but I believe that I want to be slightly more erect. I have read it suggested to move the pegs down appx. three inches (weld plate to frame) for a lower center of gravity, but I have also been told that it is better to raise the handle bars instead and leave the peg height stock to maintain clearance to the side of the skid plate. Any suggestions whether to go up (raise handle bars), or down (lower pegs), or both would be appreciated. I do plan to modernize the pegs (wider and springs), but wanted to get the whole picture before going one way or the other on the improvements. Also would appreciate any recommendation as to height changes. Right now I'm not too sure if two inches is enough or three inches is too much. I am around six foot and pretty much average for that height. Is there any type of formula that I can use in getting at least a good static position?

[lineaway]

wider pegs are fine, try 6 inch bars. Sounds more like you need to learn trials first. The bike was fine in stock trim, just takes alot of practice.

[woody]

These bikes (most 70s bikes) used to come with bars that were around 7 or 8" high, which is why the riding position didn't feel wrong. Plus we were a lot younger then and young bones and joints wouldn't have noticed if it did. The pegs were always set high as that is what was thought right back then to keep them clear of obstacles. Also, riding styles back then were different and with the higher pegs the bike was easier easier to move around on in the no-stop style. A good illustration of that is to watch Dave Thorpe in the video clip of the 1976 Superstars trial on the front page.

Now, the style is to stand in the bike and remain upright rather than move around, as the bikes are more point and squirt and hop the wheels to turn.

If you can find some higher bars you will restore the riding position to how it was. Or you can keep lower bars but fit rising blocks under the clamps, although if you go too high with them the steering can lose some feel. That may be an illusion but it is definitely an impression you can get.

Or, lower the pegs. This definitely makes the bike feel more stable as your weight is lower and the bike is balanced better, but you are still able to move around on the bike 'old style' if needs be.

All three methods can give you the same dimension between hands and feet, but lowering the pegs gives the greater stability when riding.

In the end though, it's personal preference.

MAR frames come up on ebay quite often, or in bike breakers. Why not get a second frame and alter the footrest position on that.

[yellow_cad]

These bikes (most 70s bikes) used to come with bars that were around 7 or 8" high, which is why the riding position didn't feel wrong. Plus we were a lot younger then and young bones and joints wouldn't have noticed if it did. The pegs were always set high as that is what was thought right back then to keep them clear of obstacles. Also, riding styles back then were different and with the higher pegs the bike was easier easier to move around on in the no-stop style. A good illustration of that is to watch Dave Thorpe in the video clip of the 1976 Superstars trial on the front page.

Now, the style is to stand in the bike and remain upright rather than move around, as the bikes are more point and squirt and hop the wheels to turn.

If you can find some higher bars you will restore the riding position to how it was. Or you can keep lower bars but fit rising blocks under the clamps, although if you go too high with them the steering can lose some feel. That may be an illusion but it is definitely an impression you can get.

Or, lower the pegs. This definitely makes the bike feel more stable as your weight is lower and the bike is balanced better, but you are still able to move around on the bike 'old style' if needs be.

All three methods can give you the same dimension between hands and feet, but lowering the pegs gives the greater stability when riding.

In the end though, it's personal preference.

MAR frames come up on ebay quite often, or in bike breakers. Why not get a second frame and alter the footrest position on that.

Wow!! That fantastic little clip is a real education. Those guys were flying by today's standards.

I'm 65, my bikes almost 40, I'm not trying to set the world on fire just have fun with a new interest. After watching that film, my first question is if you're an older guy with an older bike do you try to do trials the way they did when they designed the bike or do you use the older bike and the newer methods? It looks like two different animals. With my different motorcycles and cars, I am sort of a purest at heart but I don't know what would make sense for getting the most out of trials on a twin shock bike.

[woody]

As you can see from that clip, the sort of sections your bike would have had to deal with in national and international events are way harder than anything it will come up against in todays classic events or the easy route in a modern bike event. And the shocks and tyres weren't as good then either.

It's all about being comfortable on the bike. The bike itself is fine in standard trim for what you are going to be doing on it. See if you can get hold of some 7 - 8" bars first in terms of the riding position as it's the easiest change.

Great clip isn't it. Always makes me smile when I read or hear that the sections in some classic events today are put on for the modern bikes. People forget what these bikes had to do back in 'their day'. That was a hard trial. If the then world champ lost 70 odd marks to win it, your average clubman on a modern bike today wouldn't have finished the first lap.

[chewy]

all the above surprised nobody has picked up on your phrase "I am new to trials but I believe that I want to be slightly more erect." you got away with it well done.

[copemech]

Lern to drop the knees! You cannor ride rigid!