Found this local to me and was wondering if anyone can give me any hints and tips I should look out for? http://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/sherco-250cc-trials-bike/88931391

Judging by the angle of the rear mudguard you need to check if the rear subframe is bent.

Also, get the bike on a work stand & check for play in the rear suspension linkage, this can cost

Hi Little-Yoshi,

I can only presume that the reason for the lack of replies here is because that bike looks like it's had a hard life and no-one fancies getting involved? ...but... (it's been a slow day at the office):-

Do the usual basic inspections for excess play in the headstock bearings (up againgst a wall)/rear swing-arm linkage bearings (put it on a beer crate)/wheel bearings ( lateral play at the wheel rim) etc..

Suspension check for smooth operation ( don't expect too much it's a Sherco ) just lack of clonks/seepage/weepage etc..

Check the motor starts easily enough from cold/hot.

Listen for 'swishy' main bearings after you've shut the throttle.If it's really bad you'll hear a big difference when you cant the bike over with the engine running.

Check for a steady idle with the choke off (worst case scenario---dodgy stator).

Check for overheating (exhaust and radiator)...and a positive progressive clutch action.

There's probably more but I can't think of them at the mo'.

EDIT reason= I realise that t-shock 250 posted while I was composing

Wayne

Edited December 1, 201114 yr by HAM2

It looks that bad? Thought it was all right to me. Think the mudgard got left leaning against something as it happened on my old bike and could never get it right again(till I snapped it), Will have a play on it before I buy it tho.

For that price the machine does not look bad at all, as long as the engine is not too noisey as previously posted. Dont think it looks rough for the year. I have had many trials bikes over the decades from twinshock to modern with a twist like that in the rear fender, which did not go any deeper (damage wise, frame or anything else). Definetley worth a look I would say.

For that price the machine does not look bad at all, as long as the engine is not too noisey as previously posted. Dont think it looks rough for the year. I have had many trials bikes over the decades from twinshock to modern with a twist like that in the rear fender, which did not go any deeper (damage wise, frame or anything else). Definetley worth a look I would say.

I looked at the pics, basic thoughts as above. For the price range, if it seems to run fine, well, anything else can be sorted.

All my bikes from those years had twisty mudguards from new!

Thought i'd bump an old thread than start a new one.

Im looking at a 2005 290 sherco 'project' tomorrow night.

apparently the bloke has changed the main bearings, side seals, and used a conrod kit, bit and small bearings plus rings.

he recon's it runs well now, but says its still alittle noisey but thinks all sherco's are???? is that right?

I also wondered if there is a thread for age identification from the frame? as i cant seem to find one??

I know to check for bearing and swinging arm play etc when i view the bike. but is there anything sherco related that i isn't covered above???

Cheers for the advise in advance

Matt

Thought i'd bump an old thread than start a new one.

Im looking at a 2005 290 sherco 'project' tomorrow night.

apparently the bloke has changed the main bearings, side seals, and used a conrod kit, bit and small bearings plus rings.

he recon's it runs well now, but says its still alittle noisey but thinks all sherco's are???? is that right?

I also wondered if there is a thread for age identification from the frame? as i cant seem to find one??

I know to check for bearing and swinging arm play etc when i view the bike. but is there anything sherco related that i isn't covered above???

Cheers for the advise in advance

Matt

So he did main bearings, crank seals, conrod kit(lower end job) and put small end bearing and a ring set init?

Bottom line, pistons can be a bit slappy when warm i think this normal, but you must be the judge here. Sure a fresh one is best, but too hard to say. Not to confuse with clutch rattle!

I think in the serial number it should say TR5 unless it was built late in '04 and may say TR4 before the last digits.

Edited January 19, 201214 yr by copemech

So he did main bearings, crank seals, conrod kit(lower end job) and put small end bearing and a ring set init?

Bottom line, pistons can be a bit slappy when warm i think this normal, but you must be the judge here. Sure a fresh one is best, but too hard to say. Not to confuse with clutch rattle!

I think in the serial number it should say TR5 unless it was built late in '04 and may say TR4 before the last digits.

Hi Copemech,

Thanks for that. The guy told me that his done a 'conrod kit' which included: big, little ends and piston rings. Along with the mains and side seals. The guy recons that its still alittle noisey but put that down to the normal piston slap that is heard. But thought i'd ask here to check.

I'll check the serial number, i think its 8th digit TR4/5 will tell.

Im off to look at it tonight so fingers crossed its a workable project