Looking for a little guidance and this would seem the place to be, I have recently bought a rough Tiger cub with the notion of humiliating myself in some pre 65 trials. However the more I look into this the more difficult it seems to be to know what to options to take in setting it up. The first hurdle was actually easier than anticipated, I started it at the weekend and the engine and gearbox seem okay. I bought a 4.00 trials tyre to check if it would fit and seems okay in what I believe is the wider swinging arm except for the chain running very, very close to the tyre. I think I will try and mover the engine over a few mm and I also notice that there is a front sprocket available with an off set to bring the chain out, does anyone know how much this offset is?

Actually I have lots of questions so might as well just post them all together, the gearbox is standard road gearing I believe, what size sprockets would be best? Is it worthwhile fitting the low second gear option I have also noticed that it is available? The forks are 30mm Japanese, XL 125 or similar, are these viable? I do have the severely decomposed original forks and yolks. The wheelbase is around 50.5

It should be "simple" alas it's a minefield a controversial one at that

Good luck youve picked what is argueably out of the most complicated bikes to make into a competitive trials bike. Hope youve got deep pockets.

I think you need to ask yourself the following questions:

What sort of competitions do you want to do? i.e beginners and wobblers club trials to pre 65 championship rounds

What mechanical ability and facilities do you have?

What sort of budget do you have?

Then do some research by attending pre 65 trials like the Talmag (where most people are more than happy to talk about their bikes), look on ebay for parts and complete bike prices and go to Autojumbles (bigger the better) to pick up the bits you need.

Personally, I'd get the bike running reliably as it is and ride it to see if you like riding 'classic' bikes before spending too much money.

There are some photo's of my recently completed Cub on this forum which cost me in the region of £2K in parts alone! You can buy a really nice modern bike for that sort of money and require a fraction of the fettling and maintenance.

Even though I have just swapped my spare cub parts for a modern bike for modern club trials, I still wouldn't part with the Cub for the pre 65 stuff, but then I like playing in my shed!

Edited January 9, 201214 yr by brucey

Thanks chaps,

Yes i think i might have a re-assessment, i rather like working on bikes and am fairly competent so that is part of the fun but the difficult part seems to be where to draw the line. My thoughts are that you just have to go your own way so i think that will be the plan.

Thanks chaps,

Yes i think i might have a re-assessment, i rather like working on bikes and am fairly competent so that is part of the fun but the difficult part seems to be where to draw the line. My thoughts are that you just have to go your own way so i think that will be the plan.

I would just like to add that you can build a really nice Trials Cub which would be more than competitive at pre 65 club level for very reasonable money. Believe me, I've seen them!

The trick is (and I may offend some purists here) to get the expensive bits like forks, ally wheels and tank (ty 175) from old twinshock bikes and adapt them to fit a Cub. I have used a set of 1970's Montesa forks on my bike and fitted Taper Headstock Bearings and the Montesa ally billet Yolks at the same time at a total cost of about

I would just like to add that you can build a really nice Trials Cub which would be more than competitive at pre 65 club level for very reasonable money. Believe me, I've seen them!

The trick is (and I may offend some purists here) to get the expensive bits like forks, ally wheels and tank (ty 175) from old twinshock bikes and adapt them to fit a Cub. I have used a set of 1970's Montesa forks on my bike and fitted Taper Headstock Bearings and the Montesa ally billet Yolks at the same time at a total cost of about

the basics for a competant cub that is eligble for 99% of pre 65 clubs are actually fairly simple.

you d want a later engine ( square for fashion not for function), a well sorted amal concentric carb, nicely set up heavyweight cub or c15 forks, new rear shocks ( any new trials shocks would be better than std..) miller footrests and brackets domino slow throttle wide rear swingarm , alloy rims and electronic ignition..

that should be good enough to ride through all clubs p65 sections and certainly even in an ultra competative club would be enough for a good rider to place well on.

i wrote an article for the club news letter describing the mods done to a std bike that was then used to win the welsh experts trial in the early sixties and the mods were very basic very..

the basics for a competant cub that is eligble for 99% of pre 65 clubs are actually fairly simple.

you d want a later engine ( square for fashion not for function), a well sorted amal concentric carb, nicely set up heavyweight cub or c15 forks, new rear shocks ( any new trials shocks would be better than std..) miller footrests and brackets domino slow throttle wide rear swingarm , alloy rims and electronic ignition..

that should be good enough to ride through all clubs p65 sections and certainly even in an ultra competative club would be enough for a good rider to place well on.

i wrote an article for the club news letter describing the mods done to a std bike that was then used to win the welsh experts trial in the early sixties and the mods were very basic very..

This letter should be compulsory reading for every Cub owner.....

Anyone know where I can get a copy of the article as I am in the process of buiding a cub myself and need all the help I can get.