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Overheating


wrmec
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Hello. Wenever I seem to really rev my bike like going up steep hills for example it puts a lot of water and steam out of the pipe from the top of the radiator. Does anyone know wat this could be . I dont thinks its the radiator finding its level because I havnt full it recently. Thanks

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Check your rad cap seal. also I've seen leaky inner head orings do that. The orings not only keep the water out of the jug - but pressure out of the cooling system . More often than not - its the cap seal though.

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mine spits out a few ounces when i top it off (i inspect it before every ride, and it always is low) and then ride hard for 15 min or so. it seems to stop p****** after those few ounces are gone but it looks lower than it should... maybe i have a leaky cap too or this is just common. I have gone through a couple of water pumps but this one seems to be holding. My fan is working fine but starting to squeal a little and I'll replace the motor next few weeks.

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MIne spits when I top it off too. I was concerned so I put a little plastic bottle on as an overflow tank for testing. Turns out it would leak out about an ounce then stop. If I top up it repeats. If I leave it alone it doesn't spit anymore. Took off the overflow and now I check it about once a month.

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Yes, fan failure is fairly common. This can happen from age but is more likely to happen if the bike has been pressure washed a lot. Pressure washing will force dirt and water past the normal seals and cause wear and failure of bearings, etc. I do not recommend pressure washing unless you enjoy replacing parts often.

The fan is controlled by a temperature switch that is in line with the upper radiator hose. When the temperture is high the switch closes and the fan gets power. There are really three ways a fan can not work:

1) the switch has failed

2) the fan has failed

3) the wiring has come disconnected so the power is not making a complete circuit.

I would start with a simple visual test to look for broken or disconnected wires.

To test the temp switch, disconnect the wires from the back of the switch and connect them together. Start the bike and see if the fan is running. If yes, the switch is the problem. If no, then the fan motor is likely the problem.

To test the fan motor, disconnect the wires form the motor and connect the fan wires directly to a 12 volt DC source such as a car battery. The fan should start instantly. If yes, then the motor is good so search for a broken or disconnected wire that was not readily visible in the first check.

If the motor does not start with direct power it is bad. You may be able to bring it back to life with some WD40 sprayed into the bushings but maybe not. Then it is time to read the sticky at the top of this forum about replacing the motor.

Good luck!

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The switch I believe he is referring to is, the thermostatic (temp) controlled switch. the 06 should have it in the radiator, held in place with a C-Clip, and yeah they can go bad. BUT: If there is not water covering this, fan might not come on, and if waterpump is NOT pumping, it might take too long to turn on!

To test for bad thermostat there are 2 ways... 1 NOTE: this switch interupts the path to ground. So what we do is, jumper those wires together, either paperclip or physically together... This thermostat only disrupts the path to ground when "cold" so not much to worry about , but don't be silly with your jumper, be neat, if you know what I am saying... now when you connect the wires with jumper or other means (I use a paperclip, I even was known to keep one taped to our bikes in the past, for emergencies for you or friend's bike). (edit forgot #2)

2 put thrmostat in hot water, test that resistance is close to 0 ohms (switch closed), when cold ohms are innfinity (open)

Now, when you start the engine, if voltage is there, the FAN will run all the time while engine is running. IF fan doesn't turn on, try to spin fan (CARFUL Doing this, DONT LOSE A FINGER) if it still doesnt work, you might have no voltage From the voltage rectifier thingy that converts the 24+ volt "pulses" to usable 12-18v I think it is, that will run the fan.

Then last test you can do easily is what "thatsafive" said, find both wires that goto the fan, touch them to a 12 battery, if that is the only time the fan works, you probably have a bad rectifier...

Parts manuals here (http://www.gasgasmot.../manuals/3.html)

Voltage from the lighting coils in flywheel area is not perfect DC, so they have a "rectifier" or "converter" some call it, in that black box up by the radiator..

PS! Take pictures when you start to mess with this stuff (wiring) so you get it back like it was, I take pictures before I disturb ANYTHING under the tank, if it is your first time, so you can get it all packed back in there like it was, trust me, getting it all stuff back in that little area is a chore once you pull everything out, if you dont have a photographic memory, lol.

Edited by sting32
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