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Sherco 2009 - Rear End Questions !


lewis cosgrove
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Just a few stupid questions :)

1) Should the bolts of the Delta Link be very tight, or will it effect the movement of the linkage? Mine are not that tight.

2) Do you adjust the sag using the two large ring adjusters of the rear shock, or the damper screw?

I was just reading there on the Sherco 2009 Manuel

Hydraulic regulation. (Rear Shock)

Recommended: screw all and unscrew

two clicks

I have miss read this and have mine at unscrewed right out and screwed in 2, as that is the same as the front forks.

Is that really what they recommend, would that not make the rear end dead?

Sorry for the brain fart! :P

Edited by lewis cosgrove
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1- Tight

2- Rings for sag try for 20-25mm static would be about right.

2-3 click range sounds right, but I cannot recall which direction, and the Spanish translation may be incorrect. If so yours will be dead as a doornail!

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1 - Tight

2 - loosen locking ring which is the one furthest from the spring and then wind in/tighten the adjustment ring to increase spring preload/lessen the sag or wind out/loosen to increase the amount of sag. Try about 20-25mm with you standing on the pegs of the bike. Tighten the locking ring back up to the adjustment ring when setting is done.

3 - The Hydraulic regulation/damping is normall screwed clockwise all the way in to just tight then reverse out at least 2 -3 clicks but this will depend on how much you weigh and how much you like how quick/slow the "bounce" speed is. Try 2 -3 turn and ride a bit then try 6 - 8 turns and see if you notice the difference.

Hope this helps Lewis.

Edited by bishyfishy
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  • 8 months later...
 

I've got a 2010 and am wondering about setup. I'm 190lbs without gear and can bottom it pretty harsly when I drop more than a couple feet. Not sure preload is gonna cut it - probably will need different springs?

You may be sort of "inbetween" for a heavier spring, so first I would follow the suggestions posted in the recent thread on the 2011 shock to find out if the unit is actually working, as his was not! You may want a bit more damping dialed in if it is working.

What color is your spring?

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Hi, iv got a issue with my bike that i think could be related to the rear shocker? It dosnt seem to grip at the rear end as it should and im thinking the rear spring is adjusted up too much? Is it a possibility that i could slacken the large nuts to increse sag to give it more grip? I have a new tyre , slow action throttle ect ect ...

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You should be able to adjust the spring off for more sag although the photo on splatshops site of the shock shows less thread than the earlier models, get hold of splatshop about the recommended spring length when off the bike

How has the damping adjuster been set?

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You need some static sag(weight of bike only) in the 25 mm or so range, adjust damping to taste, there needs some to slow things down to grip without bouncing off everything, so slow it down then bring back as your skill requires. A pogo stick is good for hopping, but not for finding grip!

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so does the spring need to be longer in theory for better grip? Do i need to remove the shocker from the bike to adjust it or is there a way of doing this while its fitted?

Yes, if it is too tight it will not float over bumps and maintain grip, kicks up and off loosing grip. The damping slows this kickback to maintain contact.

With the bike set vertical under its own weight, the rear should kinda float up and down when gently moving the mudguard, and the 25-30 mm measure from pulling full up.

I do not know the year, and shock orientation varies, so adjusting the rings for the spring does as well, ideally one has a spanner that fits the adjustment rings, others use a screwdriver to tap them around, some years use a small allen set screw to lock the nut so you must find it before turning or you will mess up the threads. ALLWAYS adjust with bike on stand and weight off the shock,

The standard preload on my later model spring is only about 5mm or so from full out. Half a turn on the ring makes a difference.

And once again, you may want to test your shock by removing it, then the spring and insuring it requires 60-70 lbs to compress it against the gas pressure inside and that it does indeed have fluid damping and smooth operation on the return, because if it is nackered, you will never find grip with it.

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