Just changed condensor and moved to under tank,still no spark all joints soldered and fresh wire. Ive not changed the points could it be those? There seems to be no current from the stator area at all I checked for voltage with a multi-meter.

Does these windings fail ie like my beta one?

Any Ideas more than welcome or any willing volunteers to come and have a look Lytham st annes area.

Okay, did you ever check the ground??!

I take it you mean where the coil joins the frame. Will check that now. Thanks

Clean the points with a piece of white paper between the contact points. Any dirt will keep the points from closing and making spark. Check with a omh meter to see if the points are making contact. The hd coil must be mounted to clean bare metal. Unhook the kill swicth. Check the plug cap with a ohm meter that it is not open. Hope this helps Good luck

It sounds like a weekend in the workshop going back to basics. You obviously took the flywheel off to get the condenser out, did the woodruff key reseat correctly ? The points may have the rose gardener's "black spot" if they are old so check that. Check the wiring from the stator plate as this often goes brittle where it lies on the top of the engine cases. Personally I always remove the two yellow lighting wires and fit a new black wire all the way up to the top coil. Keep the kill switch disconnected until sparks have been found. If you have recently fitted new points make sure they are shiney as some of the OEM ones come with a sort of teflon coating that must be removed before fitting. Good earth on the frame is essential as everyone says. What sort of plug cap are you using ? If its a rubber screw on one then have a look at the HT wire and make sure thats bright and not rusty or cut it back 1/4" to be sure. Plug should be NGK B9ES or a B7ES will do and set at about 22 thou. Yes, the source coil can fail on the stator plate and new ones are around 50 quid but before going to all that expense find a friend with a TY175 and do some swappsies, stator plate, top coil, etc to find the problem...... frustrating I know, but very satisfying when you find the problem which is often something very simple!

Tony

Cleaned and reset the points and the bike ran first kick for about 10 secs revved out normally then died spark gone again. no spark at plug at all.

Thanks for all your help!

Did you check the cam on the flywheel that opens and closes the points? It should be clean and smooth or it will wear the points quickly.

Sometimes coils will work or not work due to temperatures. A heat gun and or cold water to the coil may help you check that.

Cleaned and reset the points and the bike ran first kick for about 10 secs revved out normally then died spark gone again. no spark at plug at all.

Thanks for all your help!

think you are answering your own question. It's something to do with the points. Check cam clean and clean and reset points and try again. One other thing that I remember when I had bikes with points was that sometime the points could short out to earth if the insulator washers / spacers etc were not inserted correctly same with the condenser and wire. All worth checking cos if it started and ran if only for 10 secs then stopped at least you have narrowed it down. Good luck.

That sounds quite logical as my son dropped some of the washers off the points and i just replaced, didnt think of what order they went in. I will look today and try and check but difficult knowing what order they go in now they have been off.

Thanks

this is from a ty250 1977 but could be the directions you need.

if I remember right the washers might be insulating ones. Best to check.

Edited August 3, 201313 yr by old trials fanatic