crusoe123 Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Hi, I recently broke the rear lever (original gas gas), and I have replaced it with a patent part. However, I have now managed to bend a further three of these patent parts. I was wondering has anyone modified the original part, as I want to buy an OEM lever this time, but I really could do without breaking another one. Has anyone got any tips for setting these up, should I be getting the front wheel higher whilst going over slabs of concrete. (eastern centre rider, so no rocks just slabs of concrete instead at certain venues). Any help or tips on modifying would be great. Thanks Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thats_a_five Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 My first thought is: stop trying to move slabs of concrete with your brake pedal! What are the circumstances when you bend or break them? Riding over, crashing, riding to close along side the concrete? If you are bending them while simply riding up and over, how is the pedal adjusted? The pedal should be above the skid plate, thus it should not be contacting the concrete. If it is when you are riding close to the concrete, is the pedal too far out from the bike so it is catching on the concrete? if so, can you adjust (bend) it closer to the case? If the brake pedal was not in the way, the next thing to hit would be the foot peg. Pegs rarely break, they are designed to fold up. If you hit so close that the peg mount hits the concrete, it can easily pitch you off when the bike suddenly stops. Can you ride a few inches to the left to give more clearance between the concrete and the lever? If not, then a wheelie will raise the front of the bike, thus raising the shift lever some also. You say you have bent several brake levers this way. Can't you bend then back into shape? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guys Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Could you post a picture? Normally the brake lever shouldn't touch anything when you ride over a slab... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huski Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 the aftermarket pedals are softer than the originals,and are easier to bend.The 2011 pedal sticks out a long way,making it more vulnerable.The earlier model pro pedal fits with a bit of fettling,is almost straight and is more resistant to twisting and damage and is cheaper,but easier to miss with your boot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inchhigh Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 I agree with husky. the lever sticks out to far the earlier lever is alot better and easy to fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crusoe123 Posted January 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 Thanks for the tips, what year are you thinking of when you say earlier lever? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
huski Posted January 16, 2014 Report Share Posted January 16, 2014 pre 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadof2 Posted January 17, 2014 Report Share Posted January 17, 2014 I don't know if its possible on a pro but on motocrossers I used to link the front of the brake pedal to the frame forward of the pedal with a loop of throttle inner cable or similar.The cable had just enough slack to allow the brake to operate it. The cable stopped bits of brush getting between the pedal and the case and prevented the pedal being bent back if it stuck something hard like a post or other bike Another mod to protect gear levers is to make a triangular deflector with a large base and stick it to the engine / flywheel cover with a good layer of silicone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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