bultacorock Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 (edited) If anyone has time to look at some photos of my clutch setup and how it looks, can you tell from side view if the plates are all steel ? Its just that the clutch drags. and my arms were getting really pumped up waiting for my go at the sections so by the time it was my turn i could hardly hold on to my bike ...... Did spot a few things like the side stand needs a bigger foot and the rear brake is about as good as the one i had on my raleigh chopper but the engine brake-ing is really good and the front brake helped make sure im made the turns at the bottom of the big hill in stead of running every one over who were mad enough to stand in my way. I have just done my first trials event / first ride off road ride in 30 years ( apart from round the garden ) all in the same day. Ho what fun i had trying to get the hang of things again. I did the white route at the local club lots of nice new bikes and some great lads with tips to help me on my first day back. My Bultaco went really well 1/2 a kick to start it when warm. By the last lap i could ride most of the sections. First few laps i was going a bit too slow at first but it was all i could manage. Really i need to trust the force more ...... Ok 2nd gear and my right hand - it kept getting me in trouble on the first laps. but once i could manage 2nd and got better at aim and fire me and my bike out the end cards things changed and i had even more fun. Any way if i can get the clutch working better if not then i will be spending even more time working out .... Thank as always for all the feed back BR Edited June 2, 2014 by bultacorock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boghopper350 Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 It looks like all but one of the gaps between the metal plates with tangs on is solid,is that the case. Also can you see friction material or does everything look to be metal? what oil are you using? good to hear that you are back on two wheels:-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bultacorock Posted June 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 Hi Boghopper350 I have been using castrol ATF 300cc I have been readying old post and some say 250cc. what do you find works for you.When i had a look i could not tell if they were all steel or not, we were just looking to see if it looked like it had been hammered or if any thing was lose. Which clutch plates do you have in your bikes Had a great day out it was sunny and dry which was a big help. in the end i left the bike in 1st till the rider in front of me went then started the bike most seemed to keep there bikes running when they were in line. Thanks for you feed back BR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boghopper350 Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 Nice to hear about people enjoying themselves. We use original clutches and find that they work well, I have one engine that has a sharp clutch. 300 ml atf works well for most. Have you set the clutch as in some of the earlier posts? As long as you follow the advice given by woody etc, you should find that helps. Esp check that the plates are true, actuator arm is at 90°, also check that all components are present / assembled correctly. Also as we spoke about before, leavers are an important factor. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woody Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 From your picture, the spring tensioning nuts are wound pretty far in and so is the pushrod adjuster. It could be the clutch needs re-setting as it could have too much tension on the springs to release properly. If you search the Bultaco forum for clutch adjustment or setting up clutch etc. there have been previous topics with good info on how to do it correctly. It's possible to get a Sherpa clutch to work with quite a light one/two finger pull on the lever. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markg Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 Agree with what everyone says. Following worked for me on my 199A and 199B. I used fibre clutch plates, M49 springs (shorter and softer), backed spring adjustment nuts off all the way possible just short of touching case. Made my clutch one finger with no slip. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullylover Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 I find that the clutch springs work well at four turns out. Screw them up firm but not tight and back them off four full turns and try that. I have also used four and a half turns out but you have to have a very good clutch to do that. It also looks like you might be short a ball bearing between the pushrod and the mushroom end. Have a look and see if there is a ball bearing on the end of the pushrod. Graham. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bultacorock Posted June 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 Thanks for all the feed back, i have been reading the old posts on clutch setup but did not know what to look for but have a better idea now. Hi Boghopper350 yes im happy with my levers now and glad you talked me into keeping them Hi Woody thanks for telling what i should be looking for always a big help. I use your kick start method 1/2 a fast push and she start when warm and 2 full from cold, handelbar turned out the way, levers upside down. Hi Markg thanks for the tips. Hi Bullylover Thanks for the setup tips its a really big help i will set it up just like that, i was thinking the adjusting screw looks a long way in but did not know if that was good or bad. so am i right in thinking that might be the ball is missing. I have a lot to learnThanks again. i got my Dellorto need all new rubbers because mikuni was oversized both sides will fit it for my next event, all my pocket money is going on my bike. BR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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