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"It took a bit of getting going, and with the amount of mud that was caked around the carb I knew it was too much of a risk and was going to take too much time to strip it down."

"From then on in it was just a case of trying to keep it running and to try to get through the remaining sections, but I knew I was in trouble when I had to push out of three of the last six sections, and it is those nine marks that have cost me."

The above is what Dougie said after the Scott so Dabster, if I am wrong at least I am in good company. I observed in the 1998 Scott (a very wet one) and I helped quite a number of riders get their flooded bike going again. An easily accessible drain screw would have been a huge help. You do not have to strip the carb to get water out of the fine jets. Just remove the slow running screw, stick an overflow pipe in the hole and blow through it, of course those with practical trials knowledge will already know that.

What tends to happen when you drown your bike is that not only does the carb get water in but the airbox and filter (and even the tank) as well and without a big strip down and equipment and time it is nearly impossible to dry them properly and water works its way into the carb so you have to strip it again, and again and again. With an accessible drain screw as soon as you feel water affecting performance, you just slacken it slightly to let a little dribble out, blip the throttle to encourage any water droplet to vibrate out, nip up the screw and you are on your way again in under a minute.

As Guys said adding a screw is not going to break the bank, Give me a drain screw over a set of pointlessly adjustable forks any day.

Funny how all my low cost industrial engines on Wacker, compressor, pressure washer etc all have effective float bowl drain screws but my multi thousand £ trials bikes do not.

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