arfur Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 (edited) Hi all, Am I right in thinking that if I undo the drain bolt near the bottom of the fork in the picture it should allow the oil to drain out? I have undone both sides and nothing comes out. I guess this means there us no oil in them or is there some other reason nothing comes out? Edited October 31, 2015 by arfur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Either it`s plugged or you need to remove the top nut. Even if it was empty, some should come out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cleanorbust Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 If there was a lack of damping in the fork action before you tried draining the oil it would indicate there's none in there. Sometimes you have to pump the forks up and down after removing the drain screws to get it to come out. This has the combined bonus of leaving a line of oil across your garage floor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arfur Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Thanks for the replies. I will take the bolt and and push the forks up and down. You can never have too much oil on the floor!! How much tension on the top nut is there. As in will I end up with a hole in the garage roof when the last thread goes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cleanorbust Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Definitely get the bike onto a box or stand so there's no weight on the front wheel as you undo the fork top caps, and keep a downward pressure on them to avoid damage to the threads, which are very fine, as the cap comes to the end of its thread. Similarly take care not to cross-thread them as you start to screw them in again. I like to use a socket with small extension bar (without the socket handle) to ensure the fork cap is square on to the fork as you get it started, again with no weight on the front of the bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cleanorbust Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Should have added to above post: remember to undo the pinch bolts in the top yokes before trying to undo the fork caps. Hope that doesn't sound insultingly obvious! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pro sport Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Hi Dale Get the bike on a stand or box then take the front wheel out, undo the top nut on each leg - you will find just about an inch of compression on the spring inside so it won't be too forceful. Then undo the screw at the rear of the lower fork leg, put a container under the leg but covering the hole and push the leg up and down and this will pump the oil out into the container, when it is fully drained replace the screw and add 200 ml of 10 grade fork oil, recap an carry out same operation to other leg then replace front wheel. Take off of stand and pump the front suspension up and down until the damping action returns. Did you get the carb over run/ rich mixture sorted? Cheers Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arfur Posted November 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2015 Finally got time to look at this. I drained the oil by pumping the forks as you all suggested. It only had 100ml in the left hand leg and 75ml in the right hand leg. No obvious huge leaks on the seals so I guess somebody was playing with oil levels in the past. I have charged it with 200ml in each and it feels much firmer, Have a trial next Sunday so will see what it goes like/ Dave, regarding the carb over run / rich mixture. I am still having issues. It still takes about 2-3 seconds to get back down to idle after a hand full of throttle. I replaced gasket on the carb along with the o rings on the idle and air screw. Also flattened off the carb outlet flange and fitted a new o ring there too. Doesn't seem to have changed much. I am largely suspecting the crank seals again as I did not get a full charge of oil out of the clutch side although I know there are a couple of places that the oil gets stuck behind in the casing, Running fully synthetic oil at 40:1 and still a very black plug. The main bearings sounded fairly noisy but I forgot to check for any play so I might strip it down again and see what play there is. Thanks Dale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pro sport Posted November 21, 2015 Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 Hi Dale I've got some carb info for you , see you at Crimplesham tomorrow I'm riding @ 74, and you can have a go on mine to see how they compare. Cheers Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arfur Posted November 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 Hi Dave, Excellent. See you there I'm #18 Thanks Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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