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konrad

EFI OSSA Notebook (Formerly TR280i Wiring Diagram Annotated in English)

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I am so grateful for the help I received with my gearbox I want to give something back to this forum. 

I'm a retired electrical engineer and a hobbyist machinist.  I have done a fair amount of work reverse-engineering the TR280i's electrical system.

Cheers.

 

EFI_OSSA_Notebook_v1.1.pdf

Edited by konrad
Version 1.1
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I've replaced the annotated schematic and ECU pinout in the first post with a document containing that information and much more.

It's my first draft (I'm calling it version 0.8) of things I've learned about EFI OSSAs. It's information I've pieced together from notes to myself and emails to friends. But it's more than just what I've learned by reverse-engineering the system. In may places (perhaps too many, perhaps not enough?) I've tried to add justification and background to my thought process.

I'm releasing it into the public domain without restriction. If you read it, I'd appreciate feedback – good, bad or indifferent. If you feel something needs additional explanation, please say so. If you think there are errors or omissions, I'm happy to discuss it (either publicly or privately). I want to make the document as useful as possible.

I figure all of us who own these bikes need to support one another.

Edited by konrad

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Big thanks Konrad,

It's a great research and info! Will save the doc for sure.

Interesting about the idle vs starting ease. I've found when I set the idle around 1450-1500rpm I gets a bit easier start. Adjusting idle isn't so hard when you have the diagnostic plug to compensate & reset the TPS when you open up the butterfly a little for more rpms. Still, air bypass sounds like a great idea.

 

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Tsiklonaut, as I recall you mentioned having a very high-compression head.  One would think there is nothing simpler than a 2T head, right?  But the devil is in the details.  Small changes in squish clearance and/or blend radius (from bowl to squish band) can have a large impact on squish velocity, which in turn can have a large impact on rate of combustion and therefore combustion pressure rise versus crank angle.

I always try to keep in mind the words of a famous racer and tuner, Kel Carruthers: "Give the bloody engine what it wants, mate."

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Excellent document konrad. Your reference to moving a pin on the ecu, this was a mod for the early bikes that allowed the use of the dual mapping switch that was not available initially. I did that mod on my 2011 model when the dual map switch became available and the dealer loaded both up for me.....although the differences were only slight

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Canada280i, I appreciate your comments.  Regarding your experience with the Factory 300, how/when do you use each map? I'm guessing one is for wet conditions and the other dry.

I'm wondering if that map made no difference in my 280 because it was just too rich everywhere (294cc verse 272cc) and that swamped any differences between the maps?

As an aside, I've fixed many typos (and some outright errors) in v0.8 of the document.  I'll be posting an update, but want to add a bit of content first.   I'll also be starting a separate topic on fabricating an ECU diagnostic cable/interface.

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On my current 300 at the moment I only use the termignoni map, I do have 2 loaded but can’t remember which other I put on! Slotting the hall sensor to modify the timing was the biggest change that smoothed things out for me

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Version 1.0 is now available in the first post. I've fixed a lot of typos, some flat-out wrong information (mostly about gearbox ratios), and added 6 pages of content. The stuff I added on disc springs, XiU-rdi's clutch components, flywheel weights, and the Clake OLC may be of general interest.

As an aside, this document has been downloaded 50 times. For comparison, my document about fabricating a diagnostic interface has been downloaded 155 times. I would have expected those numbers to be reversed.

Happy New Year!

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On 12/31/2018 at 2:33 PM, konrad said:

Version 1.0 is now available in the first post. I've fixed a lot of typos, some flat-out wrong information (mostly about gearbox ratios), and added 6 pages of content. The stuff I added on disc springs, XiU-rdi's clutch components, flywheel weights, and the Clake OLC may be of general interest.

As an aside, this document has been downloaded 50 times. For comparison, my document about fabricating a diagnostic interface has been downloaded 155 times. I would have expected those numbers to be reversed.

Happy New Year!

Hi, first of all thank for your great works, very good job!

 

I've a question (sorry for my English): I have bought a tr300 from 4 weeks , the bike has no problem on power up, 1/2 kicks do the job cold or hot does not matter. Yesterday's I've removed the front light cover to try fitting an extra fuel tank , and I've found the easy start system box. But there is some strange things:

1) the second connector (the small one) was cutted and disconnected , I think is the kill switch link

2) BTW my bike has a working magenitc kill switch on the left side of the bar

3) 2 wire of the 6 large connector was cutted (Im so stupid that I've not taken a photo of the color before remount and isolate it, but I'm pretty sure that one was dark blue 

 

Any idea for this ? 

Do you know the function and color of every single wire going from 6 pin to easy start system logic? 

 

Thanks 

 

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I'm not sure where to go with this question.  There is already a topic here on the Easy Start: https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/60767-ossa-easy-start-unit/

I would like to upload the complete Easy-Start Instruction Manual, entitled "INTRODUCTION OF OSSA START SYSTEM ASSIST" but it's a 14.5 MB .pdf file, and I that exceeds my allotted storage space.

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I just attempted to uploaded version 1.1 to the first post. (It contains a few minor additions, plus wire colors and functionality of the Easy Start connector for matteo.lavaggi).

Apparently, I'm all out of space for attachments.

 

Okay, got it now.  Apparently I also needed to delete the link to the uploaded file (as well as the upload itself) in order to recover the attachment space. I'm not used to this board software.

Edited by konrad
Fixed Attachment Issue

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Thanks dear, next week i will re-open the wiring i've close by black tape o check what the guys previously hold the bike have done. i think it has completly bypass the kill switch and disconnect th easy start.

Try to upload your file in a google drive folder and share the link?

Any idea on where the original kill switch can be connect if not using the easy start pass trought? there must be a direct link because my kill switch does not route on the front light but go direct some where in the bike (also if a bike has not easy start system, the kill switch is still connected on the light harness or not?).

 

Maybe the racing electrocal harness is different than the stock one? i've no "free" plug in the front of bike.

PS last question, original easy starting system waith for kill switch press, but this is a +12v imput or a Ground input? The original kill switch close the circuit to ground or to +12v? , but whe install a magentic switch there is something that need to be fixe (when the magnetic cap is not on the bike, the easy start system every 30 second deliver the +10v until the aaa battery is complete discarghed ?)

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Ok, kill switch from the electircal diagram seem a "to gnd" button that has lot of sense. So the kill sitch output from the Easy Start System (yellow) must go in some way to the White / Black pin 29 on the ecu like the original kill button switch, right?

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