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snappster

New trials rider, old SY175 questions

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1 hour ago, oni nou said:

www.shercousa.com  ......Docs.........Service Info.......scroll down.......2006........go to bottom ..Oil types etc

https://www.lewisportusa.com/manuals/sherc_11-21-09/sherco_fork_seal_replacement-1.pdf   this fork is  Paioli made and although not exactly the same should be similar.

 

Nice procedure, Thanks.

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After riding around the yard for a while I decided it was time to seriously go through the bike. Got the fork oil changed out after partial disassembly and cleaning. As expected the oil was fairly nasty. Discovered one of the front wheel bearings was bad; explains that crunchy noise I had occasionally heard, will order both front bearings. Steering head bearings have more play than I like so it is coming apart tomorrow and will at least get bearings cleaned, greased, and adjusted. Should have a few parts to order as I go through the entire bike. 

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So the rear wheel bearings are also shot. With the aluminum spacer inside the hub I cant get a punch behind the bearings to drive them out. How do you guys remove the wheel bearings? I am guessing that I need a drift with a shoulder to catch the spacer. Are they for sale or easy to make?

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Nice video.  Swing arm is out and the drive side bearing is pretty dry, so I might as well replace them too. All wheel bearings are out with minimal damage to the spacers thanks to your help. Got the steering stem apart and found rollers instead of balls. Looks like they got greased somewhere along the way because they look fairly well packed and the grease looks clean. Think I will just adjust those bearings and call it done. Thanks for the help guys. I want the bike right before the weather gets nice and my first trial in March.

Edited by snappster
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Today's questions:

1)  How is the carb needle removed from the slide? I am being gentle but it isn't coming out the top of the slide.

2) Precisely what material should I remove on the intake pipe-head joint? Is it typically material removal from the head, or pipe? If it is the head do I have to remove the head? What if I stuff a rag in the intake runner, file the offending ridge, then vacuum out the shavings?

 

Thanks everyone.

Edit: yep, I am messing around with it while I wait for parts from Mike K.

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Edited by snappster

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12 hours ago, snappster said:

Today's questions:

1)  How is the carb needle removed from the slide? I am being gentle but it isn't coming out the top of the slide.

2) Precisely what material should I remove on the intake pipe-head joint? Is it typically material removal from the head, or pipe? If it is the head do I have to remove the head? What if I stuff a rag in the intake runner, file the offending ridge, then vacuum out the shavings?

 

Thanks everyone.

Sorry I don't know what you are trying to remove but I'm sure you can also make use of gravity to help prevent particles entering the intake or exhaust port.

On one of my bikes (an OSSA) I always string the bike up upside down when I take the cylinder off so that no rust or dirt falls into the crankcase.

Edited by feetupfun

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19 hours ago, snappster said:

Today's questions:

1)  How is the carb needle removed from the slide? I am being gentle but it isn't coming out the top of the slide.

2) Precisely what material should I remove on the intake pipe-head joint? Is it typically material removal from the head, or pipe? If it is the head do I have to remove the head? What if I stuff a rag in the intake runner, file the offending ridge, then vacuum out the shavings?

 

Thanks everyone.

You're fiddling, I'm not telling you how to take it out as mine's never been out in 12 years  nor has any part of the engine other than the carb been removed.

Never ridden one that runs any better than mine some are different but not an improvement, the limiting factor on these bikes is lack of ground clearance.

It will ground on stuff that other bikes clear easily so you've really got to work at keeping the front wheel light.

Get out and play you'll never wear this bike out they're great.

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On ‎2‎/‎21‎/‎2019 at 2:00 PM, breagh said:

You're fiddling...

Actually, I play alto and tenor sax. 

Could someone tell me the torque spec for the swing-arm bolt/nut? I just got the swing-arm on with new bearings and seals. Or, is it not really critical, just reasonably tight being fine.

 

Thanks, Dave

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Rode my first trials event today. Thanks to all who helped me get the bike ready, it had no problems. I had a few but came out pretty well, built some confidence, and learned some things I need work on.

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Photos from training days with Ryan Young. I may be approaching the limit of what the bike can do. One particular obstacle he advised me to not attempt because the bike was unlikely up to the task. So do I get a new bike or hop this one up? I could get the 163cc kit installed, have the head worked over, install a fast throttle, and maybe increase compression ratio. Or, get a new Sherco 125 ST which I tested and liked or a Beta Evo 200 getting more power and less weight with better everthing. The 125 felt significantly more powerful than my little Scorpa does.

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They are hard work and take a bit technique so moving to a more modern bike will help most riders.

As for reaching there limit sure there's a video with one of the top Japanese riders on one which was an eye opener.

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