ktmsprocket Posted January 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2006 (edited) I will. This weekend I'll be doing the final pre-season work on the KTMs for his MX and will get into that Beta at the same time. Its a nice little bike, but because I'm horribly fussy with the bikes I have to have everything just so before the season starts (its a curse I think). Funny thing about all this is, just when I thought I had learned all there was to know about little clutches (in the KTMs), here I go again!!!! Wouldn't have it any other way right????!!!!! Edited January 19, 2006 by KTMSprocket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan bechard Posted January 18, 2006 Report Share Posted January 18, 2006 I will throw in here a little bit. My son currently rides a Sherco 80. I believe that the Beta has a cable clutch is that correct? They make a lever set called a raptor that has three adjustable points, and as previously discussed you are making a trade. Also, on the TY 80's we used to run I believe it was a Domino lever assembly that had a better leverage ratio. On the little Sherco 50's (cable brakes) I would run the take off Domino levers off the Polini MX bikes, and they had better leverage and pull then the stocks by a long shot. If it has a hydrualic clutch like Dean's 80, I would highly reccomend the ARC lever available from RYP. It has some extra adjusting capabilities to get the lever in closer to his hand and they feel great. Bring money, but I believe they are lifetime warrantied and I know Dean's have taken some good bounces. I will also add in, that Dean's has only 3 (1/2) the clutch springs in it, and you should see peoples faces when they pull his clutch for the first time. In all seriousness, mostly what you feel is the resistance from the plastic washers in the housing itself. It returns itself fine, and I do not believe that it has ever slipped. Not sure how much that helped, but thought I would throw that out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmsprocket Posted January 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2006 You guys are just great. This advice is so helpful. Its a cable clutch and the stock lever is both long and big. Taking all the advice into consideration I will remove a couple of springs to reduce the cable tension and alter the stock lever to bring it closer. If I can;t get the travel, then I'll look at either a shorter lever, or other brand of lever. (I'd be surprised if I can get the Polini levers here). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan bechard Posted January 19, 2006 Report Share Posted January 19, 2006 Send me an e-mail with your adress. trialsalan atsign bellsouth.net Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmsprocket Posted January 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2006 Hmmm.... I have the cover off, but am not sure how to get the clutch apart. Do you need a special tool to compress the clutch so you can get that ring out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmsprocket Posted January 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2006 (edited) Ah Bugger it....I made one myslef... Long screws on the outside compress the clutch. Short screws hold the two legs together (you need two separate legs cos you cant get a single tool in there). Edited January 24, 2006 by KTMSprocket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob w Posted January 24, 2006 Report Share Posted January 24, 2006 (edited) Hi Jeremy and every one else. Hey this technical forum is good - I've never made it down the page past the twinshocks. Jeremy I came looking for your post on the clutch removal and found this one too. Here is my two cents. Beta Rev50 for my seven year old has the stock clutch perch, lever and no mods to the clutch itself. Yet the clutch is as light and accesible as any seven year old could need. How? First I moved the perch all the way down the bars to near the bend. This put the end of the lever just in front of his pointer and index fingers, but too far out. (This also has the advantage that when he lays the bike over the bars usually hit the ground first.) Then I made an insert or wedge that fits between the clutch and perch to bring the lever in towards the bars so he could reach it. See the picture. I used urethane because thats is what I do, but you could use just about anything that has a little flex. The wedge has a split to fit it over the cable, a hole at the end of the split for the cable to run through, and is held in place by a cable tie through another hole. Honestly this took less than 2 minutes to make and setup. I trimmed the wedge until we got the lever spaced just right. Then a litle adjustment of the cable adjustors to get the break/engage point right. Because we used the stock lever, last year when he had a big crash at an event he bought another lever from the dealers tent by himself (please put this on Dad's account), and fitted it with his brothers help. All they had to do was unscrew one bolt. All the adjustments stayed the same for him and he finished the event before I knew what had happened. Too easy Edited January 24, 2006 by Rob W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted January 25, 2006 Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 Good Job! Hope it works! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmsprocket Posted January 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2006 Hey Rob, When we get our act together we'll get to meet you guys at some interstate event....will be good to pick your brains!!! cheers. J. ps. i've used that lever 'stand-off' before for the brakes on cable pull type. Sometimes i put a bucket load of cable ties in there!!! Sometimes I do the elegant thing and tap a 6mm hole in the perch and run a screw in there. Only the best for MoToToM you know!!! ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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