ktmsprocket

Betarev3...what is the carb work work you are doing? PS. Have just started with an '03 Sherco. Retarded the timing alot and added the slow action throttle to calm it down a bit. I like and ride it better now.

Telecat. Thanks for replying. The plug that came with the bike was a 6. So I new one in of the same value (ok?). The mix I used I'm sure had too much oil. I ran 40:1 and prob should be using 100:1 (yes?) Also, when I think back to the pre-amble conversation I had with the owner prior to buying the bike, I suspect that the bike sat for quite some time with old fuel in it. Hence, i will pull the carburettor apart anyway. As a follow-up question...it has the same the PHBG car that we run in the 50 Supercross bikes. I tend to run the needle clip at one down from top. What do you do for the Beta 50??? Cheers and Thanks for any help you can give. J.

We've just picked up a used '06 model. It has a habit of dying every-now and again. I haven't pulled the carb apart yet (probable cause)......BUT......please can you guys tell me two things... What Plug do you run? What pre-mix ratio do you run? Thank You. J

Thanks guys... Are there any 'sidewhow' events for kids below 16 (ie. not yet licensed to ride on the road)?? cheers. J

Jezza thanks... Has anybody had experience of fitting or using these? Looks pretty good..

Hi. I think the title says it all. I am just about to pull a Rev50 out of its crate (bought a very good used one). Its for my son who has just turned 8. Is it possible to convert the clutch to a Hydraulic one?

Hi...What is the youngest age a rider can do the SSDT?

i fink i can smell burning...

Things I do....sometimes one works, sometimes you need to do all. Reverse flush:: Syringe fluid through caliper and up and out of the reservoir. Messy so use rags. Bleed:: Attach clear tube to caliper nipple and have it go into a half full clear container of brake fluid. Pull clutch lever in while opening the nipple. Close nipple before you let go of lever. Top up reservoir with fluid as you go. Do this steadily and take your time. PS. You do feel like you need 6ft arms or a blonde assistant . Bleed the banjo union:: Sometimes you need to loosen the banjo at the reservoir and reverse syringe fluid through the caliper. Messy. Use harsh language:: Shout at the f*kr and then set light to it.

Buchanan in the US?

copemech....i just revisted the photo you posted. In the '03 2.9 I just did the timing on, the factory 'mark' on the plate was lined up against the right side of the aluminium post that the allen screw goes into. (I am sure that the flywheel had never been off before)

Neo...thanks for the offer. Will take you up on it 8-) I just reset the timing - 7mm retarded from stock. A lot less punchy and seems to run OK as is. Very happy even if pulling the flyweel nut was a b****.

I just finished the timing mod and ran the bike around the back yard for an hour or so. From the factory marking, I moved the timing back by 7mm (measured as accurately as i could with Digital caliper). I also happened to move the bars more forward as suggested in another thread. The change in timing made a big difference. The bike was much more rideable and also with the bars more forward and i felt in more control (quite noticeable). I noticed now that lifting the front was easier and my arms weren't pulled out of their sockets due to poor riding style and power I couldn't quite handle. I pulled wheelies easier but then noticed that the slow action throttle when fitted will help even more. Happy bunny now. (of course it goes without saying that a smaller bike would have been a better first bike - but thats life) (I will keep an eye on any heating and poor running as I get better and push the bike a bit longer/harder) Thanks for all your help!!!

Am very much a beginner. I think the message I am getting from the recent threads/posts on this subject is this (if you are a beginner with a 2.9):: It is probably best to:: 1 fully retard the timing to get used to the bike and and do your basic exersises 2 If you have done 1 above, know that there is unburnt fuel in the pipe therefore likely to cause overheating if you run the bike for long periods (or if you start riding the bike harder). 3 Decrease the amount of ignition retarding as you built your skill or time on the bike 4 Once reasonably competant, fine tune to your liking Is that a fair observation???

OK. SO i put the impact wrench on the nut and it won't shift. Tried both directions in the end... Please can someone confirm whether to rotate the nut clockwise or counter....? and.. should it be this hard to get the retaining nut off?? Cheers. J

Drop Offs?!!!!!! Yer kidding right....... My highest drop off so far was from a house brick!!! I am still very much in the beginner stage... ((Hopefully the flywheel puller arrives tmrw so I can nobble the timing and tame it down))

I decided as the first step to drain whatever was in there and replace. The oils were quite different. Probably 10Wt one side and 2.5 the other. Both were very dirty. I replaced with 300mL of 10Wt on both sides (to set a baseline). Its improved what was there before and slowed things up a bit so the damping seems about right. I'll now try shorter preload spacers on the front to see how that goes.

Hi Neo....seems like I have the same "probs" you mentioned....want plusher suspension and waaaaay less power on the 290. I rode Dave Marchants Scorpa yesterday and I have to say it was more gentle on me than my 03 2.9.

MC, Thanks for your tips. While I was out this morning I picked up some Motul 2.5Wt and some Motul 5Wt. As I don't know the current Wt or volume in the bike (bought the bike recently (used))...I will go straight to the 2.5Wt and put 300mL in as a start as its easier to fill than drain. ((PS. The rear shock has the spring retaining nut at a about 3/8 of the way. I may wind it right back so its real "loosey goosey")) ((PPS. I still have to the ignition retarding thing as well - but now I have a few days leave I can get to these things...yay!!!)

Hi, I'm still very much on my Trials L plates. Yesterday I rode my 2.9 then had the opportunity to ride an '07 SY250. The Scorpa had much 'softer' or 'plusher' suspension. I definately noticed it when hitting the bumps - it soaked them up, while my Sherco transferred the bumps through to me. Honestly, I immediately rode slightly better on the Scorpa. Have any of you guys set-up the Sherco for such a ride (ie. soft and plush) and know the details for front and rear? (no guesses please). Cheers. J PS. Things like....Oil weight, amount and so on.

thank you.

Hi. Please can you tell what you think is the best DVD for teaching the basics of modern trials riding? Cheers. J

Possibles that spring to mind:: Spark plug cap failure Lead to cap has failed or has poor connection (pulled away inside cap) Bodgy plug (wrong plug?) Compression Crank Seals Coil/Stator (corrosion, wiring failed etc) Bad fuel - will smell off Slider guide fallen out in carb General gaskets and seals failure....if you can get it going, spray some carb cleaner around the carb and intake seals to see if changes the idle. Dead rat up the pipe...

My wife uses the Renthal Grip Glue to keep her hair in place for a month.

Compression or seals? (although pretty unlikely in an 06 model)