the clutch is still very on/off,i did the "clutch fix" years ago and changed the fluid about 2 rides ago but is there anything else I can do to make it more progressive? I did see a YT vid but it was all in Japanesse?

Reduce the preload on the springs, add washers or use the top hat washers that are standard on some models, or swap out the thicker style friction plates for the thinner ones. If you change the plates then you may also need to change the shims on the release mechanism.

You can also try different oil or grade of oil, but there are tons of oil threads.

It's a 4t so can that be different options as well

4t has 2 thick plates that can be swapped out for thin plates.  Still, I don't think it can be made as as progressive as the 2t clutch

 On top of the clutch being the way it is, all this happens about the same time the slide starts moving. Being a vacuum type slide, the clutch engagement happens about the same time you get the initial hit from the motor as it`s taking it`s first breath. Making the low speed circuit richer can smooth out this transition.

Bigger pilot jet, or the air screw?

The 4T comes very lean stock. If you have an older manual it shows to go up to a 25 or 27.5. But if you just adjust the fuel screw it makes a difference.

I had to change my clutch style when going to the 4t in tight full lock type turns.  Instead of a coordinated opening of the throttle with operating the clutch, I had to hold steady throttle up above idle and just use the clutch.  This took out one variable and was much easier to modulate.  

On 4/7/2020 at 9:26 AM, mcman56 said:

4t has 2 thick plates that can be swapped out for thin plates.  Still, I don't think it can be made as as progressive as the 2t clutch

4T has all six of the 3mm thick plates. I haven’t got one to play with so I’ve got no idea how to smooth out the engagement. Swapping plates might work either with some of the thinner plates or the kevlar plates from Barnett but it’s pure speculation.

Maybe my memory was incorrect.  I may have swapped out two thick for two thin.  It did help some.

 

So had a look at the clutch again and 2 springs are already removed, I don't remember doing that ? I can't locate the air screw? And I have tried the " keeping the revs higher, which deffo helps, maybe I will just have to live with it

The air screw is under the carb... very difficult to get to unless you have an ‘exteneded’ airscrew from Jitsie or similar... I extended my original one with a bigger dia wheel so I can just about get to it 

Ah no wonder I couldn't find it

On a 4t? Isn’t that a fuel screw instead? Therefore works the opposite way around to a 2t air screw on a carb. 
 

On a 4t you close (clockwise) for leaner and open (anti-clockwise) for richer fuel screw settings. If you didn’t know this you could be accidentally closing the fuel screw thinking it’s getting richer but it’s not. This would then cause much head scratching and a feeling you need different pilots etc or any other perceived issue. 

Is it in the same place pindle?