Jump to content

the outlaw

Fantic 240 - removing / refitting exhaust

Recommended Posts

It's a topic that has come up before, but there was no definitive answer in a previous thread. The problem - completely removing / refitting the exhaust system on a Fantic 240. The dilemma has occurred after reaching the glorious final stages of a resto' project, and after reassembling the bike, with the engine bolted back in place, and the carb' & all the rubbers wrestled back in to place only to find that the immaculately painted exhaust ain't going to be neatly slipping through them tight gaps even with a lot of banging and metal on metal contact.

So, has anyone come up with the most effective way to take off and / or fit an exhaust system to an assembled bike, hopefully avoiding all but essential disassembly, and not having to remove the head & cylinder, or maybe the carb, airbox, rear shock etc ?

And is the exhaust best fed through with the front end going in from the rear of the bike, or threading the wider rear section fed through from the front above the cylinder head?

I fear it's going to get messy... but any advice much appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I've always had to take the head off along with airbox and rear mudguard. Slipped the exhaust in from front no problem. 

Don't think it's possible to get it in without taking parts off. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

It is possible - Air box and carb out, right hand rear shock off, breather tube and connector at back of mag cover off.  Feed the exhaust in from the rear (side) so the exhaust front end sort of loops around the right hand part of the frame behind the engine (triangular part with the footrests) so it can hang hooked on to this part of the frame resting on the back of the mag cover. Now feed the exhaust in to position clockwise so the front part just sneaks through the gap between the barrell and frame (it should just fit through but is very tight on clearance). Now the main body of the exhaust should be above the head but will be rotated as the front part will be down beside the right of the engine instead of in front. Ease the whole exhaust forward and rotate until the part that goes into the barrell  can just pass in front of the front tubes. Its now in position if you are lucky.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Can I say a big thanks to both of you (Fantic 240motor and Chylowen) for your advice. And hot on getting Fantic240motor's reply I was out in the garage last night working to get it done.

Chylowen, I so wish i'd received your advice last night as I could have put it fully to the test. I started off with removing the airbox and pulling the carb' from the barrel and resting it on the engine with the throttle cable still in. Played around with the exhaust trying different angles of attack, but couldn't find a way, so (as Fantic240motor said he'd done) I took the head off which allowed a bit more wiggle room and although it was still a squeeze I had the exhaust in place. The trouble was I then had to put the head back on, and that became the next challenge. It was possible, but I had to tie the exhaust in the highest position to the frame and eventually got the head back.

The issue then was how to tighten the head nuts as with one (the rear, right) nut, it is not possible to get a socket or spanner on it, because the exhaust runs so tight above it, so I'm going to improvise by cutting down a box spanner to tighten it, though won't be able to use a torque wrench on it.

So having done all that I never got to test (Chylowen's) method which avoids removing the head. Maybe the next person who has the issue with fitting a 240 exhaust and picks up this thread can endorse it with any lessons learnt. I really like Chylowen's comprehensively scripted advice as the way to go, but buggered if I'm going to try it now I've got it all back together again!!!

Nigel McGoldrick (theoutlaw)

Edited by the outlaw

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Thanks to Chylowen's written instructions about how to put a 240 pipe on without removing the head. While I did it I took these pictures to supplement his instructions. The last picture shows the inlet resting on the down tube, a little push and it cleared. It took longer to remove the necessary parts than to put the pipe on. Very easy to do.  Thanks Chylowen! 

E5628183-068A-4E89-A486-27FB00060E0C.jpeg

D2212A81-0417-4D1B-A4B2-C43E8C34FE10.jpeg

E92070D4-0BA1-4CC0-B334-AA1634304CD2.jpeg

50B0E9A0-7C4F-4FC8-92BD-23F2804D556A.jpeg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Much has been said on this thread about how to remove / refit a 240 exhaust. Blood has been spilt (the fin serrations trapping my knuckles under the exhaust) and many swear words uttered in my refit battle. chylowen and fxstbi have been a great help in sharing their advice and experiences, and yet further wisdom is now shared in the form of a helpful instructional demo' on how to do it from Lee Harris on his facebook site Cost Optimised Fantic Restorations, posted on 30.05.20.

A slight difference in method to chylwen's. Like copulation though, it's nice to have a choice of techniques.

Regards, Nigel McGoldrick

Edited by the outlaw

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...