fantic240motor

I've always had to take the head off along with airbox and rear mudguard. Slipped the exhaust in from front no problem. Don't think it's possible to get it in without taking parts off.

Have you tried pushing the pistons right back in the calliper when bleeding?

Good news fellas I have 4 used and 6 new. To be fair rgvlc gets the 4 he needs as it's his post then stuessenhigh you're welcome to what's left. Please drop me a message if you're interested.

Good point jimmyl. It was dry and not top end. I can see the theory with a rider subconsciously backing off throttle when using the more aggressive setting and then not feeling any difference!

It's factory fitted jonnyc21, standard in 2016. I tested the handlebar switch and it is working. I don't really mind the fact I can't notice a significant difference, just wondered if it should be noticeable or is it so subtle it makes little difference!

I have a 260 4rt 2016 and would appreciate other owners thoughts and experience with this switch. I hoped the switch would soften the motor with an option for more grunt if needed. I was led to believe the switch was more effective on these bikes than some others as it controlled the fuel injection. I tried the switch in both settings back to back while practicing sections yesterday in the dry but can't seem to notice any immediate difference to power delivery.

I didn't fit the larger impeller the previous owner did. I will message him to ask him for more details on this as mentioned the 2t type are different. I tried to upload a picture but said it was too large ?

My 2012 300 4T doesn't use a drop but the previous owner did have some overheating/boiling over type problems. He upgraded the impellor and filled with waterless coolant and now completely cured. The water pump cover has an alloy spacer to accommodate the bigger impellor. I use a zip tie as a dip stick to check height but in 8 months it hasn't used any. I am often surprised how infrequently the cooling fan comes on and how short a time it runs for but all is well so be it despite the bike getting plenty of work in sections and occasionally ending up upside down!

I'd recommend taking apart and checking the bearings aren't rusty. You're right that the bars should automatically fall on their own when bike is on a stand and adjustment is correct so if the stem has no play and steering is still stiff most likely due to some issue with the bearings. Good luck with the Rev and welcome to the world of trials riding. They're great bikes, perfect choice for someone getting into the sport ?

Trouble is it's not that easy to change the filter through the hatch especially if like me you have hands like shovels!. It's just as easy to remove the complete seat/mudguard unit as you have to on earlier models and save the fiddling.

He's my take on my similar situation. I find I have to remove and clean my air filter after every use on my 300 4t Evo. There's always small bits laying in the filter. Like most I have spare filters so don't have to wait for clean and drying time just swap over and reassemble. When the bike is very muddy and a good wash is needed I leave on the seat/mudguard on while I wash the bike. I then go through the usual removing seat/mudguard and filter clean. If I've managed to get filter wet it doesn't matter and any water in airbox I drain it out. Have one of those plastic sheet air box covers but have never fitted it, as mentioned they're fiddly and I not sure I really need that amount of cover. If I was riding deep water streams, crossing deep bogs etc I may well fit it to prevent water getting in filter. I have some tips to keep air filter dry and cleaner that have worked for me. I wedge some reticulated foam in the gap in frame above the carburetor. This helps reduce splashes from water, dirt, twigs, leaves etc finding their way into the filter top. I also seal off the small gap above the rear silencer mount with gaffer tape. There was a hole for wiring in the rear mudguard that I sealed with Sikaflex.

To change crank seals on a 240 I'm afraid you will need to separate the crankcase unlike the later engines, presuming it doesn't have a later engine fitted? I've attached a Tec sheet with some useful information in case you don't have it. Fantic 240 OM.PDF

Nothing lost really. It cost about the same as the sale price to buy and restore it but I used it a lot over a couple of years so the time and money invested paid dividends. Picture of it after competing in the Cambridge Matchless MCC Brian Stonebridge trial 2016.

In my honest opinion your Fantic 247 is worth about £800 presuming the engine runs with working brakes, clutch, forks shock etc. The more that need fixing the price may go down. However the bike looks a nice easy project being complete and original, that would be important to me. New rear mudguard, silencer and expected consumables it could be back to it's former glory! I recently sold a very original and nice Fantic 309 with no faults for £1500 and a while before I let go my 307 go for £1250. Both had lots of money spent and were ready to ride. Unfortunately not all Fantics are worth big money. Good luck

These covers go over the top of old original tanks. In the case of the 240 ones they tidy up scruffy looking tanks tatty that still function okay. A very good idea as old ones can't be painted however unless they're in very bad condition the plastic can be polished. Ironically these covers are not petrol resistant so in no time at all will look as tatty as the old tank! Wonder why Shedworks don't treat them with fuel resistant lacquer if that would solve the problem? The 300 Fantic ones are also an excellent idea as they do away with the need for the tank/side panels.