Hello New Friends!

I am hoping someone can answer some q's for me..

I bought a 320 with no spark. 

they had the wrong stator coil hooked up to the points first off so I changed it. 

have spent about 5 hrs so far and not sure about afew things.

First.

the points are new,  I am using a new condenser and have tried 2 coils.

I found a thread someone posted about hooking 2 D size batteries together to get 3volts to test with and I was able to get spark but  found that the coil will make spark with voltage applied to it.  

I also was able to get spark from the coil through the points while hand turning the flywheel a few times,  thought I had it beat but I was wrong. 

 

So heres the crux.

1.I have an igntion winding (LT coil) that measures 3.5 ohms.  I read that it should be .35 but assume thats a multimeter reading discrepency.?

2. I have a black wire coming from that LT coil going straight to the points.  what im not sure is if it is wired correctly at the points.

it is wired so that one side of the points mounting tab has an insulator and both the black wire from the LT coil and the blue wire heading off to the condenser (under tank)

the other side of the points mounting tab has an insulator and the spring from the points.

 

3.  the blue wire then travels up to the new condenser lead,  the condenser body is grounded to the frame.

4. there is another black wire that travels from the condenser lead and goes into one of the two inputs on the coil.

5. the coil has a second input and I was able to get spark when I connected that second coil input to ground (not sure if thats correct tho.)

6. the spark plug wire goes out to the plug 

 

 

 

Questions.

 

1.is the second input of the coil supposed to be grounded?

2.  Why is there continuity across the points even when they are open?

seems i have continutity everywhere!  from LT output to HT input weather points are open or closed.

I have continutity from ground to points and ground to coil.

 

where am I going wrong :)

 

any insight would be stellar.

 

ill post some pics.

cheers

Tarik

many thanks in advance

 

 

Even if you get it working its probably past its best, have a look at :-

 

https://www.motoswm.co.uk/shop/swm-rotax-trials-electronic-ignition-kit-clubman/

Ya. I’m sure your right but I want to know why ?

it’s just. The points contact wire is supposed to be isolated from ground correct?  So that when the points close it grounds the contact correct?

 

if so then how can you achieve that when the black wire coming from the lt coil is grounded and also connected to the points?

Edited September 23, 20205 yr by Tarmop

Just buy a Electronic ignition kit.   Mines miles better with it...........  No messing about with points

Hi I'm actually stripping my motor 

My ignition works

Here's a photo for you

 

5 hours ago, Tarmop said:

?

it’s just. The points contact wire is supposed to be isolated from ground correct?  So that when the points close it grounds the contact correct?

 

From memory, you need to disconnect the black wire if you want the points to act like a switch.

4 hours ago, Kdtx240 said:

Hi I'm actually stripping my motor 

My ignition works

Here's a photo for you

 

 

Thanks for the pics!

wired that way and it works.

I guess it didn’t like the cap after the points and it didn’t like the blue and black both coming from the points together ?

 

Now next question. 
Is  the kick start mechanism supposed to click with every rotation?

or was it assembled incorrectly ?

Edited September 23, 20205 yr by Tarmop

Soooo.   GOOD NEWS!

 I got it to fire seem like it was gonna break my leg it was kicking back so hard!!!

 

BUT>>>>>>

after it ran for about 10 seconds with a lot of clickety-clack now the kick starter is frozen in place at the top I assume somebody assembled this wrong?

I bet  some of  you’ve been through it before LOL any words of wisdom?