I'm suffering with clutch drag, not alot, but enough to make the bike want to creep a little. I've replaced the clutch plates, fitted a new push rod, bled the clutch, and filled with 5 - 30 oil. Still it drags. I'm going to remove the clutch plates and the centre drum but don't know how the outer basket comes off(going to check for groves on fingers) Can anyone help?

Dont all Gassers do it !

My Pro does it,

My old contact did it, deburring the edges of the clutch plates worked once ...for abit

Ive heard ATF Dexron 3 for the GB helps ??

matt

Too be honest its pretty common for them but saying that after my 98 Tx which did it a bit my new 05 pro doesnt do it at all.

have you got any play in the lever when first pulling it in?? i think you should have 3-5 mm of play before the lever begins to work (correct me if im wrong) i had no play on my old gasser txt 200 until my mates dad sorted it out and before he did it creeped but after that it didnt creep at all, your clutch could not be fully disengaging if it has no play in the lever

it's a 98 txt 270. I have some free movement on the lever but not as much as you say. I will slacken it off a little more.

When you adjust the lever, pull the rubber dust cap back so you can see the piston inside the master cylinder. The lever should be adjusted so that the piston comes all the way back and rests against the snap ring that holds it in the cylinder, when the lever is let out. Adjusting the lever to get the least amount of freeplay that allows the piston to come all the way back, will give you the least amount of clutch drag.

Lighter oil will give you less clutch drag. Dexron ATF will give you noticeably less drag than 5W-30, but some people say it isn't as good a lubricant for the transmission.

After the clutch plates are out, you can check for grooves on the outer basket without removing it. You would need a clutch holding tool, torque wrench, and propper torque spec to remove and re-install it.

You will likely always have some amount of drag in your clutch, but it shouldn't be so much that it causes problems when you are riding. Cheers, Bruce

Edited March 9, 200620 yr by brucej

Thanks Bruce, I will check it out.

I had a 2002 pro 280 with te same problem.

It takes always half hour of riding before the clutch workt acceptable.

GG suplier in Holland told me to replace clutchcover complete for a 2004 and later model.

Problem stil there.

Replaced mastercilinder for a 2005 model.

Its better then. but it stil sucks.

Now have the right sollution.

It was my second gg with this problem.

The sollution is, like i did,sell your bike.

I bought a Honda TLR200 21 years old, its about 30% heavier then the GG but a lot more of fun.

Nothing against GG but you have to mantainance it after every ride.

Lighter oil will give you less clutch drag.  Dexron ATF will give you noticeably less drag than 5W-30, but some people say it isn't as good a lubricant for the transmission.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

When I got my PRO 05 it had the same problem, I called the importer who called Adam Raga. Raga told us to use transmission oil (ATF). That solved the problem, I believe that the lubrication will be okay to me, when it is sufficient for Raga . Anyway I have used it for a year without any problems!

It is important that the oil is shifted for every 15-20 hour.

ATF is the recommended fluid. It provides plenty good lubrication qualities, so don't worry about that, and provides the best clutch action (not surprising when you consider that's what it's designed for) If your truely concerned about maximum protection, change it more frequently. Clean oil is superior to even the most expensive dirty oils.