cello Posted Tuesday at 10:30 PM Report Share Posted Tuesday at 10:30 PM I know this has been covered many times before but I'm wondering how best to remove the bearings from the impeller shaft? Also the metal drive gear will need to be swapped to a new shaft unless they are bought as a single item , I cannot see any wear on the shaft but if I'm changing the bearings and seal it makes sense to replace the shaft does it not....... The impeller was toast when i took the pump cover off and the circlip was missing so thats either somewhere else in the engine or the previous owner failed to fit one. I,ve also noticed the water pump drive seal and bearings are easily sourced from a bearing / seal company at a 1/3 of the price from going to Beta or Trials dealership....mmmmmm Re the clutch , i,ve not had a chance to ride the bike yet but noticed the plates waggle in the basket as if there if thebasket bolts are loose, which they are not. Is this normal ? One other question on the front brake rotor which has to much play in the top hats that seat it to the hub , I asume these are worn and need replacing if they sre still available , any idea of the size in case I have to source them from somewhere else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr1AL Posted yesterday at 02:19 AM Report Share Posted yesterday at 02:19 AM (edited) @cello www.betausa.com Trials support service manuals EVO 2009- 2015 service manual the motor is very similar to the techno so use that as a guide .Techno details are harder to find now. Edited yesterday at 02:20 AM by Tr1AL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted yesterday at 01:12 PM Report Share Posted yesterday at 01:12 PM 14 hours ago, cello said: I know this has been covered many times before but I'm wondering how best to remove the bearings from the impeller shaft? Also the metal drive gear will need to be swapped to a new shaft unless they are bought as a single item , I cannot see any wear on the shaft but if I'm changing the bearings and seal it makes sense to replace the shaft does it not....... The impeller was toast when i took the pump cover off and the circlip was missing so thats either somewhere else in the engine or the previous owner failed to fit one. I,ve also noticed the water pump drive seal and bearings are easily sourced from a bearing / seal company at a 1/3 of the price from going to Beta or Trials dealership....mmmmmm Re the clutch , i,ve not had a chance to ride the bike yet but noticed the plates waggle in the basket as if there if thebasket bolts are loose, which they are not. Is this normal ? One other question on the front brake rotor which has to much play in the top hats that seat it to the hub , I asume these are worn and need replacing if they sre still available , any idea of the size in case I have to source them from somewhere else? If I remember right those disc's were the floating type. They were meant to move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemur Posted yesterday at 05:53 PM Report Share Posted yesterday at 05:53 PM 19 hours ago, cello said: One other question on the front brake rotor which has to much play in the top hats that seat it to the hub , I asume these are worn and need replacing if they sre still available , any idea of the size in case I have to source them from somewhere else? If it has 'top hat' washers then it is is a floating brake 😐 the type of disc brake where the disc needs to float to centre the disc between the pads. To do that the disc needs to float side to side and not radially, if the washers are worn in 2 spots radially you can loosen the retaining blot and rotate the top hat washer so it wears in a new place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cello Posted yesterday at 10:06 PM Author Report Share Posted yesterday at 10:06 PM Thanks for the info, the drive gear\shaft is a one piece item but I have now found a replacement although the gear is made out of plastic so hardly a upgrade I may try the old shaft cleaned up with emmery cloth and the new bearings / seal. The forks need a service , the exhaust a good decoking and the rear wheel some replacelment spokes but apart from that it would be nice to enter a trial and seee how she/I cope! Top hats appear well worn I think as they allow radial movement hence they need replacing to make the front end feel more stable on the brakes. Should the clutch pressure plate waggle side to side I wonder? I think I will have to investigate further......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr1AL Posted 7 hours ago Report Share Posted 7 hours ago (edited) 17 hours ago, cello said: Thanks for the info, the drive gear\shaft is a one piece item but I have now found a replacement although the gear is made out of plastic so hardly a upgrade I may try the old shaft cleaned up with emmery cloth and the new bearings / seal. The forks need a service , the exhaust a good decoking and the rear wheel some replacelment spokes but apart from that it would be nice to enter a trial and seee how she/I cope! Top hats appear well worn I think as they allow radial movement hence they need replacing to make the front end feel more stable on the brakes. Should the clutch pressure plate waggle side to side I wonder? I think I will have to investigate further......... JITSIE made BETA EVO disc spacers/bobbins have these measurements TOP HAT BRIM = 14mm , BOLT HOLE = 6.30mm , DISC LOCATOR BUSHING AREA = 10.20mm . The clutch pressure plate should be under spring pressure and clamping the clutch pack together it should not waggle , if you are referring to the clutch basket moving then that would be movement in the bushing or perhaps the nut that holds it on is loose?. Best of luck. Regards Alan. Edited 7 hours ago by Tr1AL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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