Beta Techno 250 1996 Water Pump Issues and a clutch Question

[cello]

I know this has been covered many times before but I'm wondering how best to remove the bearings from the impeller shaft?

 

Also the metal drive gear will need to be swapped to a new shaft unless they are bought as a single item , I cannot see any wear on the shaft but if I'm changing the bearings and seal it makes sense to replace the shaft does it not....... The impeller was toast when i took the pump cover off and the circlip was missing so thats either somewhere else in the engine or the previous owner failed to fit one.

I,ve also noticed the water pump drive seal and bearings are easily sourced from a bearing / seal company at a 1/3 of the price from going to Beta or  Trials dealership....mmmmmm

Re the clutch , i,ve not had a chance to ride the bike yet but noticed the plates waggle in the basket as if there if thebasket  bolts are loose, which they are not. Is this normal ?

One other question on the front brake rotor which has to much play in the top hats that seat it to the hub , I asume these are worn and need replacing if they sre still available , any idea of the size in case I have to source them from somewhere else? 

[Tr1AL]

@cello www.betausa.com  Trials support service manuals EVO 2009- 2015 service manual  the motor is very similar to the techno so use that as a guide  .Techno details are harder to find now.

Edited Wednesday at 02:20 AM by Tr1AL

[lineaway]

14 hours ago, cello said:

I know this has been covered many times before but I'm wondering how best to remove the bearings from the impeller shaft?

 

Also the metal drive gear will need to be swapped to a new shaft unless they are bought as a single item , I cannot see any wear on the shaft but if I'm changing the bearings and seal it makes sense to replace the shaft does it not....... The impeller was toast when i took the pump cover off and the circlip was missing so thats either somewhere else in the engine or the previous owner failed to fit one.

I,ve also noticed the water pump drive seal and bearings are easily sourced from a bearing / seal company at a 1/3 of the price from going to Beta or  Trials dealership....mmmmmm

Re the clutch , i,ve not had a chance to ride the bike yet but noticed the plates waggle in the basket as if there if thebasket  bolts are loose, which they are not. Is this normal ?

One other question on the front brake rotor which has to much play in the top hats that seat it to the hub , I asume these are worn and need replacing if they sre still available , any idea of the size in case I have to source them from somewhere else? 

 If I remember right those disc's were the floating type. They were meant to move.

[lemur]

19 hours ago, cello said:

One other question on the front brake rotor which has to much play in the top hats that seat it to the hub , I asume these are worn and need replacing if they sre still available , any idea of the size in case I have to source them from somewhere else? 

If it has 'top hat' washers then it is is a floating brake 😐 the type of disc brake where the disc needs to float to centre the disc between the pads.  To do that the disc needs to float side to side and not radially, if the washers are worn in 2 spots radially you can loosen the retaining blot and rotate the top hat washer so it wears in a new place.  

[cello]

Thanks for the info, the drive gear\shaft is a one piece item but I have now found a replacement although the gear is made out of plastic so hardly a upgrade  I  may try the old shaft cleaned up with emmery cloth and the new bearings / seal.

The forks need a service , the exhaust a good decoking and the rear wheel some replacelment spokes but apart from that it would be nice to enter a trial and seee how she/I cope!

Top hats appear well worn I think as they allow radial movement hence they need replacing to make the front end feel more stable on the brakes. 

Should the clutch pressure plate waggle side to side I wonder? I think I will have to investigate further.........

[Tr1AL]

17 hours ago, cello said:

Thanks for the info, the drive gear\shaft is a one piece item but I have now found a replacement although the gear is made out of plastic so hardly a upgrade  I  may try the old shaft cleaned up with emmery cloth and the new bearings / seal.

The forks need a service , the exhaust a good decoking and the rear wheel some replacelment spokes but apart from that it would be nice to enter a trial and seee how she/I cope!

Top hats appear well worn I think as they allow radial movement hence they need replacing to make the front end feel more stable on the brakes. 

Should the clutch pressure plate waggle side to side I wonder? I think I will have to investigate further.........

JITSIE made BETA EVO disc spacers/bobbins have these measurements TOP HAT BRIM = 14mm  , BOLT HOLE = 6.30mm , DISC LOCATOR BUSHING AREA = 10.20mm . The clutch pressure plate should be under spring pressure and clamping the clutch pack together it should not waggle , if you are referring to the clutch basket moving then that would be movement in the bushing or perhaps the nut that holds it on is loose?. Best of luck. Regards Alan.

Edited Thursday at 03:11 PM by Tr1AL

[cello]

Thanks i will look to sort thebrake next.......that is after i have fixed the next issue!

I now have noticed a hair line crack in the casing onthe inside of the case where the water pump bearings sit , not sure if tryi g to press a new bearing in would cause more damage and if i should have this welded , use jb weld or just give the new bearings a go ....any advice inmates?

[cello]

Ceack radiates onto the face the bearing presses into 😩

[konrad]

If you weld it, the bore will have to be re-machined.

That's a reasonable place for JB Weld, but after the bearing is installed.  Don't press the bearing in, heat the case and cool the bearing so it is a clearance fit and drops in.

I've written a bit about bearing fits and CTE which may be helpful: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/engine/gearbox/locker-shaft#h.3t5em1loxmz9

EDIT: looking at the photo again, Beta thinned the casting section where it is cracked.  This would be stupid to do if not necessary.  So, another part must be in close proximity.  This complicates things.   

Edited 10 hours ago by konrad

[Tr1AL]

@ cello RE that crack , to worry or not to worry that is the question I have had motors that had the same near a bearing housing and just left them like that fitted a new bearing and nothing bad happened. If you follow konrads advice and freeze the bearing over night before heating the casing you won't risk making it worse. Unless you are going to weld it and machine it yourself or know some one who can it will get expensive and you may as well look to buy a complete gearbox and casings off ebay etc to get a lot more for your money. If the bearing outer race turns in the housing just use a liquid bearing retainer adhesive such as Loctite 641. Regards Alan.

Edited 9 hours ago by Tr1AL