F5Dave Posted yesterday at 06:58 AM Report Share Posted yesterday at 06:58 AM (edited) As title. You can supposedly get a H, M, Or S support ring.. This apparently gives a softer, well if you choose S over M which is standard. I also put GRO Rockoil 75 in. There's f all difference in the support rings. But, well maybe I can tell the difference. I've only ridden up the driveway a few times and then in circles for a few minutes. Actually it does feel easier. My GG250 did seem more progressive . After a horrendous medical event I have been left clumsy and unbalanced. My GG would have been easier to come with..Jebuz, I'm lucky to be walking. But 2 years on if can ride my trials bike. But I am bouncing off stuff. Hence the softer ring. So more updates when I actually get to ride off road properly. Edited yesterday at 06:14 PM by F5Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arnoux Posted yesterday at 10:47 PM Report Share Posted yesterday at 10:47 PM The different "support rings" available from TRS (Soft , Medium and Hard) just change the amount of pre-load on the Belville Spring. Much like your pre load rings on your rear shock. But the Belville is still the stock 1.5mm thick spring. The Soft ring will reduce the pre-load, but it is not the only answer. The thickness of your five combined clutch plates affects this as well. So if your plates have swollen (this happens with some oils and over time) then there is more pre load on the spring. Conversely if the plates are under size compared to standard there is less pre-load on the spring. So this is why combined plate stack height is so important. These diapraghm clutches are fantastic because they can be tuned to suit the riders requirements, but you need to know exactly what you are doing, and it is extremelly fine measurements you are dealing with. If you have hand problems and really want that super easy light clutch, that does come with some compromises of course as the bite, or take up point, is also softer and less precise, then you can use a thinner Bellville Spring, but some other changes need to be made as well or you get bad slip. Here is a link to a kit with the super light spring and the other parts that compensate for that to give the lightest clutch possible. But first check your 5 plate thickness and make sure that has not crept towards or over 10mm. https://www.thehellteam.com/trrs-soft-clutch-kit 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F5Dave Posted 23 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 23 hours ago Hi, thanks for the detailed response. Yes I had seen that kit but figured i hadn't even changed the oil yet (I was off riding for a couple of years or at least Trials which is hard when your balance and coordination take a king hit. Actually I have to ride two finger clutch, well 1 &2/3 as i lost a tip. I mean I didn't lose it, I know where it ended up, hospital incinerator. But I find the '23 lever light enough. My issue is my body vs head is not as sharp as it once was. I'd asked my dealer what oil the guys use and he did mention he had a soft ring in stock so I thought it was a good 1st step. On my Beta I did the usual take sharp edges off plates they seem to suffer and machined so top hats to reduce the preload. Transformation. I've machined baskets etc on road and race bikes usually to add another plate when power has been increased (like my 500 kitted RZ350). But diaphragm are new to me. I guess that's kit is my next step if I'm still a loose cannon when I'm fit enough to do another Trial. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted 22 hours ago Report Share Posted 22 hours ago You might slow it down. It's awful fast with the stock gearing. Using a 9 tooth is the fastest choice. I prefer something in the middle. A 42 rear. I like a 9 and 38 actually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F5Dave Posted 20 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 20 hours ago Thanks, I did see people suggesting that. And it might be worthwhile exploring for other reasons. But thinking I probably do most trials in 2nd, maybe 1st If it's particularly snotty, or 3rd if its an open bit. The ratios are fairly close. I dont want to change in section, unless i come up to a big obstacle. It's a compromise. Gearing down makes it possible to have an in between choice, but also means your gear has a shorter usable range. Selecting the right gear at the start is important, but my issue is the current range of operation is let's say 1cm and I want 2cm. It was quite aggressive and you had to be precise, it does seem more tolerant of my more sloppy riding technique, but driveway is not tree roots etc. Might be 3 weeks till I can test it. Thanks for ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lemur Posted 10 hours ago Report Share Posted 10 hours ago Shorty levers moved way in on the bars, slack adjusted to provide comfortable bend and range for the clutch finger, gives you the most leverage and friction range possible and your lever will never crush your grip fingers 👍 3rd gear pulls from zero to biggest thing I can ride so I ride almost exclusively in 3rd but that really depends on the terrain you ride. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F5Dave Posted 2 hours ago Author Report Share Posted 2 hours ago Sadly my index finger doesn't have the power or another joint so I've had to start riding with my middle finger doing the work. Nice moccasins. My electric button is on the right. Any reason for the left? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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