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  1. Can I ask how are you re-charging the battery? Are you using a Lithium battery specific Charger, or charging from just running the bike. And if using a charger how are you connecting it, as there is a relay within the battery "box", so you have to make the connection on the battery side of the relay, not on the bike side.
  2. Hi Gary You need to split the cases, and remove the LHS Main Bearing to gain access to that seal. Once the LHS crank main bearing is removed you can get that seal out by pressing it towards the centre line of the bike. They do not come out together.
  3. Just from personal experience I would put your crank in the left hand case (not in the right hand one where you currently have it). Put the primary drive gear on the right hand side, and fit the circlip, so at least then you know that the crank assembly is "home". Put the gear set in Neutral to do all this. Also put the engine dowel pins in the RHS case. (not the left where you have them). This allows you to fit the gasket on the right hand side case properly. Then you are just placing the left hand side case over the RHS like a cap. As you lower it down make sure the kick start spring goes into the appropriate hole in the case, then it should just drop down until the last few millimetres when the left hand side of the crank is seating into the LHS main bearing. It may need a gentle tap then just to fit this flush, but it is usually not much.
  4. There is two seals in the Master Cylinder. So you can have a knackered internal seal (the one that actually does the work), but if the outside seal is still good you will not see any leaks. Commonly there is two small holes in the reservoir tank base. One supplies the oil to the hydraulic line, and hence it supplies the force on the slave. The other is just there to lubricate the body of the piston, so supplies a little oil between the outside and inside seals as a way of reducing friction between the piston and the bore. If that internal seal leaks - the fluid will bypass slightly and end up back in the reservoir instead of pushing on the slave 100%. Very very common issue on all AJP, Gremica and Braktec seals as they age.
  5. CHASSIS#explanation.pdf
  6. It's unlikely it will be the clutch plates. Much more likely it needs Master cylinder, and/or slave cylinder seal kit. When the seals are knackered it bypasses oil past the damaged seal and then doesn't push the clutch plates apart far enough to get full disengagement. Hence the drag. Should be a relatively cheap fix.
  7. arnoux

    Gas gas 2000 txt

    The part number is R310104, if you search by that part number you will find stockists (they still exist )!
  8. Check you actually had coolant in it, and the fan / thermostat are working. The water pump impellers very rarely fail on Gas Gas. The shafts and seals wear allowing bypass of coolant into the gearbox, but this you can tell super easy by the condition of the oil in the sight glass. if coolant is leaking past the seal the oil will go milky and not stay transparent. That sort of nip up around the exhaust port (the hottest part of the combustion chamber) is a classic case of the fan probably not operational, and the bike was running hot, or it had little or no coolant in the system. Get you cylinder re coated, chuck a new slug in it, but test that thermo switch is working, and when it switches the fan is coming on. If everything is working as it should you can "pin it" up any hill!
  9. https://www.thehellteam.com/technical-support/gas-gas-parts-and-service-manuals.html
  10. This has to be taken into account with the other parts that have changed though. Mainly the Belville spring thickness, and the pre-load plate (with the 10 screws) that clamps down on the said spring. Early bikes had a 1.7mm thick spring, MT280232015. Then in 2006 Gas Gas went to a 1.5mm spring MT2806320015, then in 2015 they went to a 1.2mm thick spring MT22020GG-CGI-1, all affecting the clutch action. There is also different pre-load plates. It is not just the combined stack height that affects clutch action.
  11. Unfortunately I am out now too. I have the piston pucks, but no rubber seals left, sorry.
  12. The 3 different positions adjust the amount of preload on the Bellville spring. You want to be in the greatest pre-load position, so clamping down on the plates firmer. The 2020 has a 1.2mm Bellville. Earlier bikes had 1.5mm and even 1.7mm on the first years of the Pro motor. So clamped harder, and released harder, but at the slight expense of a stiffer lever. The 2020 is very light. Check you combined plate height. You want the 5 plates to be up around 9.98 - 10mm, this gives you the maximum pre-load on the spring. See how you go with that, and if you want it more aggressive get a 1.5mm Bellville to try.
  13. As above, just pull the Airbox, and fuel tank, then remove the radiator to give you a bit more room, and then the top end can be removed quite easily.
  14. Non standard finish on the fork springs, stock ones are not painted. These files may help you with parts numbers. GAS GAS RAGA aluminum 06.pdf Marzochhi forks Parts.pdf
  15. If you search by Part numbers you will find a supplier. Try BIT050620007 this is for a 2006 model or BIT05052007 this is for a 2005 model (just the seventh digit changes to reflect the year it was current for, so try 4, 7 etc etc - whatever year you specifically need to make the stickers match. Also some early years were blue plastics, then they went to red) They are the same plastics just different stickers and will fit all BOY50 from 2002 onwards.
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