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motoswm

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  1. Blimey, where do I start on this one. Here are my top 5 useful bits of information on stripping an SWM motor. 1. Drain the oil through the circular drain plug(allen key to undo) not the kickstart return stop...this you can leave in place and motor will strip/rebuild with it in situe. 2. Remove the 13mm hex head bolt that sits between the fins on the crank case just below the exhaust port. Stick a thin screwdriver through the hole and slowly rotate the motor....there is a hole machined into the crank shell. If you then get a long M8 bolt and insert it so the end locates in the hole it locks the crank at TDC, and you can then undo the crank and flywheel nuts. 3. With the crank locked and before removing anything, select first gear and you can undo the sprocket nut...dont forget to remove the crank lock bolt before splitting the cases. 4. Invest in a proper clutch holding tool, they are £20 on ebay and will save you breaking the pillers off the plate that the springs sit on. 5. Put the new main bearings on the crank before assembly and build the crank and gearbox into the right side casing. Keep pressure on the inside of the selector barrel when putting the casings together or the tensioner arm will pop out and jam behind it. Hope this helps Martin
  2. Yes, internal main bearing....the additional bearing is to cope with the heavy flywheel. Motor parts list here that will help http://www.motoswm.co.uk/tech/
  3. Twist the stator backing plate clockwise and tap it from behind with a block of wood and a small hammer. Hit it evenly on the rear of the 3 cover mounting points...dont beat the hell out of it as they will crack or break, but a few gentle taps that move it 2 or 3 mm at a time will get it off. If you are lucky the bearing will come off at the same time, if not 3 arm puller is required.
  4. Its likely to be one of two things. 1. The lock nut on the selection pawl has worked loose. This adjusts how much throw there is on the selector mechanism and therefore how far it rotates the barrel when selecting gears. If its not pushing the barrel around enough, it won't engage the gears. 2. The selector mechanism is bent. Sounds unlikely I know, but check out the photo below. This is from a 175 Can am enduro engine I rebuilt back in June, it had come to me unable to get out of 1st gear, The mech on the left is a good one...the one from the 175 motor on the right. Owner reports that it works 100% perfectly now this has been changed.
  5. 220cc in each leg....strangely enough same as the 35mm version. 10W is what I normally use.
  6. Building a Francis Barnett with a 32A motor and seem to have starting issues from cold. Motor has been totally rebuilt, new piston, crank, mains, seals etc and is fitted with a new Electrex world ignition and new Amal concentric carb from Villiers services. Running a Villiers service front pipe and Alan Wright WES silencer. From cold it doesnt seem to be getting enough fuel, but when you check the plug its fouled. Once hot, it runs and starts fine. Can anyone confirm the best plug to use with this set up and also what pilot jet should be in the Amal. Cheers
  7. Project Armstrong mono update...everything complete and now ready for the final strip down and some new paint. The final part of the jigsaw was a new sump guard.
  8. Patrik...lost your email, but its the 33t sleeve gear that the final drive sprocket fits onto. Fastfred....I will give John Collins a buzz tomorrow.
  9. Hi All Happy New Year Can anyone help with a problem on a 340 model 199B six speed gearbox ? Looking for a sleeve gear like in the photo....just with all of the teeth on it. I have tried Dave Renham at InMotion and Bellavista in Barcelona without any luck. Don't mind new or used, just hoping to get it all back together and running again. Cheers Martin
  10. Good idea Ross, I will ask around to see if anyone has one. I have tried SWM sumpshields, where the Armstrong is different is the front mounting point which is a lot higher up than other Rotax powered bikes. So I think fabrication is the only answer. Thanks for the suggestion though.
  11. Decided to do an air cooled mono, after spotting a frame, tank and seat for an Armstrong at this years Telford Show. With only 80 ever made, it hasn't been the most straight forward renovation, but its getting close to completion. Everything mechanical has been done and its all running and riding.....however 2 parts have eluded the search. Its missing the airbox and sump shield. I have resigned myself to the fact that both will need to be made from scratch, unless anyone out there has anything they want to sell ? If there was anyone with a complete Armstrong/Can Am mono that would be kind enough to take their bash plate off and draw round it for a pattern, I would of course be eternally grateful.
  12. Did you spot on the original carb settings for the 125 that the mixture screw is 2.5 turns out ??
  13. Yellow for trials, Green is mx/enduro, Red road.
  14. 1. Are you using Domino levers...if not you may need to alter the cable. 2. Is everything assembled as shown in the attached diagram....is the thrust plate the correct way round, are there 2 x 3mm thick washers either side of the bearing/basket, do you have 6 friction plates, separated by 5 x 1mm thick metal plates and one 1.5mm metal plate on the outside of the basket. 3. Is the clutch adjusted correctly. Slacken off the cable ant the handlebar end. Wind in the grub screw on the clutch arm until it just touches the thrust plate, then take up the slack at the lever end. Use this as a starting point and adjust the grub screw by a quarter turn at a time until it frees off and doesn't slip....but remember to slacken off at the handlebar end every time you adjust.
  15. Saw T-shock 250's dad at Telford Ross.....not much further in 9 years !!!