motoswm

@mudyman These are brand new badges that have been moulded in plastic, using a set of new originals as a pattern......so they are exactly the same size and material.

Moulded plastic just like the originals

If you find an Aprilia TXR or Climber clutch cover, make sure you get hold of the clutch pressure plate and the centre hub, makes it feel about 20% lighter over the standard SWM parts

Hi. Anyone got a Puma or Vasquez Bultaco 340 fitted with a 26mm PHBH Dellorto carb ? I am working on a 340 that I have fitted an SWM carb and it seems to run fine, but wanted to check if pilot jet, main jet, needle, atomiser and slide were comparable. Currently running 60 pilot, 90main, X2 needle, AV266 atomiser, 70 slide. Thanks in advance Martin

Brownie001....did you not read the post with all the info on the 200 PECO conversions ???? All the parts used were Rotax, the 62mm piston is used in the 175 enduro bikes. They didn't at any time use a piston from a 185 Suzuki, which incidentally is a 64mm bore. I do seem to recall that this piston was used to convert some of the early 125 Fantics. I had in my possession years ago, a Fantic top end with one fitted and a reed valve conversion.

Blimey, where do I start on this one. Here are my top 5 useful bits of information on stripping an SWM motor. 1. Drain the oil through the circular drain plug(allen key to undo) not the kickstart return stop...this you can leave in place and motor will strip/rebuild with it in situe. 2. Remove the 13mm hex head bolt that sits between the fins on the crank case just below the exhaust port. Stick a thin screwdriver through the hole and slowly rotate the motor....there is a hole machined into the crank shell. If you then get a long M8 bolt and insert it so the end locates in the hole it locks the crank at TDC, and you can then undo the crank and flywheel nuts. 3. With the crank locked and before removing anything, select first gear and you can undo the sprocket nut...dont forget to remove the crank lock bolt before splitting the cases. 4. Invest in a proper clutch holding tool, they are £20 on ebay and will save you breaking the pillers off the plate that the springs sit on. 5. Put the new main bearings on the crank before assembly and build the crank and gearbox into the right side casing. Keep pressure on the inside of the selector barrel when putting the casings together or the tensioner arm will pop out and jam behind it. Hope this helps Martin

Yes, internal main bearing....the additional bearing is to cope with the heavy flywheel. Motor parts list here that will help http://www.motoswm.co.uk/tech/

Twist the stator backing plate clockwise and tap it from behind with a block of wood and a small hammer. Hit it evenly on the rear of the 3 cover mounting points...dont beat the hell out of it as they will crack or break, but a few gentle taps that move it 2 or 3 mm at a time will get it off. If you are lucky the bearing will come off at the same time, if not 3 arm puller is required.

Its likely to be one of two things. 1. The lock nut on the selection pawl has worked loose. This adjusts how much throw there is on the selector mechanism and therefore how far it rotates the barrel when selecting gears. If its not pushing the barrel around enough, it won't engage the gears. 2. The selector mechanism is bent. Sounds unlikely I know, but check out the photo below. This is from a 175 Can am enduro engine I rebuilt back in June, it had come to me unable to get out of 1st gear, The mech on the left is a good one...the one from the 175 motor on the right. Owner reports that it works 100% perfectly now this has been changed.

220cc in each leg....strangely enough same as the 35mm version. 10W is what I normally use.

Building a Francis Barnett with a 32A motor and seem to have starting issues from cold. Motor has been totally rebuilt, new piston, crank, mains, seals etc and is fitted with a new Electrex world ignition and new Amal concentric carb from Villiers services. Running a Villiers service front pipe and Alan Wright WES silencer. From cold it doesnt seem to be getting enough fuel, but when you check the plug its fouled. Once hot, it runs and starts fine. Can anyone confirm the best plug to use with this set up and also what pilot jet should be in the Amal. Cheers

Project Armstrong mono update...everything complete and now ready for the final strip down and some new paint. The final part of the jigsaw was a new sump guard.

Patrik...lost your email, but its the 33t sleeve gear that the final drive sprocket fits onto. Fastfred....I will give John Collins a buzz tomorrow.

Hi All Happy New Year Can anyone help with a problem on a 340 model 199B six speed gearbox ? Looking for a sleeve gear like in the photo....just with all of the teeth on it. I have tried Dave Renham at InMotion and Bellavista in Barcelona without any luck. Don't mind new or used, just hoping to get it all back together and running again. Cheers Martin

Good idea Ross, I will ask around to see if anyone has one. I have tried SWM sumpshields, where the Armstrong is different is the front mounting point which is a lot higher up than other Rotax powered bikes. So I think fabrication is the only answer. Thanks for the suggestion though.