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Beta: Gunk In The Radiator?


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#1 Magicmat

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 07:34 PM

Hi All,

Having recently acquired a 2006 Beta Rev3, I feel i have already fallen into a pit fall :(

I have gone to give the bike a good service and started to change the coolant and I have found what i can only describe as mayonaise, which i know is oil and water mixing :(

The previous owner thinks that there was radwell in the system, however that just doesnt make sense??

However I thought i'd throw a few pictures up on there, see if you agree?

- what the fix is going to be
- whats the damage possibility done?

:angry:

So first up the radiator:

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When i took the water pump off

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After i cleaned the water pump housing out

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You can see the seal is at an angle and i wonder if its the issue?

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Then a look at the gearbox oil, which is Putoline oil, (thats what was on the shelf, so i believed him)

..its hard to get the light right, with an LED Torch, but i tried to get the colour

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Ideas ?? ..

#2 Magicmat

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 07:35 PM

Dont know why the pictures are rather large, sorry

#3 rev3

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 07:37 PM

get a new side casing and seals. you will need to flush the gearbox through with ATF and also you will need to flush out the cooling system.

common fault on Beta's.

#4 Magicmat

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 07:43 PM

Is a new side casing really necessary?

#5 rev3

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 07:48 PM

It's always better to be safe than sorry. I got everything for just over £110.

Looking at the seal it looks like whoever fitted it never put it in correctly. you might be lucky if you're careful getting the old seal out that a new one will be ok.

#6 Magicmat

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 07:51 PM

Rev3,

do you mean that removing the old seal can knacker the seat within the casing? ..hence why you need a knew housing??

Is this the only reason for replacing the side casing? at £77 i think for a side casing i'd rather avoid having to buy one ::(

#7 paul w

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 07:55 PM

its hard to tell from the photos. look inside the case, the inside of the water pump as it were the other side where the water pump drives from. if you can see perforation here its a new case i'm afraid. I hav'nt done one for a while now but i think they came down in price, (£80 ish?) you would be as well to replace the water pump shaft bearings, and all the seals while its in bits.
Like the previous post said wash out the water system really well, then refil with a good quality coolant.
Gearbox, i usually but half a litre of petrol in the gearbox, start the bike on a stand with the rear wheel off the floor up and down through the gearbox twice and drain , refil with ATF.

#8 Magicmat

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 08:01 PM

Thanks Paul

But what do you mean perforation? corrosion on the back/inside of the pump?

#9 betabonkers

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 08:04 PM

I done my mates the other day, all the bits came to 103 pound, once its done you wont have anymore problem.

#10 Magicmat

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 08:18 PM

BetaBonkers,

where was that from, and what bits did you change?

Not really wanted i wanted when buying, I just bought a tyre and fluids today coming in at £100, didn't really envisage another £100 :wall:

Edited by Magicmat, 04 February 2012 - 08:20 PM.


#11 paul w

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Posted 05 February 2012 - 09:30 AM

Hi , Yes, looking at the water pump part of the clutch casing it looks to have made tiny holes in the metal. if you turn it over you shold be able to see really small holes where the pressurised water has entered the gearbox. If these are not visible then the water is getting into the gearbox through another entry point (seal). I am pretty sure i can see the holes in the case.
p.s. these are the best photos i have seen on here, its the only way to diagnose problems.

#12 Magicmat

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Posted 05 February 2012 - 12:55 PM

View Postpaul w, on 05 February 2012 - 09:30 AM, said:

Hi , Yes, looking at the water pump part of the clutch casing it looks to have made tiny holes in the metal. if you turn it over you shold be able to see really small holes where the pressurised water has entered the gearbox. If these are not visible then the water is getting into the gearbox through another entry point (seal). I am pretty sure i can see the holes in the case.
p.s. these are the best photos i have seen on here, its the only way to diagnose problems.

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the comment on the photos, my other half is a photography teacher so i pinched her new compact camera. If your going to put pictures up, you may has well do decent ones. I'll also leave these up so others can see and compare.

I've looked at the bike again this morning, the water pump shaft doesn't have any in/out play, but it does have some side to side play, its not sloppy, just a small amount of moment.

I've taken the clutch cover off and this is what i've found:

I cant see any pitting on the inside tho

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Looking from the front of the water pump, shows that the internals are pitted, i'm guessing this is the corrosion which eventually goes through??

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A look at the engine oil, does look like milk, but when i drained the rad, 600ml of water definitely didn't come out.

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From my research on here, it seems that its worth changing the pump bearings and seal, suppose the shaft can be done as well. Just need to decide whether its worth changing the casing ??? part of me is concerned that the pitting on the impeller is going to ome through sooner rather than later :(

#13 Magicmat

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Posted 05 February 2012 - 01:01 PM

Can anyone also make a suggestion for a good, but also cheap enough supplier of the parts?

#14 Pistonbroke

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Posted 05 February 2012 - 03:52 PM

View PostMagicmat, on 05 February 2012 - 01:01 PM, said:

Can anyone also make a suggestion for a good, but also cheap enough supplier of the parts?

Lampkins ??
If it aint broke,fix it till it is !!!

I was told to get in shape, I am in shape, Round is a shape !!

#15 betabonkers

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Posted 05 February 2012 - 10:06 PM

I got the bits up a b motorcycles merthyr, casing, seal,shaft gaskets,didnt need impeller.





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