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faussy

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  1. It depends largely on terrain, and from what i know about the type of terrain lemur rides i can understand why he uses 3rd a lot. Personally im in 1st a lot more frequently than 3rd. Did you enjoy seeing toby on the mont @lineaway?
  2. The oiled balance gaernes are full grain leather. Their coloured boots are lorica, and so are sidis, but i think the inside of the calf on the sidis is leather. The sidis are not a confortable boot IMO, because of the lorica, possibly. The lorica gaernes are also inferior to the full grain version. In saying that, the gaernes are still a decent boot. Infact i think i remember way back hearing graham jarvis used to prefer the lorica version because they were stiffer. Alpinstars and forma are leather. The gaernes could be your only option, and in fairness, not a bad option Looks like the hebos could be at the very least part synthetic, hard to tell if its 100% syn https://www.dirtbikexpress.co.uk/products/hebo-tech-30-micro-black-trials-boots?variation=502510&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjww_iwBhApEiwAuG6ccM5-fZc_Fbr0Nd5ZxWjdzE8JmqIzT79DY3tydbkzrYBXXK70aw8iyBoC004QAvD_BwE
  3. The answer to your question is kind of yes and no What angle are your handlebars at? Most pros run their bars very far forward due to them spending most of their time on the back wheel. For general riding this adds a lot of weght to the wrists, though i doubt youve copied their bar positions. Looking at the bike from the side id aim for the part of the bars going up from the clamps to be roughly vertical, ie slightly foward from the projected line of the fork legs, but lesser riders tend to have them further back than this. Further forward is only useful for trick riding. Its really not the forwardness of the bars but how far back the footrests are on modern bikes that puts the weight through your arms. Most bike post 90 have similar riding positions. I actually find some 80s 90s bike worse for this because their footrest are just as far back but with a higher position than modern bikes. You could be riding too much in attack mode like you would when standing on an enduro or mx bike. Youre kind of holding onto the bars for dear life so to speak. As you improve, your relaxed riding stance may become a bit more straight backed, which relieves weight from the bars. In tight turns you want to position your weight preferentially over the front, but when riding straight you want to have most of your weight over the rear wheel through your legs. 90% of trials is about rear wheel grip and a light front end. If your arms are sore it sounds like youre loading the front end too much of the time
  4. A villiers based james/FB is a good bet if you want to go 2 stroke
  5. Your initial list is pretty good tbh. I wouldnt put too much stress on being able to static balance, moreso being able to ride super slow with the clutch in a controlled manner. I think it important being able to turn your bike in full lock while on relatively flat ground, which is virtually impossible without the use of some clutch and brake work. As for zapping/splatting, it all depends on the shape of the ledge or rock. You can still touch front rocks up to 6ft, but there becomes a point splatting is better. Splatting isnt really necessary for obstacles below 4ft, but you have to start practicing them on something, so may as well be on the small stuff.
  6. You dont say if you find your 300 too powerful. Given the age, its probably equivalent to a newish 250 regarding power. Depends what your intentions are. If its to do tight technical stuff id say keep it small, 250. If you want to ride it more like a trail bike, a montesa would maybe suit better. Getting a more modern bike will benefit you most with its lighter weight when it comes to hopping the bike around. Doesnt sound like you are at that stage yet. Will a new bike help? Yes, but for general riding around, clubman level riding and below, not that much
  7. Put an electric start on it https://www.greenlandmx.co.uk/en/electric-start-kit-txt-pro-contact/ET80001CT-CKW-1.html Only £1500 😀
  8. Theres no need to buy the complete inner and outter parts. AFAIK the s3 insert fits the standard 2023 style outter part. Id doubly check though. The inner part retails for around £60
  9. The carbon looks the best, but it may not be as strong as you hope. I see it more as scuff protection than rock protection. I have a pair of 2m frame guards on my gasgas and although i realise they are thin, one fall against a rock and it broke very easily. Theyre expensive to replace. I also have the 2m fork guards and they are really nice, they clip on with no zip ties required
  10. faussy

    SSDT Newbie

    This is them here
  11. I tend to agree, although to be honest you dont hear lots of problems with the vertigo, but if something were to go wrong it usually requires a laptop to diagnose it. I disagree on the point about footrest brackets, the gg is a steel frame, if you manage to somehow bend the frame here it can be straightened again. Ive seen the alloy framed montesas actually break the frame here The price difference to the gp i think is mostly around suspension. Engine performance difference isnt that noticeable
  12. Im biased towards gasgas. The GP is unnecessary, unless money is not a problem. Are you close to a vertigo dealer if something goes wrong with it? GG have a better dealer network now theyre under KTM. Other than that, neither is a bad bike
  13. I know youre not supposed to sit down on trials bikes, but the seat on that bike looks even more of a deterrent
  14. Theres no such thing as indefinitely in a 2 stroke. Where do you mean? The centre box or the tail pipe? Oil contamination forshortens the life of silencer packing before anything else. Scorpa said their sy silencer had ceramic packing that never needed changing. Bikes started to sound rough and performance dropped after about a year. It may have a better chance in a 4 stroke. Otherwise i like your thinking. The non woven stuff i would imagine being the best. Also, many people think silencer packing is only to silence the bike. Engine performance is extrememly dependent on packing type and density. Glass fibre isnt heavy, so theres neglibgle weight savings. If the time to clog the cf is the same as the gf, i dont see where the benefit comes from. But im also tempted to try lol
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