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gasgasshetland

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Posts posted by gasgasshetland
 
 
  1. Got to the bottom of my issue. Turns out the new main bearings I installed are to wide. Correct size 22.95mm wide on the centre race. The one I took out thinking I done something wrong turned out to be 23.03 mm so no wonder it wasn't right.

    I had sent a video to factory Kev at GasGas uk and he told me of the issue of the Xiu bearings coming from the factory incorrectly machined.

    Now have managed to get a correct sized set so going to get them installed and hopefully that will it all be sorted.

    To say am p****d off with it is an understatement.

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  2. Hi There, I have rebuilt my 2014 pro racing with new crank main bearings. All sounded good when rotating prior to putting in he clutch assembly. Whilst doing the rebuild I changed the kickstart half gear and the idler gear it contacts with as they were both damaged. Am now thinking that the clutch basket gear and the main gear on the crank will need to be changed having read that even hairline scratches can cause them to be noisy. I have inspected them and they look ok ,but can't think of anything else to try. It seems that the clutch basket and main gear are a matched pair at around £200.

    Has anyone any experience of the clutch basket causing a lot of noise. It doesn't go away with pulling in the clutch.

  3. Have been getting some problems with misfiring when the bike is hot. Had spoke to one of the parts supply company's and they said that they had heard of some issues with the hidria ignition which at the time of discussing it with them I did not know what was on my bike. Turns out that I have the hidria system. Heard of some of the pro/semi pro riders swapping to the kokosan ignition. But I have put a new voltage regulator on as it's heat sink bracket had broken off so might just be that at the root of problem. Not had a chance to test bike as am working on another problem.

  4. Yeh was lined up. Got the bearing out yesterday on the gearbox side there was a lot of rust present on the small wire cage of the bearing. Also the small oring on the sprocket output shaft was split so possible water ingress into the oil through there. The bike has been a constant piece of work since getting it new, and it's my third GasGas but looking like it might be my last.

  5. Can anyone tell me who in the uk sells the Xiu main bearings for GasGas pro. As this is the second time I'm having to replace them since the bike was new in May 2014 and not too keen to get the same type again from GasGas as 11 months and 17 months just doesn't seem very long for them to be lasting.

  6. Hi zuendapp. Thanks for reply. Yeh I had put new orings in the head. The idler gear is indeed damaged ( not a whole tooth on it) as is the kickstart half gear. Corners missing from it. So that might account for some of the noise, but when I turn the crank using con rod it sounds rough, so going to get some bearings and replace them again. Heard about bearing quality between 2013/2015 from GasGas not being to great so trying to find either SKF bearings or Xiu bearings. Going to phone around this afternoon after work and see what I can get. Had two 2nd hand GasGas trials bikes before and no problems and since I got this one new in 2014 nothing but issues. Think it might be my last GasGas and move to a Honda Mont

  7. Can anyone advise me on how to remove the stator on a 2014 pro. I've removed the bolts but it's not keen to come off. It all looks too fragile to be getting in and prying it off.

    Im stripping bike to put new mains in again. Second time it's needed new main bearings since buying it new in May 2014. ?

  8. Hi Guys, interesting reading the thread about main bearings. I bought my bike new in May 2014 it's a 300 racing. Since buying it I have had to have the main bearings replaced in April 2015 as the bike was really noisy. I have had continual issue with the oil going milky. I have extended the crankcase breather up high. Upgraded to the 2015 water pump last April and have changed from ATF oil to putoline light gear oil. The bike started intermittently misfiring and black smoke coming out silencer when trying to rev it to clear it which did work. But a few weeks ago the bike started growling again as when I had to have the main bearings done last year.

    Last year I was lucky and my brother in law did the rebuild for me as he is an engineer and into bikes, but am about to try the job myself. My biggest worry is keeping the gearbox intact. Is this easy enough?

  9. 2014 pro racing had it from new.

    Fuel is from pump. Not race fuel have used octane booster in the past but stopped using it.

    Have been running it with a bit too much 2t oil in the fuel. But now running 62/65 ml per 5 litres as advised by GasGas mechanic.

    No3 slide in the keihin pwk28 carb.

    New plug installed as well.

    Inline fuel filter fitted and have just set float height to standard setting as they were a bit off.

  10. Can anyone enlighten me on how to cure the persistent knocking and pinking sound from my GasGas pro 300 racing. It makes the sound under a bit of throttle load.

    I've read about other makes such as jotagas having the same problem and a change of head insert curing it.

    Any advice welcomed

  11. Hi Guys, just wondering if anyone knows if the new modified waterpump on the 2015 Gasgas pro's will fit the 2014 model bike. I bought my 300 pro racing last may the week after the SSDT and the water pump seal would appear to be failing. The oil going milky. I had to renew the pump a couple of times on my old pro and see that the new bike has a modified pump to reduce the regularity of of needing to redo the seal etc.

    I was hoping that if it fits I was going to try and get it changed to the new type

  12. Thanks again for the replies. Hadn't adjusted clutch and there is free play between fully off and lever being pulled in. Thanks for the note regards LHM being correct fluid. Spoke to dealer and they are getting back to me but possible that the piston is sticking in the master cylinder so hopefully get that sorted and be good then.

  13. Cheers for the replies. I haven't used dot 4 etc. I will try getting the air out of the system. The only mineral oil I had found at an autoshop was comma. LHM+ mineral oil. Wasn't sure if it would be ok. Thought I would talk to appleyards tomorrow to ask about what oil. It's just a it annoying what with it being brand new and having to start working on it. Haven't even managed to fall off it properly yet!! Though am sure it's going to happen soon enough

  14. Hi there, I bought a new Gasgas pro racing a couple of weeks ago and each time i have ridden it the clutch lever pumps up until i can only pull it part way in. This happens when riding in tight rocky type sections when using the clutch a lot. It can be temporarily sorted by fully letting the clutch lever out. My thoughts are there is possibly air in the system.

    Has anyone else had this problem and what type of mineral oil is recommended. tried the dealer today but they are closed due to the holiday i suspect.

    Any advice would be welcomed

  15. Hi there , I am looking for route markers for setting out trials routes. Trying to get some trials competitions up in Shetland. We have quite a few folk with bikes but no formal club as yet. Trying to get a a couple of small events going to try to get interest up in competition. I have the flags type but I am looking at where I can get the coloured plastic that can be layed on rock and held in place with a stone etc. can anyone suggest where i can source this type of markers.

  16. OK here goes..

    From the sprocket side, the flat spindle end should have a thick washer at the head, this is pushed through the drive side of the swinging arm with one snail cam after the washer push through the fork end and through the brake plate, through the hub which has two bearings fitted with an internal hollow spacer.

    As the spindle exits the hub you can fit an alloy spacer available from Bultaco UK to do away with the speedo drive, otherwise its the speedo drive which butts on to the offside inner race of the wheel bearing, possibly a distancing washer about 2-3mm thick against the swinging arm wheel mount offside, then the snail cam and then a thick washer on the outside of the fork end and the spindle nut.

    Hope this helps.

    Big John

    I am not sure if my 175 Sherpa is the same there is a large diameter washer between the brake plate and swinging arm It is not that thick (2or 3mm). The speedo drive on the right side will depend on the type you are using ie (after market type)

    Thanks for your help on this . am off to the garage to check it out and hope fully have it sorted today.

    Cheers

    Gary

 
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