Nice job and yes the aluminium parts should be as bright blue as shown in the picture. Just the snails they have not been coloured instead left natural in aluminium grey.
The parts on my bike are too purple by sun radiation...
I had once written up the color code in RAL but can't find the notice. I can look up the color code again no problem if not someone else has the numbers at hand.
That's a nice bike model and I have a similar bike, I have done a restoration on one TR34 too but left all parts if possible original, no new paint job, still tons of things done:
- rechromed and aligned stanchions,
- new clutch, new kick-start mechanism, new primary drive, (the complete set-up),
- new conrod, piston, cylinder plating,
- new rear silencer and overhauled pipe which had to get a paint job*
- new reeds, carb completely overhauled, airfilter, new rubber air-box to carb and carb to intake,
- new cables and brake hoses, overhauled calipers and actuators front and rear, new brake discs,
- ignition overhauled, (new electronic parts), as it is prune to fail,
- new chain and sprockets,
- new tires, wheel bearings and seals,
* I choosed grey as a paint for the exhaust as it was formerly just clear coated, as pulling out /repair the dents and finishing the pipe left some traces.
Wow not only to the tools but especially to the new crank room and cylinder basement. What an effort I know of only one engine where this was made too to fit a bigger cylinder and crank to a smaller engine block and that was a small serial production of about 50 engines.
I too like the engine stand made out of wood beams. Something I do too for various occasions like wheels, rear shocks, swing arm and so one as they are so easy and cheap to make from left over carpenter jobs and afterwards you can burn them up in the oven producing heat
Brakes and yokes (triple clamps) are from the 242 model, the 242 and their successor where further developed, model 304, 307, 309 and 310 ending with the 311.
After the model 350 there came the Cota 330 and the the last Cota 335 which ws the last big cc bike, the 242 and later 304 where simply easier to ride in comparison.
A mineral deficiency is usually the cause of convulsions/cramps. It's often an electrolyte disorder, with a deficiency of magnesium.
Give magnesium pills a try, these are priceworthey and not dangerous. The effect not getting cramps should occur after a couple of days, if so magnesium deficiency was the case.
Hole grain products, bananas and cheese have much magnesium inside as a tip.
The bike did run fairly good with the Amal carb, but was slow in response, it felt supersmooth but was a bit liveless for my personal taste.
As the Amal had worn itself down (both slide and body), one screw was sheared off, the zinc die cast is an issue for itself ... So I looked up the PHBH as it's contemporary.
The bike changed it's attitude being now much more lively and revs up quicker, it also have now an ultra low idle. However the engine does hold the revs a bit long after closing the throttle in my opinion.
In all it's an advantage for me, if it would be for you can be questionable.
The air screw sits at the rear towards the direction of the air filter and regulates how much air will go to the idle nozzle, the result is a qualitative setting,
The fuel mixing located towards the intake of the engine regulates the amount of gas leaving the idle nozzle (already premixed with the air) which is a quantitative setting.
You have more possibilities when using the air screw but too a bit more harder work to determine what's right
I had some testing involved and finally got an good result, I checked first in the garage, than as usual decided to go with something different but at the field test out side I had to change again and again until being pleased.
Montesa 242 now mounted with a Dell'Orto PHBH CS carb, (Yes with air screw as it's advanced in technology compared to the fuel screw type*).
I also exchanged the tiny original exhaust tube at the end for the aluminum WES type which reduces loudness a lot is as heavy or light because twice as big.
The result:
carb: PHBH
type: CS
slide: 45
needle: X4 / X44
position: 3nd
choke: 60
idle jet: 60 winter, below 10°, (58 summer)
main jet: 95 winter, below 10°, (92 summer)
needle jet: 266
fuel valve: 200
* There is some rumor that air screw Dell'Orto's are a pain, that's not true, they simply are a bit more difficult to adjust but can provide a better performance.To the air screw, it's just the opposite in adjustment, turning in means richer and turning out leaner. The air effect takes time to affect the carb, for proper adjustment, use a slightly higher idle rpm, then really slowly turn the screw and begin with half a turn out until you reached the point where you have most rpm, then the air screw is adjusted. Anything below 1 turn and above 3 turns means you have to use another idle jet or nozzle.
I had some conversation with Larry during the years not much but some, it started by a personal message why I haven't been at this forum for a longer time also about my Sherpa.
He was a nice guy, I will miss his input and the talk about Bultacos and so on. I really appreciated that he truely cared.
Thank you about the information:
"Death is the surest calculation that can be made."
Sadly the bolt pattern to the TXR is super unique, also the pattern for the front disc mount is one of a kind. Then the engine uses internal a different gearing compared to all other previous or later Aprilias. So everything is a bit different here.
It depends to the size you want to have or if you like redneck solutions by simply adding holes where in need.
Here the bolt pattern with original rear sprocket:
I did not like the original 13 / 38 teeth set up with a 0.342 ratio it is for my taste too fast. As it is not possible to find any ressource for a good trials set up I started to try it out myself ...
I tried out a 12 / 42 teeth (0.285), still a tiny bit too fast, then a 11 / 42 teeth (0.262) which was a bit too slow, (and I wanted a smaller rear sprocket).
The 11 /42 can be seen below, I took a climber sprocket and just drilled additional holes ...seen here
I have now custom fabricated a 40 teeth rear sprocket to fit the 11 teeth front 0.275 which I think will suit my needs.
The sprocket above was made by alphatechnic in Germany.
The front pipe of the 198A or any 250 does not fit (tried to fit one) as the mounting bracket is smaller and the studs holes in the mounting bracket are narrower.
Christ, what a right bunch of miserable *******s hang out on this forum, eh? 8 replies and only one worthy comment to address the question, is this what these forums are supposed to be about? One **** that keeps posting Blade Runner links, another who has issues with where I live, and now the wise old safety police shows up. Quality stuff lads. I'm guessing the only one that actually owns a Vertigo is the one with the good post. Hopefully you lot can take out your frustrations with some riding this weekend - assuming you still ride.
2 hours ago, sammyd173 said:
Well that's just being nasty now. Talking of mothers, what would yours say if she saw what a mean-spirited person you've become? I'm sure she'd be disappointed. She'd say, "b40rt, why are you being mean to the other grown-ups on your motorcycle forum?
And you'd say, 'But mum, this man showed up and it was his first time in the forum and he posted a video of himself showing off riding around and it made me feel a bit jealous and angry, and he didn't even do the 'I'm a newb' thing or offer to put his flame suit on! And then the other men on there started being a bit mean and unfriendly and it made me want to join in with them.'
And your mum would say, 'Now b40rt, and that's a silly screen name by the way, I agree that the video was a bit much for a first post, but really, asking him about his sexuality? How old are you now?"
And you would just look down and the floor and feel like a bit of a c*nt.
=)
Wow ... well to be honest:
YOU are showing of a video whilst riding the quietest modern trials 4 stroke bike available so quite that you can ride through a flock of aries without disturbing them, see here:
But yours seems to be obviously louder and then asking how to get the bike quiter (again).
And then where your live, the forum is based in Britain and so are most members, the UK is a country that "invented" the English Garden there are as I know only Danes more picky then the British about gardening. And You are showing us grounds/properties with rumped tree and vegetation less, with plasticfoil like fences and gas containers in the main entrance. (even me - as a German!- is appalled at the desolation).
Then your other "equipment", here the kind of helmet of course you can do whatever you want, but firstly it's not imitative and second it is not legal. So much consideration could have paid to the other members of these forum to wear at least a real helmet?
So all in all your threat opening question gave the audience here a lot room for ironic answers, and in Britain are living the masters of ironic humor that is your problem, as how you shout in the forest the answer will be.
In my opinion you should wear better protection and the Honda-Montesa 4RT is in loudness a downgrade the bike will never be as quite as the Beta.
The bike has main compounds of todays make mounted so can't be used in our (in DE) classes in either twinshock nor aircooled mono as the engine is litterary brand new. And as longer I think about it as more I feel very comfortabel about our rule.
Why hasn't the builder used a Dax 90 engine or even better a Honda Cub engine of the right time period. You get them for little money everywhere.
Then it would be no problem to use the bike im any twinshock class. The twinshock class is dedicated to classic and vintage motorcycles. Here the builder has made it for himself too easy and that to the cost of other riders still trying to keep their old engine running, (a complete engine less expensive then a top job for a Fantic 125 is a problem).
The standard OEM fork type head steady works great as long as you mount it as the last engine mount and when de- assembling take this part at first away.
Second you don't want to put stress on the plate of the fork type head stead by bending it. You need to unthighten and loosing the nut and the bolt to the cylinderhead so it's possible to de- mount the headsteady with ease.
To the sprockets I run 10/39 when I remember right? (have to look up)
My personal two cent as also having something with wide spread knobbys in the shed... There are standard inner tubes and reinforced innertubes available. The reinforced are around 4mm in thickness and used mostly for Enduro riding and as these innertubes are too very heavy I don't see any advantage mounting these to a trials bike.
Mmh first you need to take away all dirt. Thus is done the best and easiest way by using car wash shampoo and a smooth brush. Take a big bucket and wash there the tank with much hot water and shampoo. It's astonishing how much you get off. Then there might be some grease oil or others debris left where you need something differnent more a solvent like.
Here I had good result with acetone on a fresh rag just applied to the cloth then once wiping form top to bottom. Never use used parts of the cloth twice.
Then you will have a dull and partly even whitened gas tank. Now a short treatment with a heat gun with about 200 - 300 deg Celsius and the dull surface will melt up to a silk glosse surface. (All gas has to be drained in advance the drained gas tank should too be stored with cap removed for at least two days the opening should be facing down).
Done ... it needs some skills especially the last step. But I don't know a better way to sort the rough surface of the plastic tanks.
You might try out the handling of a heat gun before with an old scratched fender or likewise plastic.
There are no pistons available and this sadly hasn't changed in the last three years beside one or two accidental findings at some dealers. Even frequently asking wount cure the problem?
250 - 300 GBP per piston of a run of 10 to 15! that are numbers.
As previous mentioned it may be the case that your piston is still reuse able but the cylinder needs an overhaul, but too the opposite can be necessary (the normal case btw.)
With a new plating of the cylinder often the con-rod and his bearings are at their end of their lifetime too then these should btw. also been replaced.
Get these three main parts checked as with the reasonable amount of money to spent already for one of them it doesn't make sense in the longer run to just replace one instead all three as if one of them fail or got to the end of wear it will effect the others too.
I personal had good experience with Woessner from coating (Nikasil), piston forged custom, con rod can be replicated by them too. (found a NOS in France). Woessner did the job very good and priceworthy btw. and you have a guarantee on the three main parts too.
Very useful information about how to dail in and adjust the suspension to your trials bike which covers modern and twinshock bikes and too rear suspension (shocks) and front suspension (forks). Static and dynamic say and so on ...
You can look up the complete article which was released in two parts in Trialsport Magazin No. 360 and No.361.
Back in the days when shocks where nothing else than mechanic springs with some damping far away of being progressive you could archive some progressive reaction when they where mounted with lower angle
That's why Ossa did it with their Gripper model and these (not very long lasting) Telesco shocks.
Luckily these times where over and progressive springs are no available.
TR34 rebuild
in Beta
Posted
Nice job and yes the aluminium parts should be as bright blue as shown in the picture. Just the snails they have not been coloured instead left natural in aluminium grey.
The parts on my bike are too purple by sun radiation...