Another option for springs is http://dfaulknersprings.com/ He can make one off springs tailored for rider weight, which is handy for unusual sized shocks and forks. http://proracing.co.uk/ rebuilt the shock for my 315 (is it the same one on earlier 4rt's ?), but his area is mx and enduro, so probably couldn't help much with set up. Assuming it hasn't been serviced before, at eight or nine years old, your shock may well be due for some gas and oil. Both were reasonably priced.
I'm going to get it hot to see if that replicates the problem. I asked a good time served bike mechanic about it, and he reckoned coils were a strong possibility. Are cheaper multimeters generally fit for home / diy use ? I should really have bought one years ago.
I can do the fix for the fuel tap with a little bolt, so that a normal person without freak show fingers can operate it. I've only ever turned it off when removing the tank and agree it would be good practice to switch the tap off when not in use. I'll treat it to an inline fuel filter for the PWK carb and a new plug as well.
Would an auto electrician likely have an appropriate oscilloscope if I can't pinpoint the problem myself ?
Went up the practice ground at the weekend. Bike starts second or third kick with choke, ticks over and runs fine, as usual. Rode around for an hour or so then came back to the van to get a drink and turned the bike off. Sat around for ten minutes or so then went to start the bike again and it would not start, dead as a a dodo, not a cough or splutter. Lots of kicking, trying with choke on / off, laid it down to check for fuel coming out of the overflow (which it did), no luck, so I packed up and went home.
Got home, washed the bike, and it started second or third kick with choke, as per usual. Stopped and started the engine several times no problems. Stops and starts fine today as well.
I can only imagine it is either electrical or fuel. Fuel was fresh out the pump, with fully synthetic at 70:1. The wiring loom is tidy with japanese connectors, no obvious damaged wires or connectors and it puts out a strong spark at the plug. Are any of the electrical components known to fail with age and wear ?
The bike is a 2000 315R. It does have non standard carbon fibre reeds and a PWK carb which have not caused reliabilty problems to my knowledge.
Any thoughts on what to check ? Got to be a dead cert next time it won't start will be in the middle of a trial
I've just fitted a Keihin PWK to my 2000 315R. Here's the jetting specs in case it's useful to anyone:
#48 slow
#118 main
GFH needle clip 1
3.5 slide
mixture screw 1 1/2 turns out
I should add that this bike has some sort of carbon fibre type reeds that I assume are non standard (I wouldn't be surprised the head had been skimmed and / or some porting done, the motor had that 'look' about it - unusually clean and free of casting marks etc when I did the mains a while back)
It does feel as though it would be ok with a #116 main or different needle to lean out the mid to top range a little more, but is fine as it is for my novice abilities.
The throttle response is much better than the previous dellorto PHBH. I was struggling with double blips but could do it straight away with the new carb.
I purchased the carb as a kit with airbox side reducer, small angled carb top and throttle cable from Allens Peformance It was over £200, but a worthwhile modification in my opinion. The downsides are that it is impossible to get at the tickover screw (could be fixed with one of those bendy adjuster things) and the float bowl overflow barely clears the cases, crushing the pipe.
Not needed any montesa specific parts for ages, so sorry if I've missed something blindingly obvious, but where are 315r parts available from at the moment in the UK? Sandifords shows up on google, but the link appears to be dead - no website available. I've spent a bit of time searching online and not really found anything concrete.
Got it done, runs a treat, especially bearing in mind the amount of gravel that had been through both the engine and gearbox !
If it's a help to anyone doing the same job, I took photos of the sequence I put all the stuff that's tightly squeezed in around the engine back together:
Got the job done. Special tools needed are crankcase puller and flywheel puller - I was incorrrect above - the flywheel puller is 32mm x 1.5mm pitch l/h thread. It's an unusual size: this firm can make custom pullers. I don't think there is much advantage to buying the main bearings from an engineering shop - the expensive parts are the seals.
Can anyone help ? I'm rebuilding an SY 250 for a mate. It came more or less as a box of bits, so it's all guesswork ! - I've rebuilt the engine with the help of the excellent Yamaha manual and the chassis is mostly self explanatory. However, I'm struggling with routing everything correctly: throttle cable, clutch pipe, wires, and where to fix all the electric stuff like the cdi box. Squeezing everything in around that big motor there's no room for error.
I've spent some time searching the web for information, but can't find anything. Does anyone know of a cable routing diagram ? Or even big digital photos (that would stay clear when zoomed in) of an SY 250 of similar age from either side with the tank off would be really helpful.
I'm preparing to replace the mains in my 315 also. Could anyone advise on the following:
Special Tools - Looks like I need to buy
- a M30 flywheel puller
-some sort of clutch or flywheel holder
-crankcase puller
-crankcase assembly tool
I can have use of a press and bearing puller. Have I missed anything ? Can I do without any of these items ? Presumably ebay will be ok to source them, but are there any particular models of any of these tools that are best for price / ease of use ?
Gaskets - Is it possible to buy a decent quality complete gasket set cheaper, instead of buying them all seperately from Sandifords ?
Neutral Gear - it's virtually impossible to select neutral with the engine running. Is this down to wear ? Is there anything I can do about this whilst the engine is on the bench, or is it just a characteristic that I'll have to live with ?
(I understand recommending suppliers is not allowed on this board, but please do PM me if you know of anywhere that can help with the above tools and / or parts)
It might be worth holding on to the thatcham approved chain if you want to insure against theft - I know MSM will require it for their TPFT policy.
So far as insurance goes, I regard it as the price you have to pay to get left alone (to some extent) by traffic police. Cover for theft and suchlike is incidental, and something of a lottery, as to whether you will actually be covered in the event of the worst happening. This is doubly so with trials and enduro bikes because they are so prone to theft and don't fit in very well with the legislation and insurers' rules concerning vehicles used on the road. I will no longer buy a bike or van that I can't afford to write off myself - it's not fair, but it's the way things are. We had an old trail bike stolen off the farm by some scrap collecting smack rats a few weeks back - it wasn't covered by the insurance, and although the police were told who had taken the bike, and where it was, by the time they got around to executing a warrant, it was long gone.
The MSM trials and enduro policy appears to be the best of what's available, and it's great to have an insurance broker who actually understands how the bikes they are selling insurance for will be used. As they are about the only firm around offering this niche service, market forces dictate that the policy price will not be that low.
Quick Straps allow the rider to put on or remove goggles one handed according to terrain. Having your goggles hanging off the side of your helmet can be a little annoying at first, but I found that I soon got used to it.
Gearbox oil leak - I'm struggling to identify the source of a small leak. There is some oil on the bash plate. I reckon it had only lost about 100ml when I measured the drained oil at oil change. Could be leaking from the clutch cover, engine cover or the join between the cases (hope not!) Is there a common leak on the 315 ?
Handlebars - The bars my bike came with are narrow compared with most at 28 1/2". I'm tempted to change them for something of a more standard size. Any recommendations for an average size rider (5'9") to fit the 315 ?
Foot rests - sagging a little and the teeth are worn and blunt. I could fix them, but again, am tempted to change them for something wider and more modern. Any suggestions ? Is it worth it ?
Yes, I would think so. The forks will be chrome underneath a very thin layer of Ti N. I recently had some marzocchi forks that originally had Ti N coating straightened and rechromed at Philpots in Luton. Long way from Germany though... Ti N coating is very thin and does tend to wear off with age - I wouldn't bother trying to replace the coating unless you happen to have friends in Formula 1 - there aren't many places that do it in the UK, and the difference in friction would be difficult to notice for the average rider - easier to just rechrome.
Just been filling out the entry to do my first trial. I'm a Earls Shilton member and they hold one trial per month. Do people generally join more than one club, so that they can compete more regular and ride on different types of terrain ? Or once you have an ACU licence, is it possible to go and ride at events run by other clubs on a one- off basis ? Getting ahead of myself, but interested to know.
I think I'm right in saying the 315 originally came with a lighting kit on. Mine certainly had a headlight and the remains of a Leonelli wiring loom. How hard will it be to fit a lighting kit ? - Depends on how many lights you need. A head light only would be a simple circuit. I can't imagine how you would go about fitting a tail / brake light to a trials bike - even a light weight LED enduro bike one would be too big and heavy, and would flap around like crazy. Indicators ? Horn ?
The wire from the lighting coils will be in the same sheathing as the ignition wire (ie the wires that come out of the ignition cover). Test the likely wire (it probably isn't connected to anything) by connecting it to a headlight bulb and earthing the bulb to the frame. Fire the bike up and see if the bulb lights. I'm sure you can work out the rest from there.
Got mine back from Pro Racing repaired and ready to go It sounds like these shocks are economically viable to service so long as the bladder has not been damaged, but you can't tell if it is ok without dismantling the shock.
Went to fetch out my 2000 315r for some friday afternoon practice, and there was a pool of oil under the rear shock (definitely not from the gearbox, before anyone asks)Have taken it to a long established (mx/enduro) suspension specialist. He wasn't too sure, but said he'd have a look and let me know.
Does anyone know of somewhere that can do the work on these shocks ?
Or do you really have to replace the shock when it needs servicing ? (seems like a rip off to me)
If a replacement shock is required, is there a better aftermarket item available in a similar price bracket ?
Yup, oil height. After the valving is covered with sufficient amount of oil, the important part is how much air you have above the oil, not how much oil.
Just been re-assembling the Showa forks from my 2000 year 315. I followed the manual, bleeding everything as described and filling with the specified quantity of fork oil. The figures I have are:
right fork: 407 cc fork oil to acheive 39mm air gap
left fork: 391 cc fork oil to acheive 97mm air gap
Problem is that the oil level appears to be 20mm+ too low in both cases.
I'm no suspension expert, but I do know that the oil level / air gap measurement is a critical one where a few mm difference will make a big difference. So it is important to get right.
Does anyone know for sure if any of the specifications in the manual are incorrect ?
I was initially under the impression that you were able to get at all the packing via the two window areas shown in the pics. Does your finished product have 4 windows, or did you go with two and leave some packing behind?
Cheers to ya...
Yeah, sorry, I didn't answer Q3 very clearly. Two windows, as per the pictures, is sufficient to get all the packing out. Takes some doing though...
but I'm only after a chain tensioner kit. Sandifords did them at about half the price of buying the parts individually.
It sounds like these shocks are economically viable to service so long as the bladder has not been damaged, but you can't tell if it is ok without dismantling the shock. 
Are 315R Brake Pads Discontinued?!
in Montesa
Posted
The pads for the two piston calipers are common to a number of mopeds, so there should be a supply of aftermarket ones around.